@WhiteBronze392 Build

[Ted392]

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Thank you, appreciate the collaboration we’ve had over past week or so. Had more time to check everything out today and I’m REALLY happy with everything. Regaining the lost height from the mods plus the little extra beyond stock lift feels just perfect for me and my needs. @Bobo57 I would say it’s smoother than stock, but I think the better adjective is planted. Hit a couple speed bumps while out today and it just absorbs them like they’re nothing. It feels ready to conquer anything (for this slightly modified stock lift and 35” tires), and there’s a significant improvement with the body roll.


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@Jgc650i as I installed the Clayton performance coils recently, I started looking into shocks upgrade. And @@WhiteBronze392 suggested the Fox 2.5 DSC that you guys have been running. I wanted to get your feedback too, did you do anything else to accommodate the new shocks with the Clayton coils? Any issues so far or the shocks are too long when fully extended? Thanks!

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

View attachment 34631

So along these lines since I have been back I have been doing some future build comparisons.
I saw many Jeeps and 392’s on 40’s and 42’s some done the right way and some stock lifted to high heaven and nothing else. One 392 parked beside me on the beach. All mostly stock but metal cloak 4.5”lift and 40” MT. This isn’t even considering the all lights & sound system jeeps on 42x30’s

To do 40’s right with my current setup I am increasingly drawn to 74 weld portals. My goal now as it has always been (maybe changed a little) is capability to do whatever I want it to do without breaking shit easily.

Per my math suspension wise I am either going to stay 38’s probably an artec front truss, RCV axles, fox bumps and that’s it. Approximately $4k plus install

To go to 40’s I have two options (well maybe 3)
Option 1 - 74weld portals, PSC steering, RCV front Axles, artec truss, fox bumps 8 lug wheels and 40’s (obviously) and 4:10 gear due to the portals 1.22 reduction. Approximately $36k plus install

Option 2- Currie Platinums, drive shafts, PSC steering, fox bumps air locker setup, 8 lug wheels, 40’s(again obviously) approximately $46k plus install and that’s if I don’t decide I need coil overs.

Option 3 would be Genright EXS (if I win the lottery ) approximately $65k plus install

Just a mind dump don’t pay me any attention lol. I mean looks wise it is crazy how much difference 38-40s makes but does it make that much difference off-road to add 30lbs per corner and all of the needed mods to support them for 1”? Asking for a friend .

 

[Ted392]

Those a very well laid out build ideas. For me, it really boils down to money and use. I'm not a true rock crawler but I, like many here go on some mountain trails that require a bit more than stock suspension. The 392 stock is pretty good, but, if you want to tackle more difficult trails, then lift and tires 37" or greater.

My conundrum is that I really like my 392 as I have it with the exception 35" tires. It's the reason that I'd rather get another and build it in the direction you're thinking (so I can keep driving mine while wrenching on the build). Your portal build would be on my list first. I'd go 40" tires.
So 2nd used 392 (65-75k), plus build (36k). If I find a Copart 392 that I like, might be cheaper,,,might.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

They have been on my list for a year lol

The thing that put me off was the 8 week waiting period but I heard that is is likely quicker. I ordered mine 10 days ago and received shipping label today. It is only the cargo plate so maybe that is why it is so quick.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

So along these lines since I have been back I have been doing some future build comparisons.
I saw many Jeeps and 392’s on 40’s and 42’s some done the right way and some stock lifted to high heaven and nothing else. One 392 parked beside me on the beach. All mostly stock but metal cloak 4.5”lift and 40” MT. This isn’t even considering the all lights & sound system jeeps on 42x30’s

To do 40’s right with my current setup I am increasingly drawn to 74 weld portals. My goal now as it has always been (maybe changed a little) is capability to do whatever I want it to do without breaking shit easily.

Per my math suspension wise I am either going to stay 38’s probably an artec front truss, RCV axles, fox bumps and that’s it. Approximately $4k plus install

To go to 40’s I have two options (well maybe 3)
Option 1 - 74weld portals, PSC steering, RCV front Axles, artec truss, fox bumps 8 lug wheels and 40’s (obviously) and 4:10 gear due to the portals 1.22 reduction. Approximately $36k plus install

Option 2- Currie Platinums, drive shafts, PSC steering, fox bumps air locker setup, 8 lug wheels, 40’s(again obviously) approximately $46k plus install and that’s if I don’t decide I need coil overs.

Option 3 would be Genright EXS (if I win the lottery ) approximately $65k plus install

Just a mind dump don’t pay me any attention lol. I mean looks wise it is crazy how much difference 38-40s makes but does it make that much difference off-road to add 30lbs per corner and all of the needed mods to support them for 1”? Asking for a friend .

The cost to properly build for 40's just isn't something I can justify. That is why my plan is to stay on 37s until they wear out and then go and stay with 38s.

 

[Cali392JL]

So along these lines since I have been back I have been doing some future build comparisons.
I saw many Jeeps and 392’s on 40’s and 42’s some done the right way and some stock lifted to high heaven and nothing else. One 392 parked beside me on the beach. All mostly stock but metal cloak 4.5”lift and 40” MT. This isn’t even considering the all lights & sound system jeeps on 42x30’s

To do 40’s right with my current setup I am increasingly drawn to 74 weld portals. My goal now as it has always been (maybe changed a little) is capability to do whatever I want it to do without breaking shit easily.

Per my math suspension wise I am either going to stay 38’s probably an artec front truss, RCV axles, fox bumps and that’s it. Approximately $4k plus install

To go to 40’s I have two options (well maybe 3)
Option 1 - 74weld portals, PSC steering, RCV front Axles, artec truss, fox bumps 8 lug wheels and 40’s (obviously) and 4:10 gear due to the portals 1.22 reduction. Approximately $36k plus install

Option 2- Currie Platinums, drive shafts, PSC steering, fox bumps air locker setup, 8 lug wheels, 40’s(again obviously) approximately $46k plus install and that’s if I don’t decide I need coil overs.

Option 3 would be Genright EXS (if I win the lottery ) approximately $65k plus install

Just a mind dump don’t pay me any attention lol. I mean looks wise it is crazy how much difference 38-40s makes but does it make that much difference off-road to add 30lbs per corner and all of the needed mods to support them for 1”? Asking for a friend .

Looking at the rest of your build thread, it would seem like you really only have one option… Genright EXS. You're a top shelf guy.

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

Those a very well laid out build ideas. For me, it really boils down to money and use. I'm not a true rock crawler but I, like many here go on some mountain trails that require a bit more than stock suspension. The 392 stock is pretty good, but, if you want to tackle more difficult trails, then lift and tires 37" or greater.

My conundrum is that I really like my 392 as I have it with the exception 35" tires. It's the reason that I'd rather get another and build it in the direction you're thinking (so I can keep driving mine while wrenching on the build). Your portal build would be on my list first. I'd go 40" tires.
So 2nd used 392 (65-75k), plus build (36k). If I find a Copart 392 that I like, might be cheaper,,,might.

Those a very well laid out build ideas. For me, it really boils down to money and use. I'm not a true rock crawler but I, like many here go on some mountain trails that require a bit more than stock suspension. The 392 stock is pretty good, but, if you want to tackle more difficult trails, then lift and tires 37" or greater.

My conundrum is that I really like my 392 as I have it with the exception 35" tires. It's the reason that I'd rather get another and build it in the direction you're thinking (so I can keep driving mine while wrenching on the build). Your portal build would be on my list first. I'd go 40" tires.
So 2nd used 392 (65-75k), plus build (36k). If I find a Copart 392 that I like, might be cheaper,,,might.

Thank you. I totally understand and like mine as well. Not a rock crawler either but would like to go out west some and not be worried about lane 4 at JB obstacle course lol. Saw a guy that went through it laying under his at a gas station after with fluid pouring out after. And most of those who attempted the rock and storm drain gardens had hard time.

Believe it or not mine as it is now rides and drives better than stock and I haven’t found any negatives in comparison TBH . The 3 hour trip over to JB was smooth, well jeep smooth lol.

I as well like the portals not just for cost but keeping all else the same basically. I’ve watched a lot of their videos and can’t really see a down side. I could do and want to do the other items (RCV, fox bumps, artec truss) on the 38’s and if I decided 40’s all would carryover and just need the portals, gears, hydro, tires and wheels and a much taller garage

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

Looking at the rest of your build thread, it would seem like you really only have one option… Genright EXS. You're a top shelf guy.

With a well drink wallet

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

The cost to properly build for 40's just isn't something I can justify. That is why my plan is to stay on 37s until they wear out and then go and stay with 38s.

That’s what I am trying to process as well. I haven’t figured out in my little brain how 1” of tire (essentially top part doesn’t count) is worth $40-50k and all of the stuff that goes with it.

 

[Ted392]

With a well drink wallet

Back to the money printing press we all go! Lol

 

[ParadigmDawg]

That’s what I am trying to process as well. I haven’t figured out in my little brain how 1” of tire (essentially top part doesn’t count) is worth $40-50k and all of the stuff that goes with it.

Yep, especially considering that 37s will do about anything.

 

[Jgc650i]

@Jgc650i as I installed the Clayton performance coils recently, I started looking into shocks upgrade. And @@WhiteBronze392 suggested the Fox 2.5 DSC that you guys have been running. I wanted to get your feedback too, did you do anything else to accommodate the new shocks with the Clayton coils? Any issues so far or the shocks are too long when fully extended? Thanks!

Hey F-n-F! I’m biased of course, but IMO you can’t go wrong with the Fox DSC, I’ve been really happy with them. I did swap out both the front LCAs and the End Links all around with the parts from the Mopar 2” lift kit. They are just slightly longer. The LCAs put my caster dead on at 6º. I think the stock XR end links would probably be ok but I wanted just a little more comfort for inversion prevention with the longer shock travel and the lift kit ones felt like perfect option. Hope that helps!

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Hey F-n-F! I’m biased of course, but IMO you can’t go wrong with the Fox DSC, I’ve been really happy with them. I did swap out both the front LCAs and the End Links all around with the parts from the Mopar 2” lift kit. They are just slightly longer. The LCAs put my caster dead on at 6º. I think the stock XR end links would probably be ok but I wanted just a little more comfort for inversion prevention with the longer shock travel and the lift kit ones felt like perfect option. Hope that helps!

Thanks a lot for the feedback! I already had the LCAs from Mopar 2” lift kit. The longer end links do sound like a good idea to match the new shocks.

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

Finally got around to relocating the Fox reservoirs today. I never liked them in the other location after I cut the frame to install the GR bumper as they stuck down below the bumper a bit. If I had it to do over I would have just ordered rears for the front in the same length where the reservoir is attached to the shock body as I have seen someone else do. With the hose and staying out of the way of the sway bar as well as the tire at full stuff doesn’t leave a lot of options.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Finally got around to relocating the Fox reservoirs today. I never liked them in the other location after I cut the frame to install the GR bumper as they stuck down below the bumper a bit. If I had it to do over I would have just ordered rears for the front in the same length where the reservoir is attached to the shock body as I have seen someone else do. With the hose and staying out of the way of the sway bar as well as the tire at full stuff doesn’t leave a lot of options. View attachment 34955

This reminds me the discussion at https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/fox-dsc-rears-in-front.99231/

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

This reminds me the discussion at https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/fox-dsc-rears-in-front.99231/

Haha that “discussion” is crazy. I think that pic is from a video I was referring to of a 392 lift where they swapped them. If it is they discuss they did it for hose issues and had nothing to do with travel. You Could always order the same length and let accutune know the plan for valving of any different. I am not sure there would be.

Edit finally read far enough to see someone posted the original vid and clarified

 

[Earl 392]

Finally got around to relocating the Fox reservoirs today. I never liked them in the other location after I cut the frame to install the GR bumper as they stuck down below the bumper a bit. If I had it to do over I would have just ordered rears for the front in the same length where the reservoir is attached to the shock body as I have seen someone else do. With the hose and staying out of the way of the sway bar as well as the tire at full stuff doesn’t leave a lot of options. View attachment 34955

Off topic it appears you have a Steersmart track bar brace can I ask does it rub coil spring or coil isolation pad or even steel mount on the axel at full stuff? Mine just touches 1st and second coil and metal cloaks isolation pad as well as spring perch. Axel moves forward just enough as control arms straighten within their radius. I only had 1 bump stop so I added a second and have not tried it out yet but a friend has same 3 1/2 lift with steersmart bracket and 3 MC bump stops and also rubs. His is a diesel with hydraulic bumpers .Thanks hi

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

Off topic it appears you have a Steersmart track bar brace can I ask does it rub coil spring or coil isolation pad or even steel mount on the axel at full stuff? Mine just touches 1st and second coil and metal cloaks isolation pad as well as spring perch. Axel moves forward just enough as control arms straighten within their radius. I only had 1 bump stop so I added a second and have not tried it out yet but a friend has same 3 1/2 lift with steersmart bracket and 3 MC bump stops and also rubs. His is a diesel with hydraulic bumpers .Thanks hi

Mine is Rusty’s track bar brace and it doesn’t rub

 

[Earl 392]

Mine is Rusty’s track bar brace and it doesn’t rub

Thank you