Excaliburitto
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- #981
The kit includes a cutoff switch.
@WhiteBronze392 Build
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@tropicthunder392
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- #982
That’s a good idea. I researched these a lot before
Sweet did not see that thanks
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@tropicthunder392
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- #983
That’s a good idea. I researched these a lot before and one thing that scared me about the install was breaking a body bolt. I wish they would too as I had Amps on my Raptor that I installed myself and luckily they were issue free for 3 years but a friend had them on his 392 when he bought it and they had a mind of their own and he removed them.
I knew if I went with power steps on my Jeep they would be RSE for many obvious reasons but decided to stay away from adding complexity but I am rethinking that now for convenience
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Excaliburitto
Well-known member
Use the cutoff switch to turn them off if they ever misbehave. Cycling them on/off will also reset them in the retracted condition. I had to do that when one magnet on the rear passenger door kept them open.
Use that switch also when off road where the steps might fit a boulder or something.
Use that switch also when off road where the steps might fit a boulder or something.
guruman
Well-known member
- Nov 16, 2022
- 1,568
- 3,108
- Current Rides
- 2023 Rubicon 392 20th Anniversary Edition, 1996 M1078 rolling fortress
Any magnet will do. I swapped the ones that came with it for some larger, more powerful ones to help with any possible misalignment.Thank You for the feedback back. I was looking to see if I could figure out how I can tie them to them to a AUX switch to turn them off when off roadthe doors off kit may be the option but I never have doors off , only half doors so would need another set of magnets. The place where the half door switch is shown to mount is occupied by my ARB IAT fittings.
I have see a few running around here and at jeep beach with them down while driving lol.
Folks driving around doorless with the steps down, either didn't buy the doors off kit, or don't know how to work it. It's probably operator error, and not the steps.
@WhiteBronze392
@tropicthunder392
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- #986
probably soameldorf
Well-known member
20pcs 20x2mm Magnetic Magnet 20mmx2mm Permanent Magnets disc 20x2mm Round Magnet Sheet 20 * 2 Fridge, Office, Whiteboard for Crafts,Office, Kitchen: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
20pcs 20x2mm Magnetic Magnet 20mmx2mm Permanent Magnets disc 20x2mm Round Magnet Sheet 20 * 2 Fridge, Office, Whiteboard for Crafts,Office, Kitchen: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
Used these on my normal and half doors. Work fine. Don't think they are any bigger like user above mentions. Could use a 25 or 30mm I suppose.
HMB392
Well-known member
I finally have front inner fenders again! After seeing the Nemesis/Rebel ones made for the Recon kit at jeep beach I decided to just go with them instead of trying to hack up and probably destroy the AAL. These are really nice and install was not bad at all. I believe I like them as well as or more than the AAL. They don’t have the quick release connectors but can be removed with 5 easily accessible 4mm Allen 1/4 20s. I went ahead and ordered rears while I was at it because I knew it would bother me if they didn’t match
My buddy ordered some AAL on my recommendation and he finally got them after 3 months! The nemesis are a good alternative if you dont wanna wait
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What are your impressions of the Rebel coil conversion and RPM mid length control arm combination? It looks great and I would imagine you picked up a good deal of articulation with the 12" travel shocks. How about ride, handling and noise compared to your previous set up? Anything you'd do differently or plan to change?
@WhiteBronze392
@tropicthunder392
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- #989
Thank you very much! I am really happy with how it has turned out. So far I really like it on road but can’t wait to test it out off road. It definitely has a lot more articulation which I can tell from the CTI before my issue and the amount of droop on the lift is crazy . I still need to get it to the shop and do some cutting and testing with his fork lift.
On road it feels more race car like (which I like but that’s subjective) the ride is not harsh but it’s definitely stiffer than my previous setup. The only time I notice coilover noise is speed bumps. It has a little more lean on sharp turns due to the Antirocks but you get used to it pretty quickly. This probably also has to do with the added height and 40’s as well
The quality and fit of all of the kit is great for sure and I am glad I went with the Rebel kit.
As far as what I would do differently maybe just do it from the start and save some $$ lol. I was looking at this kit before my 392 arrived but was still in a different mindset at the time of how far I wanted to go with it. I also did not have a shop that I would trust to do it anywhere near where I lived at the time and it was beyond what I felt comfortable doing myself on Jack stands in the garage. The journey of mod levels is part of the fun I believe anyway though.
I have questioned whether I should have just skipped the RPM mid arms and gone with the 3/4 link setup and coilovers at the same time but I don’t think it’s needed for me TBH
Since I have swapped drive shafts and the vibration seems to be gone but I am still going to do something to get caster back (FAD) until axle swap I think. It still cruises nicely at 80 on the interstate.
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HMB392
Well-known member
Nice, seems like a great way to go for the JL's. Good news that the driveshafts have addressed the vibration. I've been able to run a 3.5" Game changer without vibration with Tom Woods shafts but it looks like you're sitting a good bit higher. That level of performance while avoiding the cost and installation complexity of a long arm conversion is huge!
@WhiteBronze392
@tropicthunder392
- Thread starter
- #991
I currently have the coilovers adjusted to be as low as possible. It’s up about 4 inches from where it was which was already up 2-2.5 from stock I believe but it looks right IMHO and wouldn’t want it lower.
The vibration is addressed with about 4 degrees of caster which is a bit on the quick turning side for me lol. I am going to start adjusting up bit by bit to find the threshold but at this height adding a FAD with forced 2WD or axle swap designed for it is needed. That’s nothing that’s a problem with the coilovers or arms however.
Overall I am very satisfied with how it’s turned out both looks and performance wise.
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HMB392
Well-known member
Look forward to hearing your trail impressions but I think you've landed on the right formula. Axles would be the ideal next step for sure.
I'm thinking PSC hydro, axles and 40's next but would consider stretching to add the Rebel coil conversion at the same time to avoid future rework and even more expense. Finding the right mix of capability and day to day drivability is a delicate balance that I've been struggling with as well and I really want to minimize rework. I'd prefer to stop there and avoid an Atlas and long arm conversion if I can but I've seen differing points of view. Man, the next step up the ladder is a doozy!
I'm thinking PSC hydro, axles and 40's next but would consider stretching to add the Rebel coil conversion at the same time to avoid future rework and even more expense. Finding the right mix of capability and day to day drivability is a delicate balance that I've been struggling with as well and I really want to minimize rework. I'd prefer to stop there and avoid an Atlas and long arm conversion if I can but I've seen differing points of view. Man, the next step up the ladder is a doozy!
@WhiteBronze392
@tropicthunder392
- Thread starter
- #993
LOL that’s for sure! When it’s time I will do the Sport TCASE swap I believe. I have been afraid each step it was going to go over the edge of not being fun to drive it on the road but so far so good. I don’t think axles will change that could be wrong but don’t see why it would. I would say probably make it better if anything. I definitely believe 4.88 is the right gear for 40s and street ability
@WhiteBronze392
@tropicthunder392
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- #994
When I removed the Genright fenders the backing plate that covers the opening and holds the blinker/marker light had rubbed all of the paint off of the area of the grill it covered. I touched it up a bit temporarily but figured it was a good time to swap to the 2024 grill from distinction applied.
As others have mentioned it was an easy swap. I did have to remove the winch power pack on top to do it (5 torx and 3 bolts) as there was no way I was removing the winch. Clearance was still really close with how far back the Genright bumper pushes the winch. Also there is apparently no planned route for the camera cable so. Few small holes drilled and some zip to the rescue.
As others have mentioned it was an easy swap. I did have to remove the winch power pack on top to do it (5 torx and 3 bolts) as there was no way I was removing the winch. Clearance was still really close with how far back the Genright bumper pushes the winch. Also there is apparently no planned route for the camera cable so. Few small holes drilled and some zip to the rescue.
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@WhiteBronze392
@tropicthunder392
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- #995
Is there any need to put PPF or something on the top (body) of the steps just under the doors or is the finish tough enough to hold up to what looks to be where my kids feet will go lol
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The finish of the steps is tough enough, I'd be surprised if your little ones could damage it. Also, it's not 100% smooth, so getting PPF to stick to the surface would probably be a challenge. As soon as dust/dirt finds its way underneath, it would at best look horrible, but mostly likely it would start to lift.
The position of the drop step is pretty perfect though - it's really easy/natural to step off the drop step right into the cab.
That said, there have been a handful of times I've stood on the top of the step as well, like to clean the windshield, and I haven't noticed any wear from doing so.
The position of the drop step is pretty perfect though - it's really easy/natural to step off the drop step right into the cab.
That said, there have been a handful of times I've stood on the top of the step as well, like to clean the windshield, and I haven't noticed any wear from doing so.
@WhiteBronze392
@tropicthunder392
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- #997
Awesome thank you!
@WhiteBronze392
@tropicthunder392
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- #998
I finished install of the RSE step sliders with lights and armor today (did wiring yesterday evening) took me a while for sure as this is not a quick install lol. I didn’t have any body bolt issues thank goodness I even bought a bolt heater but didn’t need to use it. I just worked them back and forth. I used the bench grinder to take off the washer threads easily.
I like the minimal tucked in look of the rails better but this was a necessity at least for now for my sanity with the kids getting in and out. I wish they were a little shorter in front instead of extending past the flare but overall they look and work great and the kids love them!
Thanks again Doetsch Off-road @jeepguru for the great pricing and fast shipping !
I like the minimal tucked in look of the rails better but this was a necessity at least for now for my sanity with the kids getting in and out. I wish they were a little shorter in front instead of extending past the flare but overall they look and work great and the kids love them!
Thanks again Doetsch Off-road @jeepguru for the great pricing and fast shipping !
@WhiteBronze392
@tropicthunder392
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- #999
Just need to add headlights! Please let me know ideas!
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@WhiteBronze392
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- #1,000
I Posted elsewhere but hmmm
Just came across these posts on Facebook 392 forum. I ask what year then then saw the answer 24-25 will ask why was beefed up. Also doesn’t seem these guys know who they are talking with
would like to know more about what was beefed up and got my answer
Just came across these posts on Facebook 392 forum. I ask what year then then saw the answer 24-25 will ask why was beefed up. Also doesn’t seem these guys know who they are talking with
would like to know more about what was beefed up and got my answer
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