Ted392 Mods

Will do. Can't wait. But I'm sure I'll need new ball joints, tie rod and drag link from the wear. Tempted to do that work now.
A friend of mine, and I both just recently proactively replaced our ball joints. I put in the metal cloak joints, and he put in the Dynatrac joints. Both are serviceable in place, but I like the metal cloak design a little better as it actually shares the load on both the top and the bottom ball joint.
 
A friend of mine, and I both just recently proactively replaced our ball joints. I put in the metal cloak joints, and he put in the Dynatrac joints. Both are serviceable in place, but I like the metal cloak design a little better as it actually shares the load on both the top and the bottom ball joint.
Thank you for the info. I'll look into MC besides Dynatrac.
 
What about tie rod and drag link?
They said they were surprised that mine lasted 4,000 miles on 37s which it made it a little over 4,000. They said to always do all 3 bars and SS at the same time but I already had a Teraflex track bar from my build.
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They said they were surprised that mine lasted 4,000 miles on 37s which it made it a little over 4,000. They said to always do all 3 bars and SS at the same time but I already had a Teraflex track bar from my build.View attachment 35829
I've thinking of changing the tie rod and drag link. Drag link seems to be worn already. My track bar and ss are new-ish.
 
Can you make me one of the brackets?
Sure, I'll see what I can do. Home depot brackets and hardware.
I'd rather design one and get them fabbed up. Electrical by others...

Tight fit in front of that ps pump, plus aal bracket.
 
Sure, I'll see what I can do. Home depot brackets and hardware.
I'd rather design one and get them fabbed up. Electrical by others...

Tight fit in front of that ps pump, plus aal bracket.
Awesome and thanks. I am surprisingly bad at building stuff but have decent mechanical skills. Go figure.
 
Both are Steersmarts yedi xd and new clamp for ss.

I like their products.
 
So from learning from what @WhiteBronze382 did, with switching AALs metric nutserts and hardware to 1/4-20. I switchout them out to stainless steel. Best part is no drilling the tub fender holes bigger (at least so far for the rears) and keeping the paint intact. Also, hex head bolts are much nicer than the torx to start threading with fingers. Anyway, rears are almost done.

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I finished the rears. The 1/4-20 ss hardware is so much better than the aal metric hardware.

I put the rear plastic closeout on and my mudflaps (not pictured) Once tires are mounted, I'll see if I have to remove them for clearance. Don't know what to do yet about covering the front of the rears plastic bracket.
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The front fenders are unnecessarily complex/bulky. So far I only removed the liner and have bolted one on. I have a feeling I'll be gutting them down one more level after I set tires on for testing. Rears are nice and simple.
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The front fenders are unnecessarily complex/bulky. So far I only removed the liner and have bolted one on. I have a feeling I'll be gutting them down one more level after I set tires on for testing. Rears are nice and simple.
View attachment 35966
I know right? When I was doing that I was thinking the same. So many pieces lol
 
I know right? When I was doing that I was thinking the same. So many pieces lol
I can see that they have to handle the air-scouping effect, but this is ridiculous.

My Teraflex tire carrier arrived as did my steer smarts stuff. I'm tapped out for the month. $$$$$$$$
 

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