Sport Tcase Swap

[Sasquatchilly]

So after work yesterday I replaced the DTCM or at least what I thought was the DTCM. It was a module behind the passenger side rear pilar where the subwoofer housing is. My dash did not change to show 2H, 4H, N, 4L.. so either that was not the DCTM that I changed or it was the incorrect DTCM. On another note I suck at using the buttons on the wheel for making any changes with the Tazer & No Limitz. Also I did not put the skidplate assembly back on yet either, I figured It would be easier to watch for any leaks without it on, to make sure the sealant I used on the Tcase worked. Any suggestions or additional information would be greatly appreciated.

 

[OldVetteGuy]

So after work yesterday I replaced the DTCM or at least what I thought was the DTCM. It was a module behind the passenger side rear pilar where the subwoofer housing is. My dash did not change to show 2H, 4H, N, 4L.. so either that was not the DCTM that I changed or it was the incorrect DTCM. On another note I suck at using the buttons on the wheel for making any changes with the Tazer & No Limitz. Also I did not put the skidplate assembly back on yet either, I figured It would be easier to watch for any leaks without it on, to make sure the sealant I used on the Tcase worked. Any suggestions or additional information would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like a DCTM issue, maybe EbyCreek and chime in on this he has lots of experience with this subject.

It might be too late for you but for the next person who take this on consider the following sealant when putting the 2 halves back together again. I have used this stuff for years on transfer cases, ifs diffs an a whole bunch of other application. It is far superior to silicone and if your a little heavy handed it very forgiving.

 

[ameldorf]

I’d make sure you made the correct changes w/Tazer before giving up on DTCM.

 

[Sasquatchilly]

Sounds like a DCTM issue, maybe EbyCreek and chime in on this he has lots of experience with this subject.

It might be too late for you but for the next person who take this on consider the following sealant when putting the 2 halves back together again. I have used this stuff for years on transfer cases, ifs diffs an a whole bunch of other application. It is far superior to silicone and if your a little heavy handed it very forgiving.
View attachment 54705

I know they make great products , used the permatex form a gasket listed specifically for transfer cases, I
Spead a thin layer of it on the surface it has not leaked so far. The DTCM I put in was from RedLine the same company that sold me the doner Transfer case. I am sure with all the people on here it will get figured out. At least I am not bunny hopping around parking lots and tight corners anymore. 2H works great on this jeep just as long as you're light on the go pedal.

 

[Sasquatchilly]

I’d make sure you made the correct changes w/Tazer before giving up on DTCM.

DTCM was a used one from Redline the salvage company I got the transfer case from. I think I'm going to have to buy a new one from the stealership. The Dashboard should have shown 2H, 4H, N 4L. It still shows 4auto, 4part time, N ans 4L

 

[ag4ever]

I don’t understand the bunny hopping around at slow speeds. The clutches should be open unless the wheel speed sensor detect slip and high throttle input. Otherwise it should be in 2WD mode. The application of the clutches is automated and not applied all the time.

From what I have read (no first hand knowledge) you should have a DTCM from a rubicon 3.6 to make it function properly.

 

[Sasquatchilly]

I don’t understand the bunny hopping around at slow speeds. The clutches should be open unless the wheel speed sensor detect slip and high throttle input. Otherwise it should be in 2WD mode. The application of the clutches is automated and not applied all the time.

From what I have read (no first hand knowledge) you should have a DTCM from a rubicon 3.6 to make it function properly.

Yes you are correct about the operation of a properly working Tcase it should only operate the clutches to send power to the front when needed. I bought the vehicle used and noticed the front tires would squeal a little when in tight places like parking lots. I got a tazer to force rear wheel drive and that worked for a little while. Then it just quit working and by then I had started looking online and seeing that there were many others who have experienced problems with this particular system too. I really didn't want to go the Atlas route and patching my prone to failure Tcase seemed pointless so I decided I would rather at least try this hybrid transfer case idea first before going all in on an Atlas. Now that I have made my hybrid transfer case that so far works like butter, I need to address the issue of the dashboard indicating 4H auto, 4H part time, N, and 4L. When I purchased the donor transfer case I purchased what was supposed to be a DTCM from a 3.6L v6 jeep that was all the information available at that time from the salvage company selling these things to me. I am not 100% certain of that. And it may not even be in good working order as it was from a wrecked vehicle. I Think at this point I will order a new one from the local dealership.

 

[EBYCREEK]

Take a look at these Tazer supplement instructions to program your new DTCM

 

[Un4seen4]

there is a 4xe case for sale local to me for cheep, I wonder if one could do the same swap but with it, and have all drive modes?

 

[Sasquatchilly]

there is a 4xe case for sale local to me for cheep, I wonder if one could do the same swap but with it, and have all drive modes?

 

[Sasquatchilly]

I don't know if they are compatible or not. Even if the outer case housing would bolt up the shifting plate inside would have an extra place on it for the extra shift position so it may or may not work. First youd want to check the case bolt patern and measurements from the centerline where its split to the outer edge of the flanges. Hope that helps.

 

[EBYCREEK]

I don't know if they are compatible or not. Even if the outer case housing would bolt up the shifting plate inside would have an extra place on it for the extra shift position so it may or may not work. First youd want to check the case bolt patern and measurements from the centerline where its split to the outer edge of the flanges. Hope that helps.

Did you ever get 2H to display?

 

[Sasquatchilly]

Did you ever get 2H to display?

No not yet I have to get off work early enough to go to the stealership for a new DTCM

 

[EBYCREEK]

Did you try following the supplement instructions I sent you? I thought you had purchased a used DTCM?

 

[Sasquatchilly]

Did you try following the supplement instructions I sent you? I thought you had purchased a used DTCM?

Yes and yes, I don't think my used DTCM. is any good or it might be from the wrong jeep. It was from an online salvage company.

 

[ag4ever]

I believe the 4xe case is the same as the 392. The only difference is the ability to force the clutches in the 4xe case unlocked and the FAD on the axle.

Both are clutch based cases, so you still have the negatives of the clutches failing. The benefit of the 2H / 4H / 4L case is the omission of the clutches on the 4H / 4L modes.

I drove my 4xe in full time 4WD 99% of the time. Had 37,000 miles on it when I sold it after having it for 38 months. No transfer case issues. Just hybrid drivetrain issues.

 

[Cbrett]

For all of you who are watching this thread YES this swap is real and it can be done without removing the front half of the Tcase from the transmission. I used 1/4" 3/8" and 3/4" drive ratchets with a bunch of assorted extentions and universal swivels for each of them. Fortunately you only need a deep and a shallow 10mm socket 1/4" drive for the 18 bolts holding the halves together. You need a torx size 50 bit 3/8 drive to remove the bolts from the flanges of the Tcase and the rear end and a 15mm box end wrench to remove the front drive shaft from the front differential. The 3/4 drive with a 10" extension and a 32mm socket is to remove the front drive shaft flange from the Tcase, you need the rear drivshaft inplace, the Tcase in 4Wheel drive and the Ebrake set to get that 32mm nut off. The flange came off really easy the puller I used was overkill but it worked. For me this job was more difficult than many of you will find it to be. I did it without the use of a lift on flat ground without raising the vehicle off the pavement. I only removed the skid plate assembly with an 18mm socket. I did not take off the exhaust or the crossmember under the Tcase. And remember those 3 detent balls ? Yeah do yourself a favor and wrap a strap or in my case big tie wrap around the fork assembly as it will fall apart and make you have to reassemble it all over again. I included a picture of the half slid into place with the tie wrap holding it together then after it is slid together I removed the tie wrap and bolted the halves together. Feel free to ask any questions I will do my best to answer them. And by the way it was a huge relief to drive it in 2 high and be able to go in tight circles both directions with no front tire scrub or bunny hopping at all !!! Tomorrow after work I will replace the skidplate assembly and install the new DTCM and hopefully get rid of any trouble codes with the Tazer.

Thank you so much for this. I am currently trying to locate the sport tcase and dtcm to do this swap. This info helps. May have questions.

 

[Cbrett]

For all of you who are watching this thread YES this swap is real and it can be done without removing the front half of the Tcase from the transmission. I used 1/4" 3/8" and 3/4" drive ratchets with a bunch of assorted extentions and universal swivels for each of them. Fortunately you only need a deep and a shallow 10mm socket 1/4" drive for the 18 bolts holding the halves together. You need a torx size 50 bit 3/8 drive to remove the bolts from the flanges of the Tcase and the rear end and a 15mm box end wrench to remove the front drive shaft from the front differential. The 3/4 drive with a 10" extension and a 32mm socket is to remove the front drive shaft flange from the Tcase, you need the rear drivshaft inplace, the Tcase in 4Wheel drive and the Ebrake set to get that 32mm nut off. The flange came off really easy the puller I used was overkill but it worked. For me this job was more difficult than many of you will find it to be. I did it without the use of a lift on flat ground without raising the vehicle off the pavement. I only removed the skid plate assembly with an 18mm socket. I did not take off the exhaust or the crossmember under the Tcase. And remember those 3 detent balls ? Yeah do yourself a favor and wrap a strap or in my case big tie wrap around the fork assembly as it will fall apart and make you have to reassemble it all over again. I included a picture of the half slid into place with the tie wrap holding it together then after it is slid together I removed the tie wrap and bolted the halves together. Feel free to ask any questions I will do my best to answer them. And by the way it was a huge relief to drive it in 2 high and be able to go in tight circles both directions with no front tire scrub or bunny hopping at all !!! Tomorrow after work I will replace the skidplate assembly and install the new DTCM and hopefully get rid of any trouble codes with the Tazer.

In pic 6 where the back half is removed. Does everything come out with the rear half. And you swap your 392 gears and chain with the donor gears and put the donor housing with 392 gears and chain back in.

 

[Sasquatchilly]

The 6th picture in the series showing the front half of my 392 Tcase is the parts that remain with the jeep and if you look at the post previous to this series of pictures from under the jeep, you will see a different series of pictures of which the first 3 pictures in that series are of the rear half of my donor Tcase. Those are the donor Tcase parts that will be used along with the donor rear housing. that whole rear half from the donor Tcase is what you will slide right into the rear of the 392 Tcase. Its really that simple. But use something like a big type wrap to hold the parts from slipping out or it can be a booger to get it all put back together properly. I hope this helps. And good luck.

 

[Sasquatchilly]

For all of you who followed this I came home from work today and decided it was time to throw away the leftover parts and housings from doing this hybrid swap. But my curiosity made me decide to look into what caused my Tcase problems in the first place. So as I stated previously my Jeep was stuck in 4 high it was hard to steer and maneuver especially in tight parking lots. I figured the actuator motor had died, and that is exactly what it was I knew immediately when I took it off the smell of burnt electric motor hit me hard and once it was disassembled I took a couple pictures to share. Anyway my guess is that my Tazer forcing rear wheel drive all the time may have played a part in its demise.