Sport Tcase Swap

For all of you who followed this I came home from work today and decided it was time to throw away the leftover parts and housings from doing this hybrid swap. But my curiosity made me decide to look into what caused my Tcase problems in the first place. So as I stated previously my Jeep was stuck in 4 high it was hard to steer and maneuver especially in tight parking lots. I figured the actuator motor had died, and that is exactly what it was I knew immediately when I took it off the smell of burnt electric motor hit me hard and once it was disassembled I took a couple pictures to share. Anyway my guess is that my Tazer forcing rear wheel drive all the time may have played a part in its demise.
Lots of these died without a Tazer for sure. I have over 30k miles of RWD on mine so far. This is the first one I've heard of that died using RWD.

Now that you've taken it apart, how hard do you think it would be to swap the actuator? I bought a spare in case mine ever gave up.
 
In pic 6 where the back half is removed. Does everything come out with the rear half. And you swap your 392 gears and chain with the donor gears and put the donor housing with 392 gears and chain back

Lots of these died without a Tazer for sure. I have over 30k miles of RWD on mine so far. This is the first one I've heard of that died using RWD.

Now that you've taken it apart, how hard do you think it would be to swap the actuator? I bought a spare in case mine ever gave up.
Super easy peasy no problem at all , unplug it unbolt the 3 long bolts not the short allen screws and remove the old one bolt on the new one and plug it in Vala done. 10 minutes tops.
 
Super easy peasy no problem at all , unplug it unbolt the 3 long bolts not the short allen screws and remove the old one bolt on the new one and plug it in Vala done. 10 minutes tops.
I am sure there is a calibration or steps that must be done to insure the new actuator motor knows where or what position it is in in relation to the Clutches. But physically changing it would be a 10 minute job.
 
I just did this conversion. I thought the mechanical was easy even for a 80yr geezer. Some of the explanations seemed vague to me. What you need to do is leave your stock case attached to the transmission. Remove the rear half and all the internals, remove the rear half of a sport case, put all of the internals of the sport case into the front half of the stock case and then use the rear half of the sport case. I'm struggling with my dash warnings but I'll find some young kid who can zip thru the Tazer setting in a couple minutes.
 
I just did this conversion. I thought the mechanical was easy even for a 80yr geezer. Some of the explanations seemed vague to me. What you need to do is leave your stock case attached to the transmission. Remove the rear half and all the internals, remove the rear half of a sport case, put all of the internals of the sport case into the front half of the stock case and then use the rear half of the sport case. I'm struggling with my dash warnings but I'll find some young kid who can zip thru the Tazer setting in a couple minutes.
Where did you get the sport case? Don't you also need the sport "control module" to switch out with the 392 one?
 
I got the transfer case from Redline Auto Parts and also a Rubicon control module.
I had to go in and turn off the FAD as it defaulted to on with the new DTCM. This was of course after doing the supplemental Tazer instructions. I would think the settings would be the same as the Atlas transfer case upgrade.
 

Attachments

I had to go in and turn off the FAD as it defaulted to on with the new DTCM. This was of course after doing the supplemental Tazer instructions. I would think the settings would be the same as the Atlas transfer case upgrade.
Thanks I will try that.
 
Just a quick question what would you / anyone reading this think a pre assembled hybrid transfer case front half of a MP3022C married to the back half of a MP1622C be worth before I go through the trouble of building one just to sell.
 
DFW? Then you can swap mine too. I'm in Fort Worth.
If I build one of these for you what would it be worth to you ? Keeping in mind I am buying 2 to make one thrn throwing away the unused halves of the two.
 
If I build one of these for you what would it be worth to you ? Keeping in mind I am buying 2 to make one thrn throwing away the unused halves of the two.
Tyler at Tom's 4x4 sells them for 2k. That includes shipping, control module and core charge. He'll reimburse 500 bucks if you send your core back to him.
 
Tyler at Tom's 4x4 sells them for 2k. That includes shipping, control module and core charge. He'll reimburse 500 bucks if you send your core back to him.
Thank you very much thats the answer I needed 🙏
 
So maybe a tough question to answer but how does this compare to an Atlas? They are 4k so twice as expensive or more, but 2-3k in the grand scheme of things ain’t much especially if you are doing 1-tons, etc. could this keep up with 1-tons, 40’s and 1350’s? Where is it weaker than at atlas, is capability the same, etc. thanks in advance for the help understanding!
 
So maybe a tough question to answer but how does this compare to an Atlas? They are 4k so twice as expensive or more, but 2-3k in the grand scheme of things ain’t much especially if you are doing 1-tons, etc. could this keep up with 1-tons, 40’s and 1350’s? Where is it weaker than at atlas, is capability the same, etc. thanks in advance for the help understanding!
I'm looking into an Atlas for my 2026. It's going to be about $5400 with all the bells and whistles. Plus tax. Gonna be ~$6k here in CA. You will likely want the new rear oil pump option, so you can flat tow it. Most people don't realize that the Atlas was not flat tow ready. People either pulled the driveshafts or had locking hubs on all 4. Not even sure if that includes the shift levers.
 
Good to know. Flat towed my previous v6 rubicon behind class a motorhome for years. Not sure I would want the wear on the 392 so if we got back into motorhomes I would trailer. Still to your point it’s triple the cost of sport t case swap, not double- so how do they compare?
 
Good to know. Flat towed my previous v6 rubicon behind class a motorhome for years. Not sure I would want the wear on the 392 so if we got back into motorhomes I would trailer. Still to your point it’s triple the cost of sport t case swap, not double- so how do they compare?
I ran across this video and they have another where they actually do the installation on a 392. OEM cases are a chain drive, where the Atlas is all gear drive. As for max torque input capabilities, I've read some conflicting stuff on the net. Probably best to call Advance Adapters.


Here's another.
 
Last edited:
Edited:
This is pretty much the upgrade choices. 🤩
1. Good- 21-23, Stock OEM semi float axles and trans case.
1a. Gooder - 24-26, Stock OEM full float rear axles and fixed trans case issues.
2. Better- Upgrade axles to RCV or other brand. Sport trans case in 21-23. Stock trans case in the 24-26.
3. Best - Upgrade to Tons, D60's or other and Atlas trans case.
4. Ultimate - Custom build. No budget.

I fall in the #2 category for type of wheeling and budget. I've got RCV 300m for front & rear and getting the sport case later this year. I still could do 40's with new steering and tire carrier. And, maybe a taller lift or sawzall body modification. 😜😂😲😳🤑🤑🤑
 
Last edited:
I’ll be doing the sport case swap once my jeep shows up. I picked on up a used one onfb marketplace for $150 and can do the work to merge them.If it doesn’t work out I’ll get the Atlas but for the cost the sport case is worth a try.
 
As I understand it for strength and reliability nothing beats the Atlas, gears are 100% better then chains, it's kind of an updated 203 cast iron upgrade, I can tell you I have built a number of 203's, they were absolutely great for strength and nearly impossible to blow up. But they were a bit on the noisy side since they were gear on gear, no chains! The 203 was in the early age of transfer cases, the Atlas is now current tech so you should expect better!

But with that said, there are 2 drawback that seems to be an issue with the Atlas, 1. Noise, 2 Hard to shift!

It would be a great thing if all those with an Atlas would chime in on this an give us their findings! True they are much more expensive the hybrid upgrade but you do get a warranty and a brand new case, so exactly what are the benefits in comparison other then getting rid of the front driveshaft clutch/actuator.
 
Last edited:

Create an account or login to comment

Join now to leave a comment enjoy browsing the site ad-free!

Create account

Create an account on our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top