Huge NoLimitz Feature Release (Beta)

[@WhiteBronze392]

Have you guys having problems tried going back to the previous stable version?

Mine won’t let me do anything now

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Mine won’t let me do anything now

You can't update to the latest beta file?

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

You can't update to the latest beta file?

Nope it doesn’t read the NoLimitz

 

[ParadigmDawg]

Nope it doesn’t read the NoLimitz

Try stomping on it

 

[OldVetteGuy]

Question to those who are removing their NLimitz devices when having problems, are you simply unplugging the 6 pin connector and removing the module or do you have to restore everything to be able to use your Jeep?

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

Question to those who are removing their NLimitz devices when having problems, are you simply unplugging the 6 pin connector and removing the module or do you have to restore everything to be able to use your Jeep?

I unplugged everything and put it back like it was

 

[Ten4Jeep]

Question to those who are removing their NLimitz devices when having problems, are you simply unplugging the 6 pin connector and removing the module or do you have to restore everything to be able to use your Jeep?

Since the connections are CANBus, I would imagine the most efficient method would be to just unplug the module and leave the rest of the wiring in place.

Edit: I traced the CANBus wiring and it is wired in series with the NoLimitz module, not in parallel as I first thought. This means that the module is writing to the CANBus circuit that was plugged into it. So, unplugging the module and then reinserting the white/beige plug back into the Bus-strip should work.

 

[OldVetteGuy]

I would think ZAutomotive would be keeping an eye on the forum, It would be a nice thing to know for sure if you can just get away with unplugging the 6 pin connector from the NoLimitz module or if you in fact need to tear the dash apart again just to disconnect it.

On the 23 and earlier its not a big deal but the 24/5 its a pain, the leather dash topper is a bit fragile and easily damaged.

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

I would think ZAutomotive would be keeping an eye on the forum, It would be a nice thing to know for sure if you can just get away with unplugging the 6 pin connector from the NoLimitz module or if you in fact need to tear the dash apart again just to disconnect it.

On the 23 and earlier its not a big deal but the 23/24 its a pain, the leather dash topper is a bit fragile and easily damaged.

When I just unplugged the NoLimitz module on mine it still wouldn’t start. That’s why I unplugged everything .

 

[OldVetteGuy]

Thanks for the WriteBronze, I think we need ZAutomotive input here, if the NoLimitz can cause a failure that prevents the Jeep from running ZAutomotive needs to come up with an optional bypass plug (if it's even possible) this is something I would immediately buy one for my Jeep's emergency kit. I am hoping they can chime in here!

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

Thanks for the WriteBronze, I think we need ZAutomotive input here, if the NoLimitz can cause a failure that prevents the Jeep from running ZAutomotive needs to come up with an optional bypass plug (if it's even possible) this is something I would immediately buy one for my Jeep's emergency kit. I am hoping they can chime in here!

Yea it’s super quick on my 23 popping off the HVAC panel. But I think it it answered my own question of if someone was trying to steal it removing the glove box to get to the canbus seems to be standard (from pics I’ve seen) if a thief saw and just unplugged the NoLimitz to get by it but looks like they’d have to take the time to do some more replugging lol.

 

[Ten4Jeep]

Question to those who are removing their NLimitz devices when having problems, are you simply unplugging the 6 pin connector and removing the module or do you have to restore everything to be able to use your Jeep?

I traced the CANBus wiring and it is wired in series with the NoLimitz module, not in parallel as I first thought. This means that the NL Module is writing to the CANBus circuit (plug with Beige wire and white stripe) that was unplgged and then plugged into the harness. So, unplugging the module and then reinserting the Beige/White plug back into the Bus-strip will work. It doesn't have to go back into the original port that it was removed from because it is a CANBus strip and all plugs are common. I will test it later and report back.

 

[OldVetteGuy]

Ten4Jeep, good detective work, So with the NLimitZ unplugged the intercepted CANBus signal no longer makes it back because NLimitz is unplugged so the Jeep wont run.

Again, if my thinking is correct a simple female jumper plug that you could plug in would reconnect the intercepted CANBus signal back and all would be ok. This would also be good if your going to the dealership and you want to remove the module before service.

For what its worth I know first hand on the early JL's Stellantis had some real issues with those CANBus connectors in the glove box, my 2018 spend some time in the shop for this. I would not want to have to do alot of plugging/unplugging on that strip, perhaps it's no longer an issue but still for me it's a consideration.

Ten4, looking forward to your next post! I think I might just see if there is a female connector that might be available to use as a NLimitz bypass plug in case it needs to be removed.

 

[Ten4Jeep]

Ten4Jeep, good detective work, So with the NLimitZ unplugged the intercepted CANBus signal no longer makes it back because NLimitz is unplugged so the Jeep wont run.

Again, if my thinking is correct a simple female jumper plug that you could plug in would reconnect the intercepted CANBus signal back and all would be ok. This would also be good if your going to the dealership and you want to remove the module before service.

For what its worth I know first hand on the early JL's Stellantis had some real issues with those CANBus connectors in the glove box, my 2018 spend some time in the shop for this. I would not want to have to do alot of plugging/unplugging on that strip, perhaps it's no longer an issue but still for me it's a consideration.

Ten4, looking forward to your next post! I think I might just see if there is a female connector that might be available to use as a NLimitz bypass plug in case it needs to be removed.

Just tested it. Worked perfectly So, no need to remove the plug on the back of the HVAC panel. Only issue is that when you plug the module back in, it does lose its settings, including defaulting back to the factory security code. A jumper plug with a selector switch would be perfect, instead of having to unplug/plug the CANBus connectors.

 

[OldVetteGuy]

For you NoLimitz Beta testers, can anyone elaborate on when the 24.1.6 might come out of beta, waiting on the update before installing the new NoLimitz module.

Considering some of the issues others are having on the Beta I think I will wait a bit longer.
can't wait to get rid of that MDS crap though and looking forward to the new access system.

 

[BarneyM]

For you NoLimitz Beta testers, can anyone elaborate on when the 24.1.6 might come out of beta, waiting on the update before installing the new NoLimitz module.

Considering some of the issues others are having on the Beta I think I will wait a bit longer.
can't wait to get rid of that MDS crap though and looking forward to the new access system.

Probably never. They are making a lot of changes. That means there will be more beta versions in the near future. Why don't you just install the NoLimitZ with the original (stable) version? It disables the MDS just fine.

 

[OldVetteGuy]

BarneyM, your right, considering I am also installing a Tazer JL Mini at the same time I didn't want any contention or undesireable interaction issues with buttons between the 2 units. This is somewhat of a learning curve for me. Back in the day I used a Jscan with my old Rubicon, it was much easier, but then again it didn't do nearly as much as the Tazer/NoLimitz can.

One thing I can say for those who can't talk to ther NoLimitz devices or cannot re-flash them, after playing around with the device selection of the correct USB/Com port I believe is the issue. Go into the windows Device Manager, opening Ports listing.

Next then plug in the NoLimitz, the red led should flash momentarily on the device and you will see a device indicated as "USB-SERIAL CH430. In the windows Device manger menu under ports. If the device led does not briefly flash when plugged in likely your hardware is bad. Start the programmer, select NoLimitz from the menu, enter the com value in the Device Discovery menu associated with the device and click ok.

The update screen will open, next, select file menu item, and specify the location either a beta or stable version on your PC. Once you select the file the screen will acknowledge the firmware version and load the device and after a second or some show Done.

At this point you should be able to disconect the device from your USB port and install.

For some reason the programmer cannot identify the NoLimitz device like it does the Tazer, hopefully this can be corrected in the next version of the ZAutomotive programmer. Hopefully this might help those who think they might be bricked.

 

[BarneyM]

Next then plug in the NoLimitz, the red led should flash momentarily on the device and you will see a device indicated as "USB-SERIAL CH430. In the windows Device manger menu under ports. If the device led does not briefly flash when plugged in likely your hardware is bad. Start the programmer, select NoLimitz from the menu, enter the com value in the Device Discovery menu associated with the device and click ok.

They make it much harder than it really is. When you get the message that the program cannot find the Serial Port just click 'OK' (don't make any changes). It will take you where you need to be. No need to go into Windows Device Manger.

When I plug my NoLimitZ into my USB port sometimes I get a short red light, sometimes I get no light and other times the red light stays on all the time. Whatever the light is doing the update works for me.

Your results my very.

 

[hardhat]

Got the nolimitz today. Easy install. Worked great until I tried to access tazer. Basically bricked the Jeep. Would not start. Dash lit up like christmas tree. Had to unhook everything and clear codes. Updated tazer to latest firmware and went to the non beta version of no limitz. Still no dice. Cannot access tazer without bricking vehicle. Removed nolimitz completely and all is fine. Emailed Zautomotive. Waiting on reply. I would like to be able to access tazer functions. OK with old firmware for now. Main thing is to disable MDS I suppose.

 

[OldVetteGuy]

Hardhat, please keep us all updated on this, I am now again waiting on any Tazer/NoLimitz install at this point on my new 392.