@WhiteBronze392 Build

Mounted the BD S2 reverse lights this morning in an alternate location. The suggested location was right in line with the exhaust tips and hung down a little far for my liking. There were some existing bumper bolts where I mounted them but had to drill out the hole in the mount to enlarge them. I am going to to fab a pívot of some sorts to swing the trailer plugs down for use or relocate them. I rarely tow and when I do it’s borrowing a utility trailer to go short distances. I have not wired them yet trying to decide if I want them on an auxiliary switch or tied to the reverse lights.
View attachment 19684
I'll have to look into those reverse lights. Good solution I think.
 
I'll have to look into those reverse lights. Good solution I think.
The mounting location they suggest I was not crazy about because they hang down so much but I like them in the location I found just gotta figure out the trailer connection. I will use the lights much more often than the trailer connection.
 
When we got back from monster jam and the strawberry festival all of the SS bolts I ordered had arrived so I mounted the BD squadron A pillar lights real quick. I am actually glad that the supplied bolts were too short as the SS ones from Amazon look much better. Weird that all the supplied hardware was SS except for those. I ran out of time but will install the amber lenses I ordered with them when I am wiring them and the rear S2s later this week.

I finally got to stretch her legs on the Highway a bit for the first time since installing the springs and LCA and all I can say is it’s better in every way. I have got to straighten the 😡 crooked steering wheel that has been that way since taking delivery as it’s really getting my OCD. I may take it for an alignment anyway since installing the LCA. Shouldn’t have changed anything but just to be sure.

Looking forward to getting the shocks and ATS delivered this week to install this weekend. Also have Mopar step sliders & BD SAE amber fogs 🤞being delivered next week. Once I get through this I am going to have to take a break and catch up on the honey do list before starting on the “off road & recovery” phase.
42678CE8-9728-4F6D-A746-FA0C8E2A4F74.webp
61E4D996-8594-43AA-BBF3-58AC5532B7F6.webp
D49A8F34-5E6D-4BDB-AAAA-12FF8620BE08.webp
 
Crooked steering wheel is an easy fix. Assuming it is not pulling one way or the other. On the tie rod there is a clamp bolt that you loosen a bit, then turn the knurled knob. Make sure wheels are pointing straight forward. When you turn the knurled knob, the steering wheel will rotate. It will take a test ride or two to verify!

Oh, and stop spending my money! Lol
 
Crooked steering wheel is an easy fix. Assuming it is not pulling one way or the other. On the tie rod there is a clamp bolt that you loosen a bit, then turn the knurled knob. Make sure wheels are pointing straight forward. When you turn the knurled knob, the steering wheel will rotate. It will take a test ride or two to verify!

Oh, and stop spending my money! Lol
Thanks and no it doesn’t pull either way the wheel is just a bit off to the left. I am sure I will turn it the wrong way and make it worse to start with!

Nope misery loves company 🤣. One of my best friends ordered and took delivery of a Sting gray 392 about two weeks after I did. (We live about 6 hours apart) He’s not on the forum which he should be thankful for lol but I keep sending him pics and links to make him spend too. I told him I’m not in this alone.
 
Last edited:
The mounting location they suggest I was not crazy about because they hang down so much but I like them in the location I found just gotta figure out the trailer connection. I will use the lights much more often than the trailer connection.
If you decide you want the lights to come on every time with the reverse lights you could use this to access the reverse light in the trailering harness without cutting any factory wiring. I used one on my GMC truck for the same purpose. I cut off the five pin flat connector and wire into the reverse lead. Easy to remove and use on a different vehicle and you dont have to cut factory anything.

 
Last edited:
If you decide you want the lights to come on every time with the reverse lights you could use this to access the reverse light in the trailering harness without cursing any factory wiring. I used one on my GMC truck for the same purpose. I cut off the five pin flat connector and wire into the reverse lead. Easy to remove and use on a different vehicle and you dont have to cut factory anything.

Awesome thank you
 
Last edited:
Crooked steering wheel is an easy fix. Assuming it is not pulling one way or the other. On the tie rod there is a clamp bolt that you loosen a bit, then turn the knurled knob. Make sure wheels are pointing straight forward. When you turn the knurled knob, the steering wheel will rotate. It will take a test ride or two to verify!

Oh, and stop spending my money! Lol
Did this tonight and wow yea super easy I think I got it straight but will drive as you said to make sure. Thanks! My sanity restored. Now to remember how turning the knob in or out affects the wheel. Something is wrong you saved me money instead of spending it 😂

Also need to figure out where to tap the LP6 backlight to be on with ignition as to not waste an Aux switch
 
Last edited:
Finished wiring up the BD squadron pro a pillar and s2 reverse lights tonight. Tied the S2 to aux 4 as I decided I would rather be able to turn them on and off when I want instead of only with reverse. I still need to install the amber lenses on the squadrons. I stuck the back lights for the LP6 on aux 2 for now until I search out the wiring for it. Will eventually tie the XL80s to that switch if I decide to add them. Still waiting on the amber SAE fogs to ship which are an easy install after that done with lighting with the exception of reorganization of the mess of wire from the extra 10 ft BD uses on their harnesses that is shoved down by the battery for now. I may shorten everything and solder/heat shrink everything back together like I did with the connections to the switches.

Shocks will be here tomorrow as well as Mopar rock rail steps then ATS Friday. That will be the weekend project.

Then some small stuff grab handles, underground graphics hood, fender and tailgate graphics, and oil change.

Going to take a break until May to start on winch ARB etc as I need to catch up house stuff and the Jeep has emptied every pocket lol.
67A1D024-D666-4288-8565-6DF41A118CE6.jpeg
A76F9B54-0C9A-4E4B-8A7A-D24DA4E4812D.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Installed the Jeep performance rock rails super simple to install. They do help entry had the wife test them out but she still wants the AMPs lol. Also finally received the correct push pins that fit like I wanted to replace the rivets I drilled out to remove the XR flares.
E2D3046D-A780-47AE-AFF0-27196AD2FD16.webp
96FC09D6-9BD8-47FB-ACFB-9A1C3B035CA3.webp


These beauties also arrived! These things seem massive compared to the OEM shocks. Can’t wait to get them installed this weekend.
02445C7C-06CC-4A9F-9080-BE2D7389AB5F.webp
 
Installed the Jeep performance rock rails super simple to install. They do help entry had the wife test them out but she still wants the AMPs lol. Also finally received the correct push pins that fit like I wanted to replace the rivets I drilled out to remove the XR flares.
View attachment 19829View attachment 19830

These beauties also arrived! These things seem massive compared to the OEM shocks. Can’t wait to get them installed this weekend.View attachment 19831
Where did you order your shocks from?
 
So I found out my wife has other plans for us Saturday so I told her I’d be in the garage for a couple of hours tonight. lol. Install went pretty quick once I figured out there was no reason to remove the wheels. I have not gotten to test drive yet or look at any adjustments. I still need to trim the front inner fenders better and check everything at full droop. I know I need to remove the front brake line brackets. Already removed the rear ebrake bracket and relocated the diff vent tube
CB2D42DB-3DBB-4D1C-AB79-0CE9FD51BE5D.jpeg
67CF41A1-2879-42AD-8A27-4EBE244458FF.jpeg
40E0A005-48F2-4ED9-89AA-CB6BB9B52DAF.jpeg
A3DEC9BA-6C20-4089-A52D-E7AEED8C49DC.jpeg


44CEB7E0-6000-4F44-8B54-C64A1895F334.jpeg
 
Last edited:
So I found out my wife has other plans for us Saturday so I told her I’d be in the garage for a couple of hours tonight. lol. Install went pretty quick once I figured out there was no reason to remove the wheels. I have not gotten to test drive yet or look at any adjustments. I still need to trim the front inner fenders better and check everything at full droop. I know I need to remove the front brake line brackets. Already removed the rear ebrake bracket and relocated the diff vent tube View attachment 19862View attachment 19863View attachment 19864View attachment 19865

View attachment 19861


Looks good, nice work. Has me more excited for mine that will arrive tomorrow and be installed mid next week. We’ll have near identical setups with Fox 2.5 Shocks, Clayton Performance Coils, Mopar LCAs, and MetalCloak bump stops.
 
Last edited:
Thank you! and thanks for the inspiration on the Fox Shocks. I can't wait to drive it!
 
Last edited:
I guess if you're not spending $3k on a lift kit alone it makes the Fox 2.5's a little more affordable. But damn $3K on shocks is steep!
 
I guess if you're not spending $3k on a lift kit alone it makes the Fox 2.5's a little more affordable. But damn $3K on shocks is steep!
Agreed but so far I believe it achieves what I was looking for. I am happy with the overall height and especially now that IT IS LEVEL! I will let you know for sure about adding the shocks after some driving this weekend but I suspect it will be (y)

What I found interesting in this link https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-392-25-premium-lift-kit-2018-jl (good video BTW) is the Clayton 2.5" lift gives very close if not the same amount of lift (1") I am at now with just their performance coils. I am going to do some more measurements at each if his locations. He is also running Nitto 37's but on 7.5" wheels vs my 8.5" and RG vs TG but should be very a similar comparison.

Right now I am in just right at $3500 with shocks, bump stops, LCAs and Springs vs the Clayton 2.5" lift $3200 no shocks, no bump stops but with control arms, track bars, and sway bar links. I may reach out to Clayton just to see about $ to buy the control arms, track bars and sway bar links separately if I ever decide they are needed.

Obviously this equation doesn't work if you want to go 3.5" lift or more. I had to keep reminding myself that any advertised lift height a portion (approximately 1.5" it seems) of it gets swallowed up by the already higher stock height of the 392. Of all the company's I spoke with the only difference between a 392 specific lift was stiffer springs for the weight but lift was the same.
 
Last edited:
Agreed but so far I believe it achieves what I was looking for. I am happy with the overall height and especially now that IT IS LEVEL! I will let you know for sure about adding the shocks after some driving this weekend but I suspect it will be (y)

What I found interesting in this link https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-392-25-premium-lift-kit-2018-jl (good video BTW) is the Clayton 2.5" lift gives very close if not the same amount of lift (1") I am at now with just their performance coils. I am going to do some more measurements at each if his locations. He is also running Nitto 37's but on 7.5" wheels vs my 8.5" and RG vs TG but should be very a similar comparison.

Right now I am in just right at $3500 with shocks, bump stops, LCAs and Springs vs the Clayton 2.5" lift $3200 no shocks, no bump stops but with control arms, track bars, and sway bar links. I may reach out to Clayton just to see about $ to buy the control arms, track bars and sway bar links separately if I ever decide they are needed.

Obviously this equation doesn't work if you want to go 3.5" lift or more. I had to keep reminding myself that any advertised lift height a portion (approximately 1.5" it seems) of it gets swallowed up by the already higher stock height of the 392. Of all the company's I spoke with the only difference between a 392 specific lift was stiffer springs for the weight but lift was the same.
Keep up the good work. Suspension wise, I am thinking of following in your footsteps, just not quite sure if the Fox 2.5's with DSC's are needed in my case. Looking forward to your feedback on the different settings and the need for them. I have not heard any complaints about the DSC's but have heard reviews where people find the "right" setting and never change them again.
 

Create an account or login to comment

Join now to leave a comment enjoy browsing the site ad-free!

Create account

Create an account on our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Latest Discussions

Back
Top