What did you do to your Jeep 392 today?

I keep seeing the Clayton springs so curious what the benefits are for a Pavement Princess? Same goes for the steering stabilizer? Are you getting better handling in corners I'd guess? My 392XR seems to ride great for me but I am also coming from a JK that hasn't been stock since 2013.
I come from sports cars and bikes so I always end up upgrading the suspension. Always looking to turn or corner faster. I was lucky enough to attend the Army’s evasive driving course at Fort Leonard Wood where you learn to drive flat out.

My excuse for upgrading this time was adding the winch.

Best bang for your buck on the pavement is the longer MOPAR front LCAs. Cheap and easy to install. More caster. Better cornering.

Stock stab is fine unless you‘re feeling a little too much wobble going fast over bumps like expansion joints.

I’m happy with the 392 XR shocks but feel like I have to upgrade to match the Clayton’s. Debating either Accutune Fox 2.0s or Falcon 3.3s.
 
Started a little project......
 

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Been a busy weekend clearing boxes out of my garage!

Yesterday I got the Rock Slide Engineering step sliders and armor installed, and the light kit for them too. I have the door delete kit to add, and will probably do that when I install the Kraken/ARB compressor. I’m happy to report there were NO issues at all with the body bolts! 🙌

Today, I got the Teraflex Alpha hinge system and Alpha tire carrier installed. I set the tire carrier for my 37 Ridge Grappler / Method 703 backspacing combo, so I figured I might as well swap all the wheels too. The Teraflex parts are beefy and solid.

I’m loving this thing and can’t wait to get the Clayton suspension installed soon. And the winch…. and the lights, and the list goes on!

I’m really anxious for the replacement hood decals and vent decals from Pixel Decals to get here. Not sure when that will actually be though.


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Did you have any problems while installing the Rock Slide Engineering steps and guards? Think I am going to do same and save some money doing it myself. great looking 392 !!
 
Did you have any problems while installing the Rock Slide Engineering steps and guards? Think I am going to do same and save some money doing it myself. great looking 392 !!
Thanks!

The RSE steps were pretty easy to install. 95% is doable by one person, but mounting the steps to the body it's helpful to have a second set of hands. My wife was able to help me without any problem at all. I didn't run into any problems at all during the install - for the body bolts, I used a 1/2" 24" breaker bar and loosened each bolt with the back and forth method. I would loosen about 3/4-1 full turn, then tighten 1/4-1/2 turn. Keep going back and forth like that, and it'll keep things from gumming up and causing headaches. Eventually you'll get the bolts to a point where you don't need to go back and forth anymore, and they'll loosen quite easily. Whatever you do, DO NOT use an impact. I think the TQ value was 80 ft/lbs, so it's not like they're very tight anyway. Hand tools only!

There were one or two body bolts that I had to file the threads at the washer just a little bit to get the necessary room between the washer and bolt head to install the brackets - but I didn't remove the bolts all the way for any of them. I was super nervous, but proper planning and patience really paid off. I love having the steps and so does my 5'2" wife! They've been trouble-free too.

I did go all in adding the armor, lights (well worth it) and the doors off kit - but each of those can be added later too to help spread out the cost if that's a concern. I've sine gone back in and removed the switches for the rear doors. I never have rear passengers (and actually have the Goose Gear rear seat delete waiting for me to install). Not having the steps drop down when I open a rear door is really convenient for my use case - I don't ever have to worry about the step being in my way when trying to load stuff in through the rear doors. Besides, if I were to need the steps down for the rear doors, odds are very likely that someone will have also opened a front door anyway, triggering the step.

Good luck! I definitely don't regret the RSE steps.

Oh - and don't let the electrical part of the install scare you off. RSE puts together a really nice harness and it's completely standalone. No tying into the Jeep electrical at all.
 
I had the Steer Smarts Yeti XD sector shaft brace installed today along with tire rotation and an alignment. Those together with the Falcon Nexus 2.2 stabilizer has completely transformed the handling...it's a different Jeep. I was running the stabilizer on the firm setting prior to the brace, but now medium feels just right. I couldn't be happier.
 

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I come from sports cars and bikes so I always end up upgrading the suspension. Always looking to turn or corner faster. I was lucky enough to attend the Army’s evasive driving course at Fort Leonard Wood where you learn to drive flat out.

My excuse for upgrading this time was adding the winch.

Best bang for your buck on the pavement is the longer MOPAR front LCAs. Cheap and easy to install. More caster. Better cornering.

Stock stab is fine unless you‘re feeling a little too much wobble going fast over bumps like expansion joints.

I’m happy with the 392 XR shocks but feel like I have to upgrade to match the Clayton’s. Debating either Accutune Fox 2.0s or Falcon 3.3s.
I too attended the Army's evasive driving school in Germany in preparation for Reforger 87 "Certain Strike" support. There's nothing like drifting a 5 ton 6x6 in snow🤘. And I agree with you 100% about upgrading the suspension before you do anything else, especially on a bike. Learn to ride it at speed before adding more power.
 
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Not really sure. I know it's not geared for extreme heavy loads. I plan to use it mainly for travel (luggage, camping gear, kayaks, etc.) It's very sturdy and durable. Feels like it could handle quite a bit of weight. Would depend on the configuration (overall size, number of crossbars/supports).
 
Not really sure. I know it's not geared for extreme heavy loads. I plan to use it mainly for travel (luggage, camping gear, kayaks, etc.) It's very sturdy and durable. Feels like it could handle quite a bit of weight. Would depend on the configuration (overall size, number of crossbars/supports).
Just be careful if that rack is only supported by the drip rails. Those are thin fiberglass and can crack/separate from the roof. As far as I know, they have no metal for reinforcement in them. If someone knows different, please correct me.
 
Just be careful if that rack is only supported by the drip rails. Those are thin fiberglass and can crack/separate from the roof. As far as I know, they have no metal for reinforcement in them. If someone knows different, please correct me.
That was the gist to my question too. While drilling the roof is not desirable, it is necessary to properly support the load:

 
Fully understand. I'm not ready yet, nor do I have the knowledge to start drilling holes in an an almost $100K vehicle. I think this option works best for me. Knowing me, I'd screw the whole thing up and end up ordering all new roof because I didn't measure everything just right. Just can't pull that trigger. This is a whole new thing for me.
 

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