Theft Prevention: How to Decrease the Likelihood of Our 392s Getting Stolen

- Hood locks - Rugged ridge make the best ones imo that are like the stock ones in design, or the red rock ones, which are somewhat inferior two piece design (held by two pins) and the lock isnt as good.
As per Rugged Ridge website:

"they are constructed from heavy-duty aluminum"


A 4-1/2" Cordless Cut-Off or even a "Hacksaw" will go through them like butter...5 minutes or less...aluminum is not a theft deterrent....

Why would you suggest an aluminum lock? Binding Screw with Hex Heads? Doesn't make sense....


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As per Rugged Ridge website:

"they are constructed from heavy-duty aluminum"


A 4-1/2" Cordless Cut-Off or even a "Hacksaw" will go through them like butter...5 minutes or less...aluminum is not a theft deterrent....

Why would you suggest an aluminum lock? Binding Screw with Hex Heads? Doesn't make sense....


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They make it out of aluminum for rust inhibitor ability. Redrocks are just e-coated steel which rust under normal use especially if salt sprayed, have had two sets before trying the rugged ridge ones.

That’s a screw and threaded bolt not a pin. It’s also on the interior of the product with only the head exposed. I know what you’re suggesting. The redrock one you can literally bend the top half off the push pin since the top half sits on top of the bottom half with the pin in between, it’s happened to me during normal use on my gladiator. Hence the wording of my post.

Who’s sawing a lock off your hood at 2am when they can just attack the lock itself silently, or forget it entirely and just steal the car from the inside, like with 99% all other theft, that doesn’t use a relay or engine kill mounted in the engine bay? It would be great actually if thieves were this stupid, people could have a chance to protect their car. There’s always just a flatbed and off they go, tamper with the hood, no alerts if no alarm, under the roof of their own hiding place. Majority of jeep owners never buy hood locks in the first place. I’ve said before I barely consider the hood locks a deterrent but find it necessary to use them anyway as one of the steps only considering that stock is just open to anyone with a hand, the locks they all use are still a weak point. But seriously, I’m done arguing with you on every post you like to criticize to defend your use of your specific hood locks and mobilistics relay. I’ve actually used everything I suggest, and many folks follow the same parameters across different platforms not just MOPAR targeted cars. Good for you if that’s all you’d like to use, no issue with it.
 
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They make it out of aluminum for rust inhibitor ability. Redrocks are just e-coated steel which rust under normal use especially if salt sprayed, have had two sets before trying the rugged ridge ones.

That’s a screw and threaded bolt not a pin. It’s also on the interior of the product with only the head exposed. I know what you’re suggesting. The redrock one you can literally bend the top half off the push pin since the top half sits on top of the bottom half with the pin in between, it’s happened to me during normal use on my gladiator. Hence the wording of my post.

Who’s sawing a lock off your hood at 2am when they can just attack the lock itself silently, or forget it entirely and just steal the car from the inside, like with 99% all other theft, that doesn’t use a relay or engine kill mounted in the engine bay? It would be great actually if thieves were this stupid, people could have a chance to protect their car. There’s always just a flatbed and off they go, tamper with the hood, no alerts if no alarm, under the roof of their own hiding place. Majority of jeep owners never buy hood locks in the first place. I’ve said before I barely consider the hood locks a deterrent but find it necessary to use them anyway as one of the steps only considering that stock is just open to anyone with a hand, the locks they all use are still a weak point. But seriously, I’m done arguing with you on every post you like to criticize to defend your use of your specific hood locks and mobilistics relay. I’ve actually used everything I suggest, and many folks follow the same parameters across different platforms not just MOPAR targeted cars. Good for you if that’s all you’d like to use, no issue with it.
Dude with my tool kit in my Jeep I could have those backed off in minutes and access to the engine bay...they are a joke as far as theft deterrents go....Don't mind someone pissing on my leg, just don't try and tell me it is rain....
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Dude with my tool kit in my Jeep I could have those backed off in minutes and access to the engine bay...they are a joke as far as theft deterrents go....Don't mind someone pissing on my leg, just don't try and tell me it is rain....
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Good for you, that’s 5 minutes more than the stock latches then since you’re so handy. Hope you realize they all attach the same way to the hood and panels. They all have flaws. The redrock is a joke with the overlap + pins. At the end of the day the file cabinet lock type they all use can be cracked easy. It’s a deterrent only for honest people if that wasn’t already obvious. The stock latches should lock, period.
 
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Good for you, that’s 5 minutes more than the stock latches then since you’re so handy. Hope you realize they all attach the same way to the hood and panels. They all have flaws. The redrock is a joke with the overlap + pins. At the end of the day the file cabinet lock type they all use can be cracked easy. It’s a deterrent only for honest people if that wasn’t already obvious. The stock latches should lock, period.
Yes I have own several Jeeps starting with a '72 CJ with a 304 V8 in 1983....40 years ago...

In the future, I wouldn't suggest Rugged Ridge or even Red Rock as a Theft Deterrent, really makes you look like you do not know what you are talking about...

The Rampage Stainless Steel Hood Locks I have on my Jeep are stronger and more secure than both of your suggestions...hands down...it's going take a lot more effort to get past them and a lot more noise...;)

"Stainless Steel or Aluminum? Stainless steel will always provide greater strength than aluminum when compared to similar shapes, thicknesses, or designs. An effective way to compare this is by looking at the tensile strength of each material. Tensile strength is the resistance of a material to breaking under tension."

The Mopar Lock with the OEM Key is probably the best bet of all, but not as convenient as folks desire...

Genuine Mopar Hood Lock Kit​

Part Number: 82215137AC
 
Yes I have own several Jeeps starting with a '72 CJ with a 304 V8 in 1983....40 years ago...

In the future, I wouldn't suggest Rugged Ridge or even Red Rock as a Theft Deterrent, really makes you look like you do not know what you are talking about...

The Rampage Stainless Steel Hood Locks I have on my Jeep are stronger and more secure than both of your suggestions...hands down...it's going take a lot more effort to get past them and a lot more noise...;)

"Stainless Steel or Aluminum? Stainless steel will always provide greater strength than aluminum when compared to similar shapes, thicknesses, or designs. An effective way to compare this is by looking at the tensile strength of each material. Tensile strength is the resistance of a material to breaking under tension."

The Mopar Lock with the OEM Key is probably the best bet of all, but not as convenient as folks desire...

Genuine Mopar Hood Lock Kit​

Part Number: 82215137AC
There is a guy on all the Facebook 392 pages, apparently he was a major part of the 392 development. Scott Blum I think it is. He responded to a comment I made and said they are not easier to steal if you can get access to under the hood.
 
There is a guy on all the Facebook 392 pages, apparently he was a major part of the 392 development. Scott Blum I think it is. He responded to a comment I made and said they are not easier to steal if you can get access to under the hood.
I think I remember seeing that. There’s nothing under the hood for them to interact with they can’t just do in a few minutes inside the car, to my knowledge. On the TRX you can access the can bus behind the headlight but haven’t seen that in a while, just as easy to do it inside the cab in the privacy that it creates.

Just good to lock it because you don’t want some idiot coming by and popping the hood for unknown reasons.

@LTZ470 those are the ones- had those too, that’s actually the ones I was thinking about when I posted the redrock, so that’s on me for not checking what I had ordered on my gladiator initially. Unfortunately they have the same design with the pin, but are much stronger than the redrock ones. i edited my post. redrock ones are probably a knock off of the rampage design. The mopar one, I’ve only seen one time, probably the best but don’t see anyone that uses it. You can see in an older photo what I was talking about if you zoom in with the pin separation. It actually broke completely and that’s when I swapped over to the rugged ridge
 

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I think I remember seeing that. There’s nothing under the hood for them to interact with they can’t just do in a few minutes inside the car, to my knowledge. On the TRX you can access the can bus behind the headlight but haven’t seen that in a while, just as easy to do it inside the cab in the privacy that it creates.

Just good to lock it because you don’t want some idiot coming by and popping the hood for unknown reasons.

@LTZ470 those are the ones- had those too, that’s actually the ones I was thinking about when I posted the redrock, so that’s on me for not checking what I had ordered on my gladiator initially. Unfortunately they have the same design with the pin, but are much stronger than the redrock ones. i edited my post. redrock ones are probably a knock off of the rampage design. The mopar one, I’ve only seen one time, probably the best but don’t see anyone that uses it. You can see in an older photo what I was talking about if you zoom in with the pin separation. It actually broke completely and that’s when I swapped over to the rugged ridge
Or you can always go with a Lasfit setup and lock/unlock your hood via the Jeep remote. Unless someone breaks inside the Jeep, this seems a more secure solution. Plus no need to lock/unluck two hinges and mess with yet another key.

Options, options, options.... all competing for your dollar :)
 
I plan to do the same as what I have on my TRX when our 392 comes in.
IGLA + Compustar T13. I have been "training" my wife on how to use the PIN code process since it will be primarily her toy.

The first thing she asked me was if she could remote-start it. Since it gets pretty toasty here in June-September. Unfortunately with RAVELCO, remote start is not an option.
 
I plan to do the same as what I have on my TRX when our 392 comes in.
IGLA + Compustar T13. I have been "training" my wife on how to use the PIN code process since it will be primarily her toy.

The first thing she asked me was if she could remote-start it. Since it gets pretty toasty here in June-September. Unfortunately with RAVELCO, remote start is not an option.
I thought i recognized your username. good plan. Seems half the TRX forum is getting a 392 also. Fantastic car this.
 
I thought i recognized your username. good plan. Seems half the TRX forum is getting a 392 also. Fantastic car this.
I blame the TRX forum. It caused me to buy a TRX and now a 392 for the wife :ROFLMAO:...plus wanted to get it before they also retire the 392 for some battery deal. My wife refuses to drive electric.
 
I blame the TRX forum. It caused me to buy a TRX and now a 392 for the wife :ROFLMAO:...plus wanted to get it before they also retire the 392 for some battery deal. My wife refuses to drive electric.
Exactly what i did and why. These things are super fun. Cept my wife doesnt yet want to drive the 392. Happy for you both.
 
I blame the TRX forum. It caused me to buy a TRX and now a 392 for the wife :ROFLMAO:...plus wanted to get it before they also retire the 392 for some battery deal. My wife refuses to drive electric.
This was my problem as well. Her IGLA will be installed this week.
 
I think I remember seeing that. There’s nothing under the hood for them to interact with they can’t just do in a few minutes inside the car, to my knowledge. On the TRX you can access the can bus behind the headlight but haven’t seen that in a while, just as easy to do it inside the cab in the privacy that it creates.

Just good to lock it because you don’t want some idiot coming by and popping the hood for unknown reasons.

@LTZ470 those are the ones- had those too, that’s actually the ones I was thinking about when I posted the redrock, so that’s on me for not checking what I had ordered on my gladiator initially. Unfortunately they have the same design with the pin, but are much stronger than the redrock ones. i edited my post. redrock ones are probably a knock off of the rampage design. The mopar one, I’ve only seen one time, probably the best but don’t see anyone that uses it. You can see in an older photo what I was talking about if you zoom in with the pin separation. It actually broke completely and that’s when I swapped over to the rugged ridge
There is a guy on all the Facebook 392 pages, apparently he was a major part of the 392 development. Scott Blum I think it is. He responded to a comment I made and said they are not easier to steal if you can get access to under the hood.
They are easier to steal if you are using the Starter or Fuel Pump Relay Immobilizer...access under the hood to the fuse box gives them opportunity to change the relay and start the engine...Scott Blum is another "all knowing" that stated the SRT Oil Filter wouldn't work on the Jeep 392...I proved him wrong after he told me it wouldn't...
 
They are easier to steal if you are using the Starter or Fuel Pump Relay Immobilizer...access under the hood to the fuse box gives them opportunity to change the relay and start the engine...Scott Blum is another "all knowing" that stated the SRT Oil Filter wouldn't work on the Jeep 392...I proved him wrong after he told me it wouldn't...
What he said was that it could hit the track bar under hard acceleration/decelration due to motor mount flex. I agree the larger filter created no issues for me but apparently they decided it was too close.
 
What he said was that it could hit the track bar under hard acceleration/decelration due to motor mount flex. I agree the larger filter created no issues for me but apparently they decided it was too close.
Yes sir that why I posted this, I pulled a 24 ft trailer "hard" with mine, no issues...thats not even the track bar it's framework....

 
Yes sir that why I posted this, I pulled a 24 ft trailer "hard" with mine, no issues...thats not even the track bar it's framework....


never thought about writing the date/miles on the filter...nice Idea. I usually take a picture of the odometer and save everything in Google photos. But this is so much simpler...
 
never thought about writing the date/miles on the filter...nice Idea. I usually take a picture of the odometer and save everything in Google photos. But this is so much simpler...
It was Jiffy Lube in McKinney, Texas...run by professionals surprisingly...knowledgable...carry Pennzoil SRT Oil...BYOF...SRT filter that is...They only charge you for 7.5 qts as well...
 
I blame the TRX forum. It caused me to buy a TRX and now a 392 for the wife :ROFLMAO:...plus wanted to get it before they also retire the 392 for some battery deal. My wife refuses to drive electric.
My top 2 greatest vehicle purchases of all time (TRX/392). On the 392 forum, I'll list these as #1 (392) and #2 (TRX). :cool:
 
I'm amazed the 392 and TRX have same 0-60 and 1/4 mile times. At least on the sites I have seen. Had to prove it to a TRX fan (not owner) last night.
 

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