Stock Battery replacement?

i got an X2 like week of owning, i got one weak start and made up my mind, i wish sears still made the die hard platinum batteries, I got nearly 10 years out of one and lived in 3 rigs.
 
Stock battery is trash. Some folks get lucky and get one mfg’ed by east penn, the rest are clarious or Johnson controls crap.

I put an odyssey in mine after 2 weeks of buying it.
 
i got an X2 like week of owning, i got one weak start and made up my mind, i wish sears still made the die hard platinum batteries, I got nearly 10 years out of one and lived in 3 rigs.
I went with Costco $179.00 AGM. Innerstate no problems with stock battery but 3 years old multiple cold weather trips coming up. That’s when they go. Our Death Valley trip is delayed due to many washed out roads and trails.but it’s done
 
Just replaced mine at 18 months. Jeep ran fine two weeks ago but then sat for another couple weeks as we are in the process of moving. Battery was so dead that I couldn’t even unlock the doors. Not worth towing to the dealer for another trash battery under warranty so went with an Odyssey out of pocket.
 
I replaced mine with a yellow top, same '23 with about the same miles as well. Probably looking at odyssey later, if someone has gone this route, which part number/model did others go with?
i did the same
 
Does the 392 have an AUX battery?
When you are replacing the main battery are you also replacing or deleting the AUX battery?
The main battery is the H7 size, correct?
 
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Thanks for the quick reply - Makes things a bit easier!
Of course, and according to the thread below, it's an H7 if you have the tow package, and an H6 without. I don't know for sure though or where that user got their info.


And here's another battery thread on this forum>
 
Does the 392 have an AUX battery?
When you are replacing the main battery are you also replacing or deleting the AUX battery?
The main battery is the H7 size, correct?
😳🍿
 
I had almost the exact same issue on my ’23 392 AUX switches not available on startup and the voltage jumping between 11–14V even though it stayed on a charger. The factory battery on these rigs just doesn’t age well, especially with a Tazer installed.
I replaced the stock battery with a 94R/H7 AGM and it fixed everything immediately. The most common upgrades people are running are the Optima YellowTop, the Duralast Platinum AGM, or the DieHard Platinum AGM. If you want to spend more, the Antigravity lithium is the premium option. Any of those are a big step up from the OEM battery.

At 13k miles with those symptoms, yours is definitely on its way out. Replacing it now will save you headaches.
 
I had almost the exact same issue on my ’23 392 AUX switches not available on startup and the voltage jumping between 11–14V even though it stayed on a charger. The factory battery on these rigs just doesn’t age well, especially with a Tazer installed.
I replaced the stock battery with a 94R/H7 AGM and it fixed everything immediately. The most common upgrades people are running are the Optima YellowTop, the Duralast Platinum AGM, or the DieHard Platinum AGM. If you want to spend more, the Antigravity lithium is the premium option. Any of those are a big step up from the OEM battery.

At 13k miles with those symptoms, yours is definitely on its way out. Replacing it now will save you headaches.
Replaced mine at 12000.miles (23) no issues but don’t want any
 
After 18 months and 12k mi I just started getting AUX Switches Recharging at start up. So I’ll be picking up a new battery today to save any headache. After reading the above posts, it’s disappointing to see the premium brands receive such poor reviews. The old days of quality are gone I guess. Sounds like it’s a coin toss theses days. Probably just get a Duralast Platinum since there’s a AutoZone on every corner.
 
Does swapping the battery yourself cause any issues? For example, do you have to enter some sort of code on the screen to get it to work after the swap? Any security alarm issues? Or is it truly a matter of taking the old one out, putting the new one in, and you’re good to go?
I let my ‘25 sit for a few weeks, and got the aux switch unavailable message on startup. I now put it on a charger every two weeks if I’m not driving it. I’m surprised by how much charge it seems to lose over such a short time. I use a 5amp charger, and it takes a few hours to charge.
 
Does swapping the battery yourself cause any issues? For example, do you have to enter some sort of code on the screen to get it to work after the swap? Any security alarm issues? Or is it truly a matter of taking the old one out, putting the new one in, and you’re good to go?
No. Unless you let your Jeep w/o any power for a while, all settings are retained.

I'm not aware that there is re-learning setting required for Jeeps like on some German cars.

The only caveat if you need to do your state mandated (if required) emission tests, and true for most cars, if you disconnect the battery for any amount of time, your OBD "Ready" status will go to "N/A" or "Not Ready" until the vehicle is driven and the emission tests get reset.
 
Just add to this thread. I've been noticing this "Aux Switches Temporarily Unavailable Battery Charging" message for a while, at least a few months I think. A week ago the cold start took a a second longer than usual and today I confirmed this behavior again even though it's about 35 degree in my garage. I even tried after driving 12 miles while the engine was still warm. I could definitely tell the start up hesitated.

Without testing, I don't think the alternator is going bad. So just grabbed a new battery from Costco and replaced the OEM one after I got home. All good now.

For reference, the OEM battery will be 4 years in March. My previous Jeep GC had the OEM battery for 7 years no problem.
 

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Just add to this thread. I've been noticing this "Aux Switches Temporarily Unavailable Battery Charging" message for a while, at least a few months I think. A week ago the cold start took a a second longer than usual and today I confirmed this behavior again even though it's about 35 degree in my garage. I even tried after driving 12 miles while the engine was still warm. I could definitely tell the start up hesitated.

Without testing, I don't think the alternator is going bad. So just grabbed a new battery from Costco and replaced the OEM one after I got home. All good now.

For reference, the OEM battery will be 4 years in March. My previous Jeep GC had the OEM battery for 7 years no problem.
I don’t think you can beat Costco
 
Is the weight of the Optima YellowTop a concern at all?

Seems to be about 8.5 lb heavier than the O'Reilly / Costco AGM and other non-lithium models mentioned in this thread.
 
Same here with an Optima Yellow Top. We used to use Odyssey Batteries but something changed with them in the past 5 years and they just don't last here in the AZ heat like they used to or how Optimas do.

Dave
Hope you guys that got the Yellow tops last longer than my last 2 yellow tops did. I installed the Optima yellow top on my truck and only got 2 years out of the first one. Got a new replacement under warranty and it only lasted for 2 years as well. Switched out to the top of the line Duralast and I'm at 3 years on it now - still strong. Arizona is hell on batteries. Strangely enough, I've got an Everstart from Walmart in our toy hauler that's 11 years old and is still running strong. I'm with those that go with getting the best battery warranty and going that route.
 

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