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Thats an easy one for me. AGM.I want to think the Antigravity battery is the one to get... but with all the negative feedback it's hard to do that. The manufacture said the battery should last 4 years (with full replacement in 1-3 years) ... possibly longer. I like that its only 22 pounds (for the 80Ah). And I like the restart feature. I do not like that it seems to last as long as the other competitors (AGM Batteries) like Optima and Odyssey. Other than being light, its life is the same... but comes with restart. The AG battery is $1200, where the Optima is $360, and the Odyssey is about $350 for the performance and $400 for the extreme (assuming it fits?). if you do the math, you can get more life for the cost of one battery from any of the others. So other than having a lighter battery, or the restart... why would I want to go with AG? Still trying to decide.
Until your warranty expires, I'd just have the dealership replace it for free. I already had them replace a battery in my 21 about 3 months ago.Hey folks. My 2021 392 has a dead battery. I’ve tried to jump it, charge it, and it’s not taking anything. I pulled it out this morning and put it on my ctek (7002) and it’s acting like it’s charging. But I’m not so sure it’s going to work out in the end. I don’t have a way to load test, but I can take it to a parts store I guess. In my experience if the battery is low, the load test isint valid anyway.
Long story short. I k ow I’ll get some different responses. But what is the go to battery that’s an upgrade from stock? If my battery doesn’t take a charge, and I’m forced to replace… I’d like to put a battery in it that is fit for the 392.
Thoughts?
I wish it were that easy. If I could borrow a battery to get my jeep out of storage and then have it towed. Or just drop it off at the dealership I would. Might be worth looking for a used battery just to get it there and then give it away after.Until your warranty expires, I'd just have the dealership replace it for free. I already had them replace a battery in my 21 about 3 months ago.
Ah, I see. Well, it sounds like you just need to get the Jeep running, to get it to the dealership. It does not necessarily need a temporary or borrowed battery to do such. Leave the bad battery in it and jump start it. Once it's running it'll stay running, the alternator will keep everything powered up and the bad battery will still mitigate alternator voltage spikes. Obviously, do not turn the Jeep off until you're parked where the service rep wants the Jeep.I wish it were that easy. If I could borrow a battery to get my jeep out of storage and then have it towed. Or just drop it off at the dealership I would. Might be worth looking for a used battery just to get it there and then give it away after.
We tried to jump it. It would not turn over. I also put a battery jump box on it. Same result. I have pulled the battery out and have been trying to charge it with my ctek 7002. It was causing the ctek to get really hot, and was going to error (!) however I see this morning the ctek shows full charge. It did something like this (50% charge) on the first day. But when I removed the charger the bolts would start to rapidly drop. However this is the first time it’s reached 100%. So when I have time today, I’ll pull the ctek and see what it does. If it starts to drop fast, I may put it back in charge and get things ready to put it in the jeep to see if it will start. If it does I’ll just go to the dealership. If it doesn’t start it, or the battery plummets to a low voltage I’m just going to buy a battery. Unless I come up with another idea.Ah, I see. Well, it sounds like you just need to get the Jeep running, to get it to the dealership. It does not necessarily need a temporary or borrowed battery to do such. Leave the bad battery in it and jump start it. Once it's running it'll stay running, the alternator will keep everything powered up and the bad battery will still mitigate alternator voltage spikes. Obviously, do not turn the Jeep off until you're parked where the service rep wants the Jeep.
Consider buying a jump starter. They are nice to have anyways. Used to keep one in a vehicle I had years ago, when the battery would just die over a few days. Use it periodically to jump my riding lawn mower as well from time to time. Anyways, something to consider...
Free is defiantly goodMaybe put battery back in Jeep and continue to charge. Leave charger connected to battery and use jump box at same time while attempting to start Jeep. If that doesn't work, maybe try using jumper cables from another vehicle and also use jump box. Of course have 2nd vehicle running while attempting to start Jeep.
I've had situations where it took two NOCO GB70 jump boxes connected to one battery to start an engine.
Bought a NOCO GBX155 for Ram 3500 diesel, it's a beast with 4250ca.
Worst case, rob battery out of other vehicle to take to dealer.
Free is good....
I have GB70 as well as GBX75 and they have worked every time. I have wondered if two at a time would work if needed. Did you have to put them in override mode?I've had situations where it took two NOCO GB70 jump boxes connected to one battery to start an engine.
I have GB70 as well as GBX75 and they have worked every time. I have wondered if two at a time would work if needed. Did you have to put them in override mode?
I suspect when dealer puts your battery on a load test, they will replace battery. Even if you have to pay a pro-rated amount, I would to get a new battery.I pulled my ctek off and checked the battery... it was 12+ volts but dropping slowly (might be normal). I tossed in in the jeep and it did start. I haven't permanently put it in yet... going to let it sit till after work today and see if the voltage is back to 4.6 or is its still 12+ volts. If so I'll try to start it and if it does I'll toss the ctek back on to mend it till this weekend. At that point I'll dig it out of my garage so I can drive it... this way, if need be, I can actually get it to the dealership. Or it could be that it has finally taken a charge and might be ok... who knows. thinking if these batteries drop to 4.6 volts, they might get shorted out inside. I guess I'll know later today.
The AG has a BMS system in it and the alternator in the 392 is capable of supplying the charge voltage. If it were left on its own, you'd need a charger with a LiPo profile.with regard to lithium batteries, be careful. I do some work on battery technology and lithium batteries require different charging profiles from other battery types. I would assume the $1000 battery has this built in but I would ask the question before I install one in my 392.
I pulled my ctek off and checked the battery... it was 12+ volts but dropping slowly (might be normal). I tossed in in the jeep and it did start. I haven't permanently put it in yet... going to let it sit till after work today and see if the voltage is back to 4.6 or is its still 12+ volts. If so, I'll try to start it and if it does Ill toss the ctek back on to mend it till this weekend. At that point ill dig it out of my garage so I can drive it... this way, if need be, I can actually get it to the dealership. Or it could be that it has finally taken a charge and might be ok... who knows. thinking if these batteries drop to 4.6 volts, they might get shorted out inside. I guess I'll know later today.
On another note... I have decided to buy the Antigravity battery. but only if I am in a situation where the AGM battery, I have is dead, or if I can't get a replacement from the dealership. I asked them when it would be ready to order again... he said 1-2 weeks... so I'll see what I can do with the factory battery and go from there.
A max of 140 does not bode well for warm climates either. I'm certain I see underhood temps that exceed that even on mild days.Not sure what under-hood and ambient temperatures you expect to see, but for me that has limited me when using LiFePo batteries.
From the AntiGravity automotive battery manual, which for me indicates problems with underhood batteries or for cooler climates:
View attachment 20321
LF
Something doesn't add up here. How are people using this for power sports, race cars, etc. if it cannot live in 140F engine compartments?A max of 140 does not bode well for warm climates either. I'm certain I see underhood temps that exceed that even on mild days.
For weight distribution many race applications have a battery mounted in the rear of the car, as do many current model cars and SUVs. For example @Obi Wong Kenobi probably has the ideal use case in his BMW M3 - trunk mounted (not too hot) & Texas (not too cold), with the bonus of having a nice weight reduction for a performance vehicle.Something doesn't add up here. How are people using this for power sports, race cars, etc. if it cannot live in 140F engine compartments?