Oil Catch Can

[scarab]

Looks like a good idea. The only question I would have is what happen when it freezes. I hope it won’t prevent the fumes from escaping to the manifold.

 

[Membrain]

Hello Membrain,
Curious... How much added value do these catch cans provide? Why is it a good idea to have one installed? I understand that blow-by oil is filtered, but why is a little (very small amount) of oil so bad? From one oil change to the next approximately how much oil is being filter? An ounce? More? Really, I know very little about these cans, actually I never even considered getting one until I started seeing people talk about them on these forums. Any input is appreciated.

Thank You,
~justin

Generally, it usually depends on hard you drive it as to how much potential oil gets to the hose.
If blow-by wasn't a problem they wouldn't have a hose to recirculate it... they have a hose... it's a 392... we gonna stomp on it every now and then... Ima use a catch can.

...just remember, you still need to check/service it regularly.

 

[justinB]

Generally, it usually depends on hard you drive it as to how much potential oil gets to the hose.
If blow-by wasn't a problem they wouldn't have a hose to recirculate it... they have a hose... it's a 392... we gonna stomp on it every now and then... Ima use a catch can.

...just remember, you still need to check/service it regularly.

I'm looking to order one now. Thanks

 

[byhumba]

I found a bracket that works really well! The only cost for this upgrade was the cost of 3ft of hose I had to buy. I used some of the tubing to protect the cables against the bracket.

 

[Membrain]

I just found this today:

.

 

[Membrain]

I found a bracket that works really well! The only cost for this upgrade was the cost of 3ft of hose I had to buy. I used some of the tubing to protect the cables against the bracket.


View attachment 2772
View attachment 2773View attachment 2774View attachment 2775View attachment 2776View attachment 2777

Ok, were did you source the bracket?

 

[byhumba]

Ok, were did you source the bracket?

I installed a belt driven York compressor (onboard air) in my TJ Wrangler a few years back. I needed a check valve and bough it from CUOffroad. The valve and that bracket come in a kit and not sold separately, sadly. I only needed the check valve and had that bracket in my "for future use" pile.


I recently contacted them to see if they sell the bracket by itself, and they still said no.

Here is the website. You can scroll down to the check valve to see the picture. The bracket's hole is a little big, so two washers were needed.

C U Off Road - OnBoardAir.com Components

C U Off Road, Mesquite

www.cuoffroad.com

 

[YukonCornelius]

Nice find, @Membrain ! Thanks for posting!

 

[byhumba]

I just found this today:

.

I saw many catch can options, but all the ones I came across (at least for the Hemi 392) had no sight glass. A sight glass was a must for me as I didn't want to have to open the can to see how much oil It's collected. I also didn't want the catch can sitting high above the engine cover. I had to do some tinkering around, but I'm very happy with my setup.

 

[Turboencabulator]

I'm debating between these two:

• J&L Oil Separator Co. (OSC) that @Membrain found the youtube video for $159
• UPR Products Catch Can that @bcjoiner used $199

J&L (OSC) has a 392 specific kit, and even a video showing it being installed on a Jeep 392.
UPR did not have a specific Jeep 392 kit so I reached out to them and got an email quote $199 for their basic kit.

As far as the business end (air/oil separator) here they are side by side:

They both mount at the same location on the washer fluid mount. I think the UPR comes with a Continental braided hose which I prefer as well as the way the hose is routed. I think the J&L comes with an EATON rubber hose. It looks like the J&L can be ordered with a larger 6oz collector which is helpful. And I think you could add quick connect fittings to both if you wanted that option.

If anyone has installed either or has a preference let me know.

 

[justinB]

I'm debating between these two:

• J&L Oil Separator Co. (OSC) that @Membrain found the youtube video for $159
• UPR Products Catch Can that @bcjoiner used $199

J&L (OSC) has a 392 specific kit, and even a video showing it being installed on a Jeep 392.
UPR did not have a specific Jeep 392 kit so I reached out to them and got an email quote $199 for their basic kit.

As far as the business end (air/oil separator) here they are side by side:
View attachment 3880

They both mount at the same location on the washer fluid mount. I think the UPR comes with a Continental braided hose which I prefer as well as the way the hose is routed. I think the J&L comes with an EATON rubber hose. It looks like the J&L can be ordered with a larger 6oz collector which is helpful. And I think you could add quick connect fittings to both if you wanted that option.
View attachment 3881
If anyone has installed either or has a preference let me know.

I wonder about having these installed higher than the intake.?. It seems that if in the event a person were to delay in emptying the can, allowing the can to get near full [or more], and then the Jeep is put into a steep pitch/roll, the oil would poor into the hose running downward with gravity's assistance [along with ventilation airflow]. Whereas, if the can were lower than the intake at least the oil may rest in the hose then back-fill into the can???? Maybe someone can clarify? Am I over thinking this???

 

[Turboencabulator]

I wonder about having these installed higher than the intake.?. It seems that if in the event a person were to delay in emptying the can, allowing the can to get near full [or more], and then the Jeep is put into a steep pitch/roll, the oil would poor into the hose running downward with gravity's assistance [along with ventilation airflow]. Whereas, if the can were lower than the intake at least the oil may rest in the hose then back-fill into the can???? Maybe someone can clarify? Am I over thinking this???

It’s a good point. The PCV side has a one way valve. The intake side is designed to ingest and burn off the fluid (oil/water/carbon/pure concentrated nastiness) in the engine. Normally it goes straight from the PCV into the intake, in the case of a full can that would be the same. It looks like both cans use an o-ring to make sure the only place all that crud can go is back into the intake hose. The only problem is O-rings require care and can be over tightened and can leak (just ask NASA sadly). I am more worried about a leak in the can causing a small oil fire than it over filling and “bypassing” into the intake. I would just check it routinely and prevent any issues. Just my 2¢, thoughts?

 

[hydro392]

I've put them on my 392 cars. I think its a must..

Same I’ve have one on my 392 Challenger

 

[justinB]

It’s a good point. The PCV side has a one way valve. The intake side is designed to ingest and burn off the fluid (oil/water/carbon/pure concentrated nastiness) in the engine. Normally it goes straight from the PCV into the intake, in the case of a full can that would be the same. It looks like both cans use an o-ring to make sure the only place all that crud can go is back into the intake hose. The only problem is O-rings require care and can be over tightened and can leak (just ask NASA sadly). I am more worried about a leak in the can causing a small oil fire than it over filling and “bypassing” into the intake. I would just check it routinely and prevent any issues. Just my 2¢, thoughts?

Good thing to recognize the potential fire hazard!

Regarding my last question. Understanding that it's normal for oil to gradually flow into the intake, my larger concern would be a flooding of oil due to a sudden tip of the can. Eg. rock climbing.

I do appreciate your response

 

[Turboencabulator]

Same I’ve have one on my 392 Challenger

I assume your talking about UPR? Has it worked well? I am kinda leaning towards the UPR just based on the finished setup.

Regarding my last question. Understanding that it's normal for oil to gradually flow into the intake, my larger concern would be a flooding of oil due to a sudden tip of the can. Eg. rock climbing.

I totally see what you saying now. Yeah that could definitely be an issue. I think the manufacture recommends checking the oil can every 500 hours which is probably way too conservative. But if you install this kinda thing then you need to keep it maintained.

 

[byhumba]

I wonder about having these installed higher than the intake.?. It seems that if in the event a person were to delay in emptying the can, allowing the can to get near full [or more], and then the Jeep is put into a steep pitch/roll, the oil would poor into the hose running downward with gravity's assistance [along with ventilation airflow]. Whereas, if the can were lower than the intake at least the oil may rest in the hose then back-fill into the can???? Maybe someone can clarify? Am I over thinking this???

This is the main reason why I went for a catch can with a sight glass.

Since installing my catch can, about 1,000 miles ago, I've only collected about 10 ml of oil. How much are those of you with a catch can collecting per 1,000 miles?

 

[Shortcut]

I assume your talking about UPR? Has it worked well? I am kinda leaning towards the UPR just based on the finished setup.

I totally see what you saying now. Yeah that could definitely be an issue. I think the manufacture recommends checking the oil can every 500 hours which is probably way too conservative. But if you install this kinda thing then you need to keep it maintained.

I concur with performing appropriate maintenance on a regular basis. I remove and empty my UPR catch can every 1000 miles or so. Pictured is the result of my last effort. I think that the 500-hour recommendation is way too far out based on what I've experienced so far.

 

[StuM]

I saw many catch can options, but all the ones I came across (at least for the Hemi 392) had no sight glass. A sight glass was a must for me as I didn't want to have to open the can to see how much oil It's collected. I also didn't want the catch can sitting high above the engine cover. I had to do some tinkering around, but I'm very happy with my setup.

I see UR in SoCal too. Did you get a vendor to ship one to you here? I tried for my TRX and vendor said “no go…not CARB approved yet.” Thanks,

 

[byhumba]

I see UR in SoCal too. Did you get a vendor to ship one to you here? I tried for my TRX and vendor said “no go…not CARB approved yet.” Thanks,

I bought two, one from CU Offroad a while back for about $80, which I'm using with my York compressor setup in my 2003 Wrangler, and one from Ebay about six months ago for $30 (lucky find), which you can see in my pictures in a previous post.

 

[Turboencabulator]

I'm debating between these two:

• J&L Oil Separator Co. (OSC) that @Membrain found the youtube video for $159
• UPR Products Catch Can that @bcjoiner used $199

J&L (OSC) has a 392 specific kit, and even a video showing it being installed on a Jeep 392.
UPR did not have a specific Jeep 392 kit so I reached out to them and got an email quote $199 for their basic kit.

As far as the business end (air/oil separator) here they are side by side:
View attachment 3880

They both mount at the same location on the washer fluid mount. I think the UPR comes with a Continental braided hose which I prefer as well as the way the hose is routed. I think the J&L comes with an EATON rubber hose. It looks like the J&L can be ordered with a larger 6oz collector which is helpful. And I think you could add quick connect fittings to both if you wanted that option.
View attachment 3881
If anyone has installed either or has a preference let me know.

Just to follow up.... I ended up buying the UPR setup.
My contact at UPR was Steve Bussius ([email protected]).
I specifically wanted:

• Braided (Continental) hoses with finished ends on the engine side
• Quick disconnect fittings on the oil catch can side
• High end Made in the USA components

Due to the quick disconnect the final price was $219 including shipping. This pic shows the complete kit along with the (MOPAR part# 53011561AA) PCV tube it's replacing.

I ended up cutting the hoses to length, I used a PEX hose cutter to make a clean cut then I installed the fittings, the quick disconnect was already installed. The oil catch can is directional and there is an arrow indicating the flow.

This new UPR Catch Can uses a new multistage filter that I was impressed with, and not expecting. Below are a couple of photos using my setup to show how UPR and J&L setups compare. I am sure J&L is a very good product but the quick disconnects, braided hose, and the filter set-up of the UPR sold me. It took me about 15 min to install and it would take about 5 min to remove everything (all you need is a 10mm socket for the bracket bolt) and you could be back to stock for inspection or maintenance work.