Oil Catch Can

[Fast-n-Furious]

Just to follow up.... I ended up buying the UPR setup.
My contact at UPR was Steve Bussius ([email protected]).
I specifically wanted:

• Braided (Continental) hoses with finished ends on the engine side
• Quick disconnect fittings on the oil catch can side
• High end Made in the USA components

Due to the quick disconnect the final price was $219 including shipping. This pic shows the complete kit along with the (MOPAR part# 53011561AA) PCV tube it's replacing.
View attachment 4010
I ended up cutting the hoses to length, I used a PEX hose cutter to make a clean cut then I installed the fittings, the quick disconnect was already installed. The oil catch can is directional and there is an arrow indicating the flow.
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This new UPR Catch Can uses a new multistage filter that I was impressed with, and not expecting. Below are a couple of photos using my setup to show how UPR and J&L setups compare. I am sure J&L is a very good product but the quick disconnects, braided hose, and the filter set-up of the UPR sold me. It took me about 15 min to install and to would take about 5 min to remove everything (all you need is a 10mm socket for the bracket bolt) and you could be back to stock for inspection or maintenance work.
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Always informative and detailed

 

[Shortcut]

Just to follow up.... I ended up buying the UPR setup.
My contact at UPR was Steve Bussius ([email protected]).
I specifically wanted:

• Braided (Continental) hoses with finished ends on the engine side
• Quick disconnect fittings on the oil catch can side
• High end Made in the USA components

Due to the quick disconnect the final price was $219 including shipping. This pic shows the complete kit along with the (MOPAR part# 53011561AA) PCV tube it's replacing.
View attachment 4010
I ended up cutting the hoses to length, I used a PEX hose cutter to make a clean cut then I installed the fittings, the quick disconnect was already installed. The oil catch can is directional and there is an arrow indicating the flow.
View attachment 4011
View attachment 4012
This new UPR Catch Can uses a new multistage filter that I was impressed with, and not expecting. Below are a couple of photos using my setup to show how UPR and J&L setups compare. I am sure J&L is a very good product but the quick disconnects, braided hose, and the filter set-up of the UPR sold me. It took me about 15 min to install and to would take about 5 min to remove everything (all you need is a 10mm socket for the bracket bolt) and you could be back to stock for inspection or maintenance work.
View attachment 4013
View attachment 4015

Great analysis and informative input! Thank you for taking the time to be so thorough and posting the information in such detail!!

 

[shojeep]

Great analysis and informative input! Thank you for taking the time to be so thorough and posting the information in such detail!!

I've had a UPR catch can on my Taurus SHO for about 80,000 miles. I like the braided hoses and the quick-disconnects. I empty the can at every oil change (5000 miles) and have used Mobil 1 oil since day one. The can is usually about 1/3 full when I empty it.
SHOJEEP

 

[MrDavo]

Jeep 392 HEMI Catch Can

HEMI 6.4 Oil Catch Can Kit (Jeep OEM Hemi 2021-2022)

pettysgarage.com

Has anyone used this?

 

[thexr6]

Just to follow up.... I ended up buying the UPR setup.
My contact at UPR was Steve Bussius ([email protected]).
I specifically wanted:

• Braided (Continental) hoses with finished ends on the engine side
• Quick disconnect fittings on the oil catch can side
• High end Made in the USA components

Due to the quick disconnect the final price was $219 including shipping. This pic shows the complete kit along with the (MOPAR part# 53011561AA) PCV tube it's replacing.
View attachment 4010
I ended up cutting the hoses to length, I used a PEX hose cutter to make a clean cut then I installed the fittings, the quick disconnect was already installed. The oil catch can is directional and there is an arrow indicating the flow.
View attachment 4011
View attachment 4012
View attachment 4027
This new UPR Catch Can uses a new multistage filter that I was impressed with, and not expecting. Below are a couple of photos using my setup to show how UPR and J&L setups compare. I am sure J&L is a very good product but the quick disconnects, braided hose, and the filter set-up of the UPR sold me. It took me about 15 min to install and it would take about 5 min to remove everything (all you need is a 10mm socket for the bracket bolt) and you could be back to stock for inspection or maintenance work.
View attachment 4032
View attachment 4015

Thanks for the write up!
Am ordering this for my yet-to-built 392….

 

[Turboencabulator]

Thanks for the write up!
Am ordering this for my yet-to-built 392….

Glad it helped!
I just emptied the catch can yesterday after 1,000 miles since I emptied it last. It was about 20% full, mostly oil in there but a few water droplets as well. Interestingly the oil was much dirtier than at the dipstick, a lot more carbon in it I think. Either way I am glad it is separated out and not running through the intake. The catch can has been a little snug to remove, but when I put it on I am super carful to tighten it gently because there is an O-ring in there and you don't want to damage it by over tightening. The amount of Oil I have added seems to be just a bit shy of the amount caught in the catch can. As far as the fittings and bracket, everything has held up real nice, and I would buy it again with out hesitation.
Good Luck!

 

[thexr6]

Glad it helped!
I just emptied the catch can yesterday after 1,000 miles since I emptied it last. It was about 20% full, mostly oil in there but a few water droplets as well. Interestingly the oil was much dirtier than at the dipstick, a lot more carbon in it I think. Either way I am glad it is separated out and not running through the intake. The catch can has been a little snug to remove, but when I put it on I am super carful to tighten it gently because there is an O-ring in there and you don't want to damage it by over tightening. The amount of Oil I have added seems to be just a bit shy of the amount caught in the catch can. As far as the fittings and bracket, everything has held up real nice, and I would buy it again with out hesitation.
Good Luck!

Just curious - do you need to unmount/disassemble the unit to empty? Or does cartridge unscrew from bottom (or something) for easy access?

 

[Turboencabulator]

Just curious - do you need to unmount/disassemble the unit to empty? Or does cartridge unscrew from bottom (or something) for easy access?

Just unscrews from the bottom, it is a very fine tread so I have to be careful not to cross thread it putting it back on. There is very useful knurling on the can to make it easy to twist. The screen doesn't drip when you have the can removed, so no worries there. The only issue I have is reaching it. I'm 6'2" and I can reach it just barely from the driver's side.

 

[thexr6]

Just unscrews from the bottom, it is a very fine tread so I have to be careful not to cross thread it putting it back on. The screen doesn't drip so no worries there. The only issue I have is reaching it. I'm 6'2" and I can reach it just barely from the driver's side.

Interesting. Hoping the AEV bumper will allow additional reach then. Otherwise i will planking over the engine bay to reach….

 

[Turboencabulator]

Interesting. Hoping the AEV bumper will allow additional reach then. Otherwise i will planking over the engine bay to reach….

I am standing on the side of the engine bay, next to the driver side door to reach it. Basically reaching over the brake booster and windshield washer reservoir with my left arm. It isn't too hard to do. Now when I go to 35's.... well....

 

[Shortcut]

Interesting. Hoping the AEV bumper will allow additional reach then. Otherwise i will planking over the engine bay to reach….

The Topside Creeper I bought to work in my LJ engine bay with 4" lift on 35s, also works great for reaching the catch can on the 392 with 37s.

 

[RugbyRef]

The Topside Creeper I bought to work in my LJ engine bay with 4" lift on 35s, also works great for reaching the catch can on the 392 with 37s.View attachment 4976View attachment 4977

That's pretty cool!

 

[hardhat]

I'm still trying to wrap my brain around a catch can on a NA port injected engine. I've never run one. I get it on a supercharged engine due to increased blowby and not wanting to run oil through the supercharger. I get it on direct injected engines. Oil could end up caking on back side of intake valves over time.

But on NA port injected engine it seems like there is nowhere for the oil to do any damage. I had a little oil coating parts of the intake of my 1991 5.0 mustang when I took it apart, but nothing that restricted airflow. Seems like the atomized fuel from the port injection would keep oil from gunking up backside of intake valve. Seems like the oil would just make its way through and be burned.

Am I missing something?

 

[Electrified]

I'm still trying to wrap my brain around a catch can on a NA port injected engine. I've never run one. I get it on a supercharged engine due to increased blowby and not wanting to run oil through the supercharger. I get it on direct injected engines. Oil could end up caking on back side of intake valves over time.

But on NA port injected engine it seems like there is nowhere for the oil to do any damage. I had a little oil coating parts of the intake of my 1991 5.0 mustang when I took it apart, but nothing that restricted airflow. Seems like the atomized fuel from the port injection would keep oil from gunking up backside of intake valve. Seems like the oil would just make its way through and be burned.

Am I missing something?

Thank you for putting into words what I was thinking.

 

[Turboencabulator]

I'm still trying to wrap my brain around a catch can on a NA port injected engine. I've never run one. I get it on a supercharged engine due to increased blowby and not wanting to run oil through the supercharger. I get it on direct injected engines. Oil could end up caking on back side of intake valves over time.

But on NA port injected engine it seems like there is nowhere for the oil to do any damage. I had a little oil coating parts of the intake of my 1991 5.0 mustang when I took it apart, but nothing that restricted airflow. Seems like the atomized fuel from the port injection would keep oil from gunking up backside of intake valve. Seems like the oil would just make its way through and be burned.

Am I missing something?

I agree the fuel should keep the valves clean. I guess it came down to if I could keep all that stuff out of the intake vs. letting it go through the engine I prefer keeping it out. Also it is diagnostically interesting to see what’s coming out of the PCV. But your correct you don’t need it like you would on direct injection.

 

[Stonehide]

I'm still trying to wrap my brain around a catch can on a NA port injected engine. I've never run one. I get it on a supercharged engine due to increased blowby and not wanting to run oil through the supercharger. I get it on direct injected engines. Oil could end up caking on back side of intake valves over time.

But on NA port injected engine it seems like there is nowhere for the oil to do any damage. I had a little oil coating parts of the intake of my 1991 5.0 mustang when I took it apart, but nothing that restricted airflow. Seems like the atomized fuel from the port injection would keep oil from gunking up backside of intake valve. Seems like the oil would just make its way through and be burned.

Am I missing something?

I don't think I've ever been on a forum where this wasn't a widely debated item LOL! I think it's pretty clear that a catch can isn't NECESSARY in an NA port injected engine, and the benefits that can be measured in general are marginal at best. That said, there's a few things (I'm no engineer, just rubbing my 2 braincells together so feel free to call me out on anything that doesn't make sense) to consider that may make a catch can more worthwhile to some over others:

1. Some engines produce more blow-by than others. You've got folks who've installed catch cans reporting nothing but a few drops, then you've got some who are dumping out 1/4 quart of oil every month.
2. Our 6.4 hemis have active runners in our manifolds. The 'active' part being flaps that actuate to change the runners over from short to long. I could see oil accumulating on these flaps, particularly the hinges, and eventually gumming them up with sludge as that oil attracts any contaminants that get past the air filter over time.
3. How much time does your 392 spend offroad? If you offroad, and have an engine that produces more blow by, you're going to be collecting dust & grime in your intake at much faster rate than someone who never leaves pavement.
4. Again, depending on how much blow by your engine is producing, there's a potential for (likely negligible) octane drop as oil & condensation mix with your fuel. Like I said, this is probably a negligible amount, but might be a factor especially for those of us at high altitude or folks who are trying to squeeze every drop of performance from their engines.
5. I haven't seen much evidence of catch cans causing any detrimental effects, unlike some "performance" bolt ons, except for cases where people have installed them and then forgotten about them, which eventually leads to their engines sucking down a full can of dirty oil and possible hydro locking. If you aren't consistent with your vehicle maintenance, and especially if you don't change your own oil, catch cans might not be for you.

Again, this is all anecdotal conjecture from a guy with no professional automotive experience (unless you count my summer job at Jiffy Lube when I was 18 as professional ), YMMV!

Cutaway pic of the 392 intake manifold and the active runners (the green rectangles) for those interested:

 

[MrDavo]

If anyone is interested in a oil catch Pettys Garage, has one, also if you live in California, yes you can order it online

 

[Turboencabulator]

Just want to give some feedback after a few thousand miles using the UPR catch can.

I had been emptying the catch can every 500 mi, but I decided to let it go to 1000 mi. and see how full it got. It was only about 20% full at 1000 mi. I would reckon about 2oz. I dumped it out on a plastic lid for high-tech analysis. It appears it is now 99% oil, it had been more water and other stuff during the break-in first 1000 miles. There was some crud at the bottom of the catch can I wiped out.

While a catch can is definitely not "necessary" on the 392 platform (see port injection vs direct injection) being able to monitor PCV oil usage vs. engine oil added is very helpful to monitoring overall engine oil use and health. Also, I have seen 392 startups on YouTube where there is a small cloud of white smoke during cold start, with a catch can you can rule out PCV oil as the culprit. I'm happy with this "mod", its easy to instal/use, works flawlessly, low maintenance, and useful.

 

[Shortcut]

Just want to give some feedback after a few thousand miles using the UPR catch can.

I had been emptying the catch can every 500 mi, but I decided to let it go to 1000 mi. and see how full it got. It was only about 20% full at 1000 mi. I would reckon about 2oz. I dumped it out on a plastic lid for high-tech analysis. It appears it is now 99% oil, it had been more water and other stuff during the break-in first 1000 miles. There was some crud at the bottom of the catch can I wiped out.
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While a catch can is definitely not "necessary" on the 392 platform (see port injection vs direct injection) being able to monitor PCV oil usage vs. engine oil added is very helpful to monitoring overall engine oil use and health. Also, I have seen 392 startups on YouTube where there is a small cloud of white smoke during cold start, with a catch can you can rule out PCV oil as the culprit. I'm happy with this "mod", its easy to instal/use, works flawlessly, low maintenance, and useful.

Thank you Turboencabulator. I drain my catch can every thousand miles and find about 2 Tbs./5.5 tsp./just shy of 1 oz./about 20.5 ml. I didn't think to check for water, so thank you for mentioning that. I will certainly start checking for it when I drain the catch can.

 

[Turboencabulator]

Thank you Turboencabulator. I drain my catch can every thousand miles and find about 2 Tbs./5.5 tsp./just shy of 1 oz./about 20.5 ml. I didn't think to check for water, so thank you for mentioning that. I will certainly start checking for it when I drain the catch can.

Wow you are much more precise with your measurement.
I don't think water is an issue. I just noticed a single water droplet when I did my sophisticated Chinese takeout transparent lid test . Nothing to worry about. I did notice a much more substantial amount of water and other interesting "stuff" (code for I have no idea what it was) during the first 500 miles. Being a brand new engine it could have been sitting around for a while (condensation), it also could be engine assembly products getting flushed out the PCV.

But to me that is the real benefit of an oil catch can, you can actually see what's coming out the PCV and how much. The added benefit is that it's not passing through the engine especially at startup. I added .25 quarts (about 8oz) of oil at 1,000 miles. I have "caught" about 5oz in the catch can. So most of the "missing" oil is leaving out the PCV. I check the oil after every fill-up, 5 min after engine shutdown. The Oil level has been extremely stable. The Oil looks clean. My MPG has been steadily climbing. All that tells me the engine break-in is proceeding nicely with no leaks (knock on wood).