Kill Switch

Excellent. Thanks for the info!

Anyone have any idea about a battery kill switch? I installed one on my YJ and a TJ I had. They worked wonders on my battery life. I may periodically go a decent amount of time not driving my 392 and tossed around the idea of possibly doing this. Then I though about how different the electrical system is on a YJ and TJ vs a 392 and am worried I'd create some gremlins.
 
Excellent. Thanks for the info!

Anyone have any idea about a battery kill switch? I installed one on my YJ and a TJ I had. They worked wonders on my battery life. I may periodically go a decent amount of time not driving my 392 and tossed around the idea of possibly doing this. Then I though about how different the electrical system is on a YJ and TJ vs a 392 and am worried I'd create some gremlins.
I ended up with an onboard charger for my JK. Prevents parasitic draw from killing the batteries and no gremlins.
 
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Mine will be here today.

If anyone has any ideas on a discreet switch that would be easily concealed, I'd be interested to hear about it.

Thanks!
 
I ended up with an onboard charger for my JK. events parasitic draw from killing the batteries and no gremlins.
Can you tell me more about what you used/did? I may do the same
 
Honestly wasn’t aware such a thing existed. Thanks! 👍
 
Mine will be here today.

If anyone has any ideas on a discreet switch that would be easily concealed, I'd be interested to hear about it.

Thanks!
Someone posted a link over on the TRX forum- so I went the same route with this: Switch Link. With the new harness, it's comically simple to do and popping the dash piece exposing the ignition wire switch meant that it literally took 5min total for my switch to be operational. The hardest (and most time-consuming) part for me was finding a good place I felt comfortable mounting the switch itself.
 
Someone posted a link over on the TRX forum- so I went the same route with this: Switch Link. With the new harness, it's comically simple to do and popping the dash piece exposing the ignition wire switch meant that it literally took 5min total for my switch to be operational. The hardest (and most time-consuming) part for me was finding a good place I felt comfortable mounting the switch itself.
I got the harness from the TRX forum but have done nothing with it. Good to know its easy to get to, I'll get to work on it. Did you end up pulling the start switch out or just connect the harness with it in place?
 
I got the harness from the TRX forum but have done nothing with it. Good to know its easy to get to, I'll get to work on it. Did you end up pulling the start switch out or just connect the harness with it in place?
No- you don't have to take the start switch out of its housing if that's what you're asking. Just unplug the clip that goes to it and put the new harness in its place while plugging the factory harness to your new one. Simple as that.
 
No- you don't have to take the start switch out of its housing if that's what you're asking. Just unplug the clip that goes to it and put the new harness in its place while plugging the factory harness to your new one. Simple as that.
Just now getting around to getting the kill switch in. Were you able to get your hand up there behind the kill switch to disconnect? I think I can barely touch it but I really dont think I would be able to disconnect it. Did you take any part of the dash apart?
 
Just now getting around to getting the kill switch in. Were you able to get your hand up there behind the kill switch to disconnect? I think I can barely touch it but I really dont think I would be able to disconnect it. Did you take any part of the dash apart?
I reached up behind switch, depressed the tabs 12 and 6 and pulled switch out of dash. I guess one could unplug from switch in-situ but then you can't tape over the connectors.
 
Just now getting around to getting the kill switch in. Were you able to get your hand up there behind the kill switch to disconnect? I think I can barely touch it but I really dont think I would be able to disconnect it. Did you take any part of the dash apart?
For what it's worth, taking that center part of the dash literally takes like 30seconds...so you can then pull the ignition button wires. I think it would take longer for me to position myself under the dash to see if I could even look up & reach. :ROFLMAO:
 
For what it's worth, taking that center part of the dash literally takes like 30seconds...so you can then pull the ignition button wires. I think it would take longer for me to position myself under the dash to see if I could even look up & reach. :ROFLMAO:
I dont doubt it. Which piece comes out first?
 
Just now getting around to getting the kill switch in. Were you able to get your hand up there behind the kill switch to disconnect? I think I can barely touch it but I really dont think I would be able to disconnect it. Did you take any part of the dash apart?
For what it's worth, taking that center part of the dash literally takes like 30seconds...so you can then pull the ignition button wires. I think it would take longer for me to position myself under the dash to see if I could even look up & reach. :ROFLMAO:
I dont doubt it. Which piece comes out first?
Got it. Youtube showed me.
 
Got it. Youtube showed me.
Cool yeah- that's what I was gonna suggest. Use a plastic pry piece if you can to avoid potential scratches. You'll hear a loud pop (almost sounds like it breaking) when it starts to com out that'll scare the pizz outta you, but don't worry...haha
 
So on the TRX forum, I learned that a simple kill switch could be added without cutting into the factory harness and still retain remote start, so added it to my TRX. I then took apart my 392 dash to expose the start stop button, and I found it has the same wire pattern. So I made one for the 393. Hiding the switch is up to you as to where to locate it.

The picture shows the harness I bought and you only use 2 connectors and some of the wire for the remote switch. I used a quality SPST switch. Took about 1 hour to modify and install. Pulling the dash is easy (YouTube it).
The red wires are the wires to connect to the switch. The green stripe wire and the red stripe wire get soldered together.
I used the grey wires from the kit to extend the red wires to the kill switch.

I used TESA tape to wrap it up. Including the connectors. This tape sucks to take apart.

Cost is about $70. Cheaper if you source the connectors and pins.

View attachment 16015View attachment 16016
View attachment 16017View attachment 16018
Here is the TRX setup.
View attachment 16019
Man worked like a charm, took less than an hour (felt like five in Texas heat) lol
 
I have the harness from the TRX forum, but haven’t looked into an actual switch yet.

Anyone have any recommendations for what they’ve used?
 
I have the harness from the TRX forum, but haven’t looked into an actual switch yet.

Anyone have any recommendations for what they’ve used?
I forgot the name, but it US made and used in boats. Here is a picture.
Screenshot_20230613_194138_Chrome.jpg
 
I have the harness from the TRX forum, but haven’t looked into an actual switch yet.

Anyone have any recommendations for what they’ve used?
Any quality switch located where only you know (or a trusted friend). When traveling I also use the PIN lock mode on the Tazer. So even if someone had your own fob they would need to know the PIN>
 

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