Who makes the best electric powersteps for the 24/5 392?

Toggle button? Interesting, does that mean they don't have any parasitic draw in the normally closed position?
Talked to a dealer (distributor) they suggested that a cut off switch at the battery when not using the Jeep would be the best way not to have any parasitic draw . Friend has rse and has had no problems but has been able to measure a draw how much I don’t know . As stated no dead battery no problems .
 
Talked to a dealer (distributor) they suggested that a cut off switch at the battery when not using the Jeep would be the best way not to have any parasitic draw . Friend has rse and has had no problems but has been able to measure a draw how much I don’t know . As stated no dead battery no problems .
Not sure why they would suggest installing a switch by the battery when both sets that I've installed had a toggle switch that mounts inside next to the ODB2 port that kills power to the steps. I use the switch to keep them down when I'm washing the Jeep and it also kills the lights that are installed inside the steps. But as someone else posted, I don't think they have a parasitic draw anymore. I've not noticed any issues with mine killing the battery.
 
The original versions had different electronics and a bypass button that had a red led that would light up when the steps are in the bypass mode. The gen 1 steps are notorious for causing parasitic battery drain issues.

The Gen 2 steps were re-designed, they do have a passive bypass toggle that draws no power and has no indicator lights. And while they do draw a minor (almost nothing) amount of power I have had them installed without any battery issues since July, and my 392 is not a daily driver and maybe gets driven once a week. If your really curious I can measure it for you.

There is really no reason for a 12v bypass, if you think you might not drive for an extended period of time you can always remove the fuse from harness that powers the steps. Its location is right next to where you connect to the battery, super easy to get to.
 
The original versions had different electronics and a bypass button that had a red led that would light up when the steps are in the bypass mode. The gen 1 steps are notorious for causing parasitic battery drain issues.

The Gen 2 steps were re-designed, they do have a passive bypass toggle that draws no power and has no indicator lights. And while they do draw a minor (almost nothing) amount of power I have had them installed without any battery issues since July, and my 392 is not a daily driver and maybe gets driven once a week. If your really curious I can measure it for you.

There is really no reason for a 12v bypass, if you think you might not drive for an extended period of time you can always remove the fuse from harness that powers the steps. Its location is right next to where you connect to the battery, super easy to get to.
That’s easy enough thanks
 
Ok, I know I am going to catch flack on this one but wifey is complaining about how difficult it is to get into the new 392 (vs our old 2018 JL Rubicon). I tried to explain the larger tiers, Xtream package and 392 lift makes the door sill about 4 inches higher. Plus our old JL Rubi had factory Sahara running boards I installed on for her and a interior grab handle. That explanation held no water and her response was "Fix it" and do it on both sides so I will be able to drive it.

Doing some looking there are lots on the market but unfortunately all require the factory Rubi/392 rock rails must be removed (which I am not happy about) and putting on electric steps requires them to be removed for any "REAL" off roading and re-installing the factory rails. It would have been nice if a company had made a set that could easily be removed as needed with the original rail still in place.

So with all of that said who makes the best made, dependable and most like the factory rails look. thx for the suggestions!
Looking for a price for steps, skids and lights total
 
Ok, I know I am going to catch flack on this one but wifey is complaining about how difficult it is to get into the new 392 (vs our old 2018 JL Rubicon). I tried to explain the larger tiers, Xtream package and 392 lift makes the door sill about 4 inches higher. Plus our old JL Rubi had factory Sahara running boards I installed on for her and a interior grab handle. That explanation held no water and her response was "Fix it" and do it on both sides so I will be able to drive it.

Doing some looking there are lots on the market but unfortunately all require the factory Rubi/392 rock rails must be removed (which I am not happy about) and putting on electric steps requires them to be removed for any "REAL" off roading and re-installing the factory rails. It would have been nice if a company had made a set that could easily be removed as needed with the original rail still in place.

So with all of that said who makes the best made, dependable and most like the factory rails look. thx for the suggestions!
Ordered it today


Did any body have difficulty with body mount bolts . Striping or seizing
 
Ordered it today


Did any body have difficulty with body mount bolts . Striping or seizing
I used an impact and worked them back and forth about a 1/4 turn. I didn't remove any of the bolts, just backed them out far enough to get the steps installed. Put a mark on your impact socket and work them back and forth a little bit at a time. I would work on the bolts prior to your steps coming in. I've installed these on 3 jeeps and never had a problem.
 
I used an impact and worked them back and forth about a 1/4 turn. I didn't remove any of the bolts, just backed them out far enough to get the steps installed. Put a mark on your impact socket and work them back and forth a little bit at a time. I would work on the bolts prior to your steps coming in. I've installed these on 3 jeeps and never had a problem.
Thanks that was my plan I was going to squirt some lubricant on them and soak in for a few days. Bolts on new Jeeps are much different thal the older models. Thanks for your response

How long was your install time?
 
It took about 4-5 hours counting the time I spent loosening the bolts. All of mine had red Loctite on them which seems crazy to me. You can't really heat them up because of the rubber body mounts. If a person had a heat induction gun it would really speed things up. One of these days I'm going to purchase one as they are getting pretty reasonably priced.
 
Ordered it today


Did any body have difficulty with body mount bolts . Striping or seizing
Yes, and we actually use an inductive coil tool to try and superheat the Loctite before we attempt to remove the bolts. The front passenger side and driver side middle are always the hardest!

Dave
 
There are very specific instruction about how to remove the body bolts without damage.

After trying to remove one which seem to take a lifetime I decided to pull out my induction heat gun which I should have used to begin with but I was about possible damage the frame donuts. Mine also had red locktite on them.

Anyway, the induction gun is the way to go. You only need to get the bolt to about 300C to get the thermoplastic of red locktite to soften to allow easier removal. You could use a heat gun but that does not focus the heat strictkly on the bolt which is what you want to target.

If you decide to go with the RSE instruction follow them exactly and work them back and forth to keep from damaging the hardware.

If you wrench on vehicles, especially old one (or rusty ones) an induction heating tool is worth its weight in Gold!
 
Ordered it today


Did any body have difficulty with body mount bolts . Striping or seizing
I bought an induction tool just in case but didn’t end up needing it. I was paranoid about breaking one from all the horror stories I read lol. I just used a beaker bar then worked them back and forth. I had to completely remove the bolts as I had to grind the lip for the washer off them to get the bracket to fit correctly but overall had no issues.

Not sure how long it took but it was a while. I did wiring one day then steps the next.
 
Talked to a dealer (distributor) they suggested that a cut off switch at the battery when not using the Jeep would be the best way not to have any parasitic draw . Friend has rse and has had no problems but has been able to measure a draw how much I don’t know . As stated no dead battery no problems .
my husband installed a cutoff switch at the battery, a few dollars from amazon, no more dead battery and it works great as security.
 
I have a lifted 2018 2dr JK and a 2024 392FE… I have AMP Research Power Steps on both. I really like their look and function. I go off road quite often, however I don’t like bouncing around on rocks.. That’s what my RZR is for.
my JL Rubi has the AMP and the 392 has Rocksl
I have a lifted 2018 2dr JK and a 2024 392FE… I have AMP Research Power Steps on both. I really like their look and function. I go off road quite often, however I don’t like bouncing around on rocks.. That’s what my RZR is for.
my JL rubi has the AMP steps and the 392 has Rockslide steps. The AMP steps sound solid when opening and closing the doors - almost 5 yrs old and motors still working, the Rockslides have a smaller platform for your foot - both motors in the Rockslides need replacement after 3yrs.
 
I bought an induction tool just in case but didn’t end up needing it. I was paranoid about breaking one from all the horror stories I read lol. I just used a beaker bar then worked them back and forth. I had to completely remove the bolts as I had to grind the lip for the washer off them to get the bracket to fit correctly but overall had no issues.

Not sure how long it took but it was a while. I did wiring one day then steps the next.
Thanks
 
my husband installed a cutoff switch at the battery, a few dollars from amazon, no more dead battery and it works great as security.
I looked a a few might be a good idea for long term storage would you mind sharing a picture of the switch . Thanks
 
I bought an induction tool just in case but didn’t end up needing it. I was paranoid about breaking one from all the horror stories I read lol. I just used a beaker bar then worked them back and forth. I had to completely remove the bolts as I had to grind the lip for the washer off them to get the bracket to fit correctly but overall had no issues.

Not sure how long it took but it was a while. I did wiring one day then steps the next.
Did you have to remove threads at washer end on all 6 bolts? I’m exercising bolts now, backed driver side out about 2 inches , noticed threads at head end of bolt that thread into rubber mount bushing keeping 2 inch washer from sliding upwards allowing room for RSE bracket. I’m sure they heat washer up and press on to bolt during manufacture. Same type of bolts on steering box .

Rse directions say use a rubber mallet and tap bracket in place ,or file threads. That’s an extra hour or more. Thanks .I was able to pry bolt out there is a clip / lock washer up there underneath the nut that keeps the bolt from just falling out.
 

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Did you have to remove threads at washer end on all 6 bolts? I’m exercising bolts now, backed driver side out about 2 inches , noticed threads at head end of bolt that thread into rubber mount bushing keeping 2 inch washer from sliding upwards allowing room for RSE bracket. I’m sure they heat washer up and press on to bolt during manufacture. Same type of bolts on steering box .

Rse directions say use a rubber mallet and tap bracket in place ,or file threads. That’s an extra hour or more. Thanks .I was able to pry bolt out there is a clip washer up there underneath the nut that keeps the bolt from just falling out.
Yep those threads. After I had to do the first one I did them all with my bench grinder about 30 seconds each lol
 
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I cheated and chucked them up in my lathe and cut them off but could have easily done the same using a die grider, bench grinder or frustrated my self to death with a file. Anyway you do it they have to go.
 
I looked a a few might be a good idea for long term storage would you mind sharing a picture of the switch . Thanks
well it's not a switch but a knob, the wiring on right side is not his work
 

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