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Magnuson Supercharger Ordered.

anyone dealt with their warranty before???
 
This is a very good warranty especially if vehicle is new.
There’s actually a cap on how much they’ll pay for parts. It’s better than zero warranty. Maximum coverage is $6500 on the standard warranty and $16500 on the extended which costs you another $750. None of it kicks in until Stellantis denies your warranty first.
 
New 392 engine built with Proformance parts is about 12K
 
New 392 engine built with Proformance parts is about 12K
I wonder if you have to include your blower replacement cost in that $$$ plus installation for all of it. It’s nice they offer a warranty but it’s not really a full warranty. Hence the limited in the description.
 
no I was not counting that. It said power train so was not figuring that. I was taking the separate warranty of 36000 miles at top. looked like that was separate from the powertrain the way I read it.
 
no I was not counting that. It said power train so was not figuring that. I was taking the separate warranty of 36000 miles at top. looked like that was separate from the powertrain the way I read it.
Read the second link I attached. It lists off the cap on parts and the process for warranty claims etc. seems like there’s some hoops you have to go through. If you’re going to do it make sure you have a good shop do the install.
no I was not counting that. It said power train so was not figuring that. I was taking the separate warranty of 36000 miles at top. looked like that was separate from the powertrain the way I read it.
Standard limit is $5k on the supercharger and $12500 on the extended warranty
 
are you going to get one?
I would but I seriously don’t trust boost on our factory pistons regardless of what Magnuson says. I’m curious how it all plays out for you. Keep us posted.
 
I want to upgrade it all. But after doing all the math I think getting Arrington but build a 426 ported polished /with better crank and Stroker kit is the way to go. But I am looking for a NON BGE Block. That is my game plan then take the 392 with very low miles and put it in my 2009 JKU. But money is tight with what all I have already done. I got to let my bank account setting a little. probably a 2025 project
 
I want to upgrade it all. But after doing all the math I think getting Arrington but build a 426 ported polished /with better crank and Stroker kit is the way to go. But I am looking for a NON BGE Block. That is my game plan then take the 392 with very low miles and put it in my 2009 JKU. But money is tight with what all I have already done. I got to let my bank account setting a little. probably a 2025 project
I think that’s a badass plan. I think the 426 would be a better plan over the supercharger but it’s not my Jeep and not my money.
 
Ive seen numerous people with Scat Pack Chargers or Challengers putting superchargers on the these motors. Some reporting up to 8 PSI of boost and running them for a year or longer without issues.

I have also read the flip side that this motor cant handle boost well, etc etc. Where is that evidence?

Not to be a drama llama, but I see more people running scat packs with blowers just fine than people saying they blew their 392 because of forced induction.

EDIT: Check this out:

Long story short. Theres a lot of evidence out there of people running super chargers on these 392s with stock internals of modest boost and when its tuned by someone that knows what they are doing, lasts with moderate gains.
 
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Ive seen numerous people with Scat Pack Chargers or Challengers putting superchargers on the these motors. Some reporting up to 8 PSI of boost and running them for a year or longer without issues.

I have also read the flip side that this motor cant handle boost well, etc etc. Where is that evidence?

Not to be a drama llama, but I see more people running scat packs with blowers just fine than people saying they blew their 392 because of forced induction.

EDIT: Check this out:

Long story short. Theres a lot of evidence out there of people running super chargers on these 392s with stock internals of modest boost and when its tuned by someone that knows what they are doing, lasts with moderate gains.
Kinda sorta related, but way back like 12 years ago, I was lifting my TJ for 35's. I'm not a mechanical guy at all so I was reading forums on what I needed to do and upgrade. I saw post after post saying I needed to swap my d35 rear bc it would snap pulling out of a parking lot if I had 35's. Local shop told me to do the lift and roll with the d35 and we'd find a d44 if it exploded. 12 years later and I still have the same d35 and it's fine.
 
Kinda sorta related, but way back like 12 years ago, I was lifting my TJ for 35's. I'm not a mechanical guy at all so I was reading forums on what I needed to do and upgrade. I saw post after post saying I needed to swap my d35 rear bc it would snap pulling out of a parking lot if I had 35's. Local shop told me to do the lift and roll with the d35 and we'd find a d44 if it exploded. 12 years later and I still have the same d35 and it's fine.
Yeah. Good off point. I am 100% in agreement where if you are trying to get HC numbers, don't forge the 392 and put a blower on it. Just get a HC swap. But, if you are okay with not chasing HC numbers, and want an easy 100 whp bolt on for 10k in parts and another 5k in misc costs to get it going, do it. Theres plenty of evidence that states around 5 PSI of boost is safe for this motor stock and it will have longevity. What will make all the difference is the tuner.
 
When I asked about boosting the 6.4, and questioned replacing pistons to be more boost friendly, I got a detailed response from Tyler Garrett.


…. so, to add boost, you really need rods and pistons. The factory crank can hold a ton of power so it's not really an issue. MMX has a nice drop in piston and rod package that requires no balancing of the factory crank shaft.

The next issue with the 6.4 in general (N/A or forced induction) is the MDS system. I highly suggest a cam swap and MDS delete while you're at it. If you plan on forced induction, one of the many Hellcat spec cams would work extremely well in a 6.4.

As for the blower itself, you can either buy a kit for the 392 or you could run the adapter plates and a hellcat blower. Keep in mind, the biggest difference between the hellcat heads and the 6.4 heads are the intake manifold bolt hole locations. When you put a hellcat blower on a 6.4 you're also limiting yourself to a 6 rib belt (hellcat has a 10 rib for the blower). And in the JL 392 has a high mounted alternator which may not work with the Hellcat blower. Me personally, I'd probably buy a kit from Whipple to be able to keep the hydro-guide hood stuff, and have everything needed to bolt it on, unless I was trying to make big big power. The limitations of the Whipple are mainly belt related. The balancer is too small to drive the blower fast enough for big boost, and even if it were bigger, belt slip is going to become a big issue very quickly. You can definitely make the 700 HP mark on a 6 rib, but if you wanted 800-900 you're not gonna make it without stepping up to an 8 or 10 rib belt.

There are more ways to achieve this though. The early 392 JL uses a TRX oil pan and can therefore accommodate a Hellcat timing cover with no problem. Then you can run a TRX alternator and mount and then be able to run an actual hellcat 10 rib belt drive... But you'd have to add an oil fill to the valve covers or swap to hellcat valve covers.

As you are starting to see, there are many ways to get there, but there are pros and cons to each.
 
All I know is that I'll be intently watching this thread in the upcoming weeks/months and hoping others do this. If it becomes more or less "common knowledge" that we can run 4.5-5lbs boost with a good tuner, than for ~15Kish or less I'd be all-in for another +/- 100HP on mine and the blower noise alone. Thank you to all the brave souls making this happen & sharing the info with the rest of us.. :p:cool:
 
The biggest unknown that I got from them is if it will work with the PSC ram / pulley. Nobody could tell me so I did not pull the trigger
 
Screenshot 2024-07-12 at 22.18.33.png
 
I’ve mentioned it before….its all going to come down to who tunes it and how hard it’s driven under extreme conditions (heat soak) I think you will definitely have to sort out the cooling issues that will go along with this.
 
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