AEV 2.5" vs MC 2.5" Gamechanger

[Bacon392]

I went with the AEV Dualsport XP with high capacity springs and remote reservoirs based on my prior experience with AEV on a JK.

I drives superbly on highway, can tow (a 22' Airstream) with it very well, as well as doing very well off road too.

BTW, I'm on 37's. It works with the standard 2024 392 wheels, so no wheel spacing is needed. The only additional change to the kit was using the Mopar lift lower control arms.

I'm curious why you added the arms given the kit comes with the drop brackets. Did you need more caster?

 

[Excaliburitto]

I'm curious why you added the arms given the kit comes with the drop brackets. Did you need more caster?

Good question. Prior to adding the suspension I kind'a hated how the 392 drove stock at high speeds. So doing the suspension and replacing the BFGs was a must for me.

So yes, the kit comes with the drop brackets, but so do most other kits. After reading everywhere online about the benefits of the Mopar LC arms, and reading that the XR (which the 2024 includes as standard) uses the same LC as the "normal" Rubicon, and seeing them in person that they were only probably 1cm longer than the OEMs, I thought "why not", and changed them. I did the suspension install myself, so that was the time to do it if I wanted to.

Here's my alignment:

 

[Argo392]

So you didn’t use the bracket in the kit right? I’m guessing you didn’t drive it with the bracket first and then switched it? Was going to see the difference it made.

 

[Excaliburitto]

So you didn’t use the bracket in the kit right? I’m guessing you didn’t drive it with the bracket first and then switched it? Was going to see the difference it made.

I did use the brackets. I used everything in the AEV kit + the Mopar LCA.

 

[Argo392]

I did use the brackets. I used everything in the AEV kit + the Mopar LCA.

Do you know if the shocks are specifically tuned for 392 when you get them? Also you think a steering stabilizer would benefit or no?

 

[Warped]

Old thread I know. I will be adding 37’s maybe 38’s will see what I decide but 37’s more than enough for me.

I’m looking at adding either AEV with high capacity and 8100 or Clayton overland or premium 2.5. Between these 2 anyone have an experience? I would like a more planet feel on road than stock

I’m in NC have taken it to Uwharrie in stock form and had no issues at all.

I have the 2.5" AEV Dual Sport with 38" Falken RTs with the 8100 shocks, but standard capacity springs. Drove it around the country this summer and can attest to how the AEV is better on road (but mine has the needed upgraded steering items from SteerSmart and other products that I can't remember) and off than factory. No experience with Clayton. The selling point for me for a Jeep that is 90+% on road was a sales guy that took me on a fast ride in a JK with AEV build. So much better than stock and he was wailing over speed bumps and curbing. I've had 2 Jeeps with the Dual Sport.

 

[Warped]

Do you know if the shocks are specifically tuned for 392 when you get them? Also you think a steering stabilizer would benefit or no?

Yes, AEV asks what motor you have, how many doors, etc. prior to purchasing to get you the right tuning.

JL 2.5"-3" DualSport RT Suspension | Jeep Wrangler JL Lift Kit

Enhance your Jeep Wrangler JL's performance with our AEV JL 2.5" to 3" DualSport RT Suspension lift kit. This kit is perfect for off-road enthusiasts.

www.aev-conversions.com

 

[Excaliburitto]

Also you think a steering stabilizer would benefit or no?

I have the OEM steering stabilizer (even though I have a Falcon one in the box ready to install) and feel no need to replace it.

The other BIG improvement for me was adding a full SteeringSmarts setup:
- Sector Shaft Brace With Frame Side Track Bar Reinforcement Bracket,
- Front Adjustable Track Bar,
- YETI XD™ Pro-Series Aluminum Tie Rod, and
- Drag Link with Griffin XD™ Attenuator

Before this I always had to micro-correct the steering to keep going straight on the highway. Also, the steering wheel had often be either at 11:55 at times or 12:05 some other times to track straight. Now it stays at 12:00 all the time and tracks perfectly straight. Not sure which exact component did the trick, but I suspect the Griffin or the Sector Shaft.

 

[Argo392]

I have the OEM steering stabilizer (even though I have a Falcon one in the box ready to install) and feel no need to replace it.

The other BIG improvement for me was adding a full SteeringSmarts setup:
- Sector Shaft Brace With Frame Side Track Bar Reinforcement Bracket,
- Front Adjustable Track Bar,
- YETI XD™ Pro-Series Aluminum Tie Rod, and
- Drag Link with Griffin XD™ Attenuator

Before this I always had to micro-correct the steering to keep going straight on the highway. Also, the steering wheel had often be either at 11:55 at times or 12:05 some other times to track straight. Now it stays at 12:00 all the time and tracks perfectly straight. Not sure which exact component did the trick, but I suspect the Griffin or the Sector Shaft.

Yeah I might have to do what you did I would like that same outcome.

 

[Argo392]

I have the 2.5" AEV Dual Sport with 38" Falken RTs with the 8100 shocks, but standard capacity springs. Drove it around the country this summer and can attest to how the AEV is better on road (but mine has the needed upgraded steering items from Steersmart) and off than factory. No experience with Clayton. The selling point for me for a Jeep that is 90+% on road was a sales guy that took me on a fast ride in a JK with AEV build. So much better than stock and he was wailing over speed bumps and curbing. I've had 2 Jeeps with the Dual Sport.

Awesome do you have any pictures with Falken 38’s? I have the same Falken RTs in 37x13.5 on the TRX and love them.

 

[Warped]

As requested @Argo392 . You can see the 8100 Bilstein/AEV tuned rear shocks in the second pic.

 

[Warped]

I have the OEM steering stabilizer (even though I have a Falcon one in the box ready to install) and feel no need to replace it.

The other BIG improvement for me was adding a full SteeringSmarts setup:
- Sector Shaft Brace With Frame Side Track Bar Reinforcement Bracket,
- Front Adjustable Track Bar,
- YETI XD™ Pro-Series Aluminum Tie Rod, and
- Drag Link with Griffin XD™ Attenuator

Before this I always had to micro-correct the steering to keep going straight on the highway. Also, the steering wheel had often be either at 11:55 at times or 12:05 some other times to track straight. Now it stays at 12:00 all the time and tracks perfectly straight. Not sure which exact component did the trick, but I suspect the Griffin or the Sector Shaft.

@Argo392 I have the full SteerSmarts set up, Yeti XD, and track bar. Ican't tell you what a difference these items made with steering stiffness and stability when going with 38s. I have the same ordered for the 37s I am putting on my 392.

 

[Captain Overkill]

@Argo392 I have the full SteerSmarts set up, Yeti XD, and track bar. Ican't tell you what a difference these items made with steering stiffness and stability when going with 38s. I have the same ordered for the 37s I am putting on my 392.

Why are you getting that set up again if it didn't make a difference? What am I missing here?

 

[Argo392]

As requested @Argo392 . You can see the 8100 Bilstein/AEV tuned rear shocks in the second pic.
View attachment 40582

View attachment 40583

38’s look perfect! Are these 13.5? Also are you rubbing are full flex anywhere with this set up?

 

[Warped]

Why are you getting that set up again if it didn't make a difference? What am I missing here?

Bad wording and no emotion. The difference was very noticeable. Driving my 392 on the interstate, it is squirming over the road similar to what my other Rubicon did right after I put 38s on it. It needs the firming up that the SteerSmarts & Yeti combo provides.

 

[Warped]

38’s look perfect! Are these 13.5? Also are you rubbing are full flex anywhere with this set up?

Yes, they are the 13.5 width. As far as flexing, ask me at the end of the month. Unfortunately, I missed 2 off-roading trips this summer due to health issues. Heading to KY & TN mid-October to test it out, but it should be good.

 

[Argo392]

Yes, they are the 13.5 width. As far as flexing, ask me at the end of the month. Unfortunately, I missed 2 off-roading trips this summer due to health issues. Heading to KY & TN mid-October to test it out, but it should be good.

Hope you feel better and have a good time later this month. Your set up didn’t level the front from the pictures is that right or just the angle?

 

[Ted392]

As requested @Argo392 . You can see the 8100 Bilstein/AEV tuned rear shocks in the second pic.
View attachment 40582

View attachment 40583

Interesting to see those tires fit with that fuel caddy.

 

[Excaliburitto]

38’s look perfect! Are these 13.5? Also are you rubbing are full flex anywhere with this set up?

With the AEV suspension there IS some rubbing at maximum articulation between the rear tires and the very rear of the plastic wheel well cowl. Not enough to destroy the covering immediately, but with enough repeat contact it could rip the wheel cover off.

That’s on 37x12.5 with standard Jeep rims, so it should be even more rubbing on 38s with similar setup. AEV itself recommends 37 max for this suspension.

 

[Warped]

With the AEV suspension there IS some rubbing at maximum articulation between the rear tires and the very rear of the plastic wheel well cowl. Not enough to destroy the covering immediately, but with enough repeat contact it could rip the wheel cover off.

That’s on 37x12.5 with standard Jeep rims, so it should be even more rubbing on 38s with similar setup. AEV itself recommends 37 max for this suspension.

Interesting. I didn't rub on 37s. The offset of the new wheels will aid in some of the possible clearance issues.