AEV 2.5" vs MC 2.5" Gamechanger

If it's more than geometry brackets and longer springs, what exactly is there? All of the the main components retain the factory suspension.

AEV:
Stock arms + joints
Stock F&R Track bars
Stock drag link

You do get F&R end links but thats a whoooole lotta factory parts.

I guess I will ask you this question in a different way:
Why does MC recommend a wheel with a 4.5 bs (4.75 absolute minimum) while AEV gets along just fine with a 5.72 bs?

I have a feeling this video demonstrates why:
You are looking at one dimension of a multidimensional question. AEV springs are not just longer, they are multi-rate, and stock doesn't equal bad, which is your insinuation here.

--S
 
@BilletWilson and @seanpholman y'all can keep this back and forth going for weeks bc I'm learning a lot. Thanks to you both!
LOL, I've said what I am going to say.

There are a lot of opinions out there and a lot of people (not saying this about @BilletWilson) on the forums who read a lot of opinions online and form theirs without any real world experience. All I can tell you is that I use my stuff and have a tremendous amount of experience across a vast number of platforms and products thanks to my day job, and I am happy to share that with whoever is interested in listening.

The most important thing is using your Jeep and enjoying it. The rest is all noise.

--S
 
LOL, I've said what I am going to say.

There are a lot of opinions out there and a lot of people (not saying this about @BilletWilson) on the forums who read a lot of opinions online and form theirs without any real world experience. All I can tell you is that I use my stuff and have a tremendous amount of experience across a vast number of platforms and products thanks to my day job, and I am happy to share that with whoever is interested in listening.

The most important thing is using your Jeep and enjoying it. The rest is all noise.

--S
Really appreciate it. You both have been awesome.

As someone that reads about Jeeps a lot and watches a lot of YT videos but hasn't ever turned a wrench in my life, my takeaway, right or wrong, is that AEV is best in class on road. It's perfectly capable off-road, but isn't going to blow away a flex test. Other lifts like MC will beat AEV on the trails. But for someone like me, I feel like AEV might be the best route to go. On road first, but still capable of doing anything I'll want to do off-road. Going to call my shop tomorrow and see if it's too late to cancel my Radlo shocks and just do the full AEV 8100 when it's back in stock.
 
Plus I really don't like that MC is a bunch of gold under the Jeep :ROFLMAO:
 
You are looking at one dimension of a multidimensional question. AEV springs are not just longer, they are multi-rate, and stock doesn't equal bad, which is your insinuation here.

--S
Stock = the feeling of a 1960's Buick with blowed out shocks. It's hard to argue that AEV is the best when most of the stock suspension is retained.

They excel as a turn key company, but when each Individual part is analyzed and compared to others they begin to fall flat.

Wheels are sweet looking but they're heavy, especially when mounted in a beadlock configuration, and have too much back space for quality suspensions that actually flex (MC, RK, EVO, Clayton, etc).

AEV retains factory joints. As we already discussed, this is probably the weakest link to their system. MC not only out flexes OEM, they're more durable, don't bind, are extremely easy for the end user to replace, and help smooth out micro vibrations on the road.

MC focuses on both down & UP travel. This is one of the main areas that set MC apart from the rest. Their springs are extremely long which is why their end links are around 12" in length. For example, If you want to run Fox shocks you would pair the 4"-6" lift units on a MC 3.5" in order to have shocks that are long enough.

MC includes F&R track bars that include duroflex joints as well as an optional draglink and tie rod. AEV again sticks with OEM for all 4 components.

Can anyone give an example of where the AEV outshines MC?
 
Stock = the feeling of a 1960's Buick with blowed out shocks. It's hard to argue that AEV is the best when most of the stock suspension is retained.

They excel as a turn key company, but when each Individual part is analyzed and compared to others they begin to fall flat.

Wheels are sweet looking but they're heavy, especially when mounted in a beadlock configuration, and have too much back space for quality suspensions that actually flex (MC, RK, EVO, Clayton, etc).

AEV retains factory joints. As we already discussed, this is probably the weakest link to their system. MC not only out flexes OEM, they're more durable, don't bind, are extremely easy for the end user to replace, and help smooth out micro vibrations on the road.

MC focuses on both down & UP travel. This is one of the main areas that set MC apart from the rest. Their springs are extremely long which is why their end links are around 12" in length. For example, If you want to run Fox shocks you would pair the 4"-6" lift units on a MC 3.5" in order to have shocks that are long enough.

MC includes F&R track bars that include duroflex joints as well as an optional draglink and tie rod. AEV again sticks with OEM for all 4 components.

Can anyone give an example of where the AEV outshines MC?
Nope, I have great relationships with both companies and I am not getting baited into pitting one against the other in a forum with someone who just wants to argue. I have not disparaged MC once or discounted their engineering, or quality of product in anything I've said in this post. I've said what needed to say and that was to correct your incorrect statements on the AEV kit's durability and capability. As I said before, it all comes down to use case and needs from your Jeep. So get what works for you and makes you happy and go enjoy your Jeep.

--S
 
Nope, I have great relationships with both companies and I am not getting baited into pitting one against the other in a forum with someone who just wants to argue. I have not disparaged MC once or discounted their engineering, or quality of product in anything I've said in this post. I've said what needed to say and that was to correct your incorrect statements on the AEV kit's durability and capability. As I said before, it all comes down to use case and needs from your Jeep. So get what works for you and makes you happy and go enjoy your Jeep.

--S
Who is arguing? The entire point of this post is to "discuss" AEV vs MC. Not to be neutral as to not "offend" a given company. If you can't openly discuss details of each kit why even participate in the conversation? A lot of these guys have no understanding of a suspension so they are asking for qualified feedback from those who do. Decisions to spend thousands of hard earned money are made based on feedback they receive so I personally have their best interest in mind and could care less if a manufactures feelings gets hurt. I own both and I'm definitely not afraid to speak of the differences. I also don't make any money selling these kits and have no relationships I need to tip toe around.

To sum up everything I've already posted, I would highly recommend anyone deciding between the two to get AEV & MC parts in your hands. Then you will quickly begin to realize and understand where the difference are.

AEV = OEM built to a price point.
MC = Built to be the best
 
@DarinFred @seanpholman Called today and spoke to Joe at AEV lol. Now I have to tlk to my local shop and see what it will cost me to back out of all the stuff he's ordered. I don't want to leave him hanging. I already have 37's and I already have 4.56 gears so I'd get a little refund on those but it looks the full kit would be $20k-22k or so plus shipping. That's mud flaps, bumpers, lift, wheels, etc. I know it seems silly but the badging is awesome to me. Sucks it can only be done there, I can't order it all and have it installed here. I get why they do that though.
 
@DarinFred @seanpholman Called today and spoke to Joe at AEV lol. Now I have to tlk to my local shop and see what it will cost me to back out of all the stuff he's ordered. I don't want to leave him hanging. I already have 37's and I already have 4.56 gears so I'd get a little refund on those but it looks the full kit would be $20k-22k or so plus shipping. That's mud flaps, bumpers, lift, wheels, etc. I know it seems silly but the badging is awesome to me. Sucks it can only be done there, I can't order it all and have it installed here. I get why they do that though.
Awesome. It was more $$$ than I ever planned on spending and I was a little hesitant. At first, it seemed silly to me as well, but it was the warranty and peace of mind knowing that it was engineered right (my opinion) and then built right that ended up sealing the deal for me. I wasn’t convinced, even after putting down the deposit, until I dropped it off and saw the operation. To each their own, but I love mine! You be won’t be disappointed.
 
Awesome. It was more $$$ than I ever planned on spending and I was a little hesitant. At first, it seemed silly to me as well, but it was the warranty and peace of mind knowing that it was engineered right (my opinion) and then built right that ended up sealing the deal for me. I wasn’t convinced, even after putting down the deposit, until I dropped it off and saw the operation. To each their own, but I love mine! You be won’t be disappointed.
My only hesitation, well other than it being a lot of cash, is that I'm really loyal to my local shop. As I've said several times, I'm not super knowledgeable about the mechanic of Jeeps. He's been really good to me for close to 15 years. I feel really awkward calling him to cancel the order we'd started to ship my Jeep to a different shop. That's a tough call for me to make.
 
Plus I really don't like that MC is a bunch of gold under the Jeep :ROFLMAO:
The gold on the MC goes nice with the bronze on the Jeep. I had AEV on my JK and it wheeled just fine (not a ton of super technical rocks though). I don't think you can go wrong either way. Only real concern I have with any of them is messing up pinion angle and ending up with vibrations from front driveshaft. Not even sure if that is a valid concern.

Leaving mine stock until I have to put new tires on it and will make decision then.
 
Just an FYI @dblplay1212:

If you don't like the gold on the MC system, there's several other systems of equal or greater quality (depending on opinions, as with everything) that might suit your tastes. Check out Clayton Offroad or Rock Krawler as examples.
 
Just an FYI @dblplay1212:

If you don't like the gold on the MC system, there's several other systems of equal or greater quality (depending on opinions, as with everything) that might suit your tastes. Check out Clayton Offroad or Rock Krawler as examples.
Appreciate this but I think I've made up my mind that I'm just going to send it to AEV. It's someting I've wanted to do every since they had the TJ Highline kit. Went to my shop this morning and he was super cool about it. He has to check on the Radflo shocks to see if they've started building them and if I'll have to eat those but whatever. MC + shocks + install would be like 12-14k and I wouldn't be all the way in love with it so better to just spend the money to get a full on AEV rig.
 
Appreciate this but I think I've made up my mind that I'm just going to send it to AEV. It's someting I've wanted to do every since they had the TJ Highline kit. Went to my shop this morning and he was super cool about it. He has to check on the Radflo shocks to see if they've started building them and if I'll have to eat those but whatever. MC + shocks + install would be like 12-14k and I wouldn't be all the way in love with it so better to just spend the money to get a full on AEV rig.
Right on man! I hope you enjoy it, AEV should work great for your use case!
 
It all comes down to use case and what you need out of the system, but you are over simplifying AEV's suspension. Its not just a geometry bracket and longer springs. And I have probably used my AEV 2.5 DS harder than just about anyone with a JL, so I will let you know that your comment that it "can't handle" and "nor hold up" in routine severe environments is absolutely untrue and disengenuous to the conversation. MC has an arguably better joint, depending on your use case, but not everything revolves around the joint... there is much more to a suspension than that. You can also put different joints/arms on the AEV kit if you wanted to.

Again, not discounting MC, I love the product, but also going to make sure that misinformation isn't out there about the AEV suspension since I have tens of thousands of off-road miles on them and my job, literally, is to educate people so they can pick the right setup for their ride and use case.

MC aside, AEV designs their stuff with a holistic approach. If you use their Bilstein shocks, their lift, and their wheels, with the recommended tire fitment, you are guaranteed an amazing ride, improved capability, no rubbing, and no noise. Take my experience for what its worth to you. Discount if you want.

--S
Can you add any of the Bilstein shocks with or without the 8100 upgrade as well as the steering shock to a stock 392 XR?
 
Can you add any of the Bilstein shocks with or without the 8100 upgrade as well as the steering shock to a stock 392 XR?
I am sure the steering stabilizer would be a bolt on, but no on the shocks, as the extended and collapsed lengths would be different since the coils aren't the same length (up travel would likely be fine, but there would be too much down travel, potentially dislodging the spring in extreme articulation), also, tuning would be off since the spring rate wouldn't be optimized (AEV uses a multi-rate spring, where "I think" the 392 is linear). Bilstein does make an 8100 smooth body with their own valving that I believe would work with a stock application. Their external tube bypass requires a lift over stock for the same reasons the AEV shocks do.

--S
 
Fwiw they said the XP kit is sold out on their site bc they can't get enough of the 8100 shocks from Billstein so they only allow in house builds to get them. So build with them, get the 8100, or do it yourself with the 5100.
 
Old thread I know. I will be adding 37’s maybe 38’s will see what I decide but 37’s more than enough for me.

I’m looking at adding either AEV with high capacity and 8100 or Clayton overland or premium 2.5. Between these 2 anyone have an experience? I would like a more planet feel on road than stock

I’m in NC have taken it to Uwharrie in stock form and had no issues at all.
 
Old thread I know. I will be adding 37’s maybe 38’s will see what I decide but 37’s more than enough for me.

I’m looking at adding either AEV with high capacity and 8100 or Clayton overland or premium 2.5. Between these 2 anyone have an experience? I would like a more planet feel on road than stock

I’m in NC have taken it to Uwharrie in stock form and had no issues at all.

I went with the AEV Dualsport XP with high capacity springs and remote reservoirs based on my prior experience with AEV on a JK.

I drives superbly on highway, can tow (a 22' Airstream) with it very well, as well as doing very well off road too.

BTW, I'm on 37's. It works with the standard 2024 392 wheels, so no wheel spacing is needed. The only additional change to the kit was using the Mopar lift lower control arms.
 
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