What did you do to your Jeep 392 today?

RonsAV

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Quadratec

Overtread 19052 Front Fender Air Vent LED Lights for 18-21 Jeep Wrangler JL & 2021 Gladiator JT​

One of the reviews mentioned using a Diode Dynamics to get two levels of light from same LED. . Purchased a pair of Diode Dynamics 2A LED PWM Dimmer with Bypass harnesses ($20) directly from Diode Dynamics.

Takes some time and a little homework, but definitely worth the effort.
 

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Shortcut

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2005 LJR; 2018 WKII TrackHawk & 2021 JLR392. "True Wrangler Unlimiteds Only Have 2 Doors"
Installed these vent LEDs. Low level for markers and high for turn signal. Look really nice and very happy with fit and finish. View attachment 1164
Do they impede airflow through the vents? AND, can they be set to be turn signals only?
 

Lulu

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Everything MOPAR
Anyone that is considering an engine dress-up, please share your ideas. I've been looking for a dress-up kit but can't seem to find any/many options.
We use American Car Craft for all of ours. They may not have anything yet for the 392, but Cam and his team make everything custom. Our Hellcats are all decked out.
 

RonsAV

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Do they impede airflow through the vents? AND, can they be set to be turn signals only?
There is no airflow through the lights. I have not noticed any cooling issues or rattling from these. I thought the same thing before I took the fender off, but there’s alot of airflow in that area so I proceeded.
To use them as turn signal only, just wire to turn signal circuit. No need for the Diode Dynamics piece.
 

jmwillia

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Not a big fan of these rock rails, rather have side steps lets see some pics of 392s with side steps.
 

CBH

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Since they are arriving at dealerships and a few members have already taken delivery. Tell us about your modifications, upgrades, repairs and customizations!
I saw these door lock plastic caps on etsy.com and said to myself, “why not protect my manual locks from salt, sand, water, ice, mud, debris?” They snapped on easily and firmly. Installation time: about 2 seconds per lock.

 

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CBH

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Not a big fan of these rock rails, rather have side steps lets see some pics of 392s with side steps.
I love the side steps -- much lighter than the rock rails (beware when removing them!); sturdy platforms for ingress/egress; helps keep road debris off the doors; IMO, the design flows well with the fenders; and I can reach the center of the roof and the windshield without standing in an open door. OK, no rock climbing for me here in Florida :)
 

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jmwillia

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I love the side steps -- much lighter than the rock rails (beware when removing them!); sturdy platforms for ingress/egress; helps keep road debris off the doors; IMO, the design flows well with the fenders; and I can reach the center of the roof and the windshield without standing in an open door. OK, no rock climbing for me here in Florida :)
What side steps are those?
 

BenLandry

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I mounted 2 pair of Rigid 4inch 360s on the cowls. It’s their first round series. I used GoRhino double mount. As per another thread on here I bought some M6 80mm bolts and also some 1 inch rubber washers to protect the paint under the mount. 2 of the lights beam are spot pattern and the other 2 are driving pattern. They have backlighting as well, mine are red. Used the Aux switches #1 for all 4 beams for now and #3 for the back lighting. I was worried the mounts wouldn’t be very sturdy but they are actually very sturdy and well made. No vibration at all this morning at 85 mph. Very very bright, seem to throw more light than my light bar on my JK. I ordered straight from Rigid but they didn’t have exactly what I ordered so they reached out to some of their 3rd party venders to fill my order. They look really good in person
 

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Sven

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What have I done to my 392 today? Since picking up my Hydro Blue baby in early June, I've been project managing a build in preparation for the Jeep Jamboree at the Black Hills of South Dakota, which starts this coming Thursday and planning for EJS in Moab next Spring.

The last week or so, I've been completing some final projects which are smaller (I'll cover those below) after taking care of some of the bigger projects in late August and early September:

Big projects:
  • Maximus-3 Geometry Correction 3.5" lift with Rock Krawler springs (standard in rear and their springs for the diesel up front to handle the additional weight). This M-3 kit comes with the Steer Smart flipped Drop Link and relocates the control arms' connection points, giving this Daily Driver a much tighter feel on the road and trails than the looser feel upfront from the stock 392 suspension. I fitted the Fox adjustable 2.5" shocks, with remote reservoirs up front mounted behind the factory (stubby) steel bumper.
  • Hutchison Rock Monster DOT approved beadlocks x 5 with 38.5" Patagonias - as always, the Rock Monsters are heavy and a pain in the butt, but the inner 5/8" rubber sleeve locks the bead and makes them totally worth it when you air-down for trails. I ran these on my '19 JLUR and '14 JKUR and while I may have another set media blasted and powdercoated dark bronze, the black ones look good pretty good.
  • To handle the heavy spare wheel and tire, I installed the Maximus-3 Rear Tire Carrier "Sport" which comes with a heavy duty 3/8" steel reinforcement plate that mounts inside of the void behind the passenger side tail light. The "Sport" version of the carrier comes with a mast to remount the OE 3rd brake light. I also installed the accessory holder to permanently mount a GMRS antenna (more on this below). Maximus-3 has continually improved and evolved this carrier since I installed my 1st one on my '19 JLUR. Their new stainless steel housing for the OE back-up camera is a piece of art. It peeks through the hub opening like you would expect, but it is super hardy and will take the abuse of mounting/unmounting the spare for 5-wheel tire rotations much better than their previous powdercoated design.
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In late August, I installed the Warn Xeon 10S with Spidura line (again, just like my '19 JLUR) on the Maximus-3 winch plate in the factory steel front bumper in stubby configuration. On this build I upgraded to the 1.75" thick Factor55 fairlead and a Commando Hook in Bronze. The hook is 2" thick and has removable pins to open the hook at either end for closed-loop recovery. I was able to find a pair of Baja Designs LR6s and I mounted them last month, but I wanted to use the factory aux switches and these lights have an amber back light (DRL) and both high and low beams, and if you don't use BD's special harness for upfitter use, you risk turning both high and low beams on at the same time and frying $900 worth of lights. The harness arrived Saturday along with a pair of Baja Designs Squadron S2s and their back-up light kit for the JL. I installed the back-up kit and the harness for the LR6s yesterday afternoon and then tucked and zip-tied the harnesses out of sight last night. These things throw out an amazing amount of light and the amber glow is pretty sinister. I ran the LR6 low beams to aux switch #3 and highbeams to switch #4 and then spliced the amber backlight to the DRLs- all very plug&play with the "upfitter" harness from BD, which has a pair of relays to prioritize the highbeams if both switches are "on" at the same time. The S2s are on switch #1 and I left switch #2 for my ARB dual compressor onboard air system, which I'll install Tuesday.
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Tonight I installed Midland's MXT275 GMRS radio kit.

These Jeep Jamboree events now require GMRS radios and while I've had a three pack of walkie style Midlands, I decided to install a hard-wired system with permanent antenna (stubby 3W antenna), which I mounted on my Maximus-3 Spare Tire Carrier on their specialized accessory mast (the little mast is shown in the photos below, but I haven't taken photos of the antenna or radio installed yet). I routed the antenna wire through the rubber grommit in the rear door and behind the Tuffy Security lock box, through the nylon wire organization sleeve and behind the interior body panel housing the subwoofer and then under the carpet and up to the base mounting location under the dash passenger side. I've temporarily installed the base plate with industrial velcro - not sure where I want this thing yet, as I've never run a CB or other permanently mounted radio before. I'm using the included cig lighter power adapter for now. Tonight I listened to the weather broadcast for Minneapolis and Rapid City. There weren't any folks talking in my neighborhood, but that was pretty cool.

Here's a pic of the Tuffy lock box, mounted against the inside of the tailgate. The instructions require the drilling of holes through the interior panel of the tailgate to allow aluminum spacer sleeves to pass through and into four mounting points in the tailgate. Those spacers also hang the lock box about 3/4" off of the inner panel and it looked weird on the YouTube videos I watched, so I called Tuffy and walked one of their product guys through an idea I had about not drilling holes in the interior panel at all. In fact, I didn't reinstall it. I trimmed rubber stoppers that I found at our local Hardware Hank, and sourced shorter bolts to mount the lock box nearly snug against the inside of the tailgate. I trimmed the rubber stoppers down to the right thickness and used a drill press to center the holes for the bolts which sandwich the rubber between the tailgate and the Tuffy lock box to eliminate squeaks. The tire carrier handles the added weight like a champ. The last photo shows some recovery gear, the remote for the winch and the hoses for my onboard air system, which I plan to store in the box. In a pinch, the lock box can open without opening the tailgate, if I'm stuck or upside down and need to access recovery gear, tools, winch remote, etc... Just hoping it never comes to that. The door also acts as a table and supports up to 40 pounds.
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Sorry to put all this in a single post. I'll update you guys with posts and action shots from Deadwood, SD next weekend!

Sven
 
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