Oil Filter Adapter Leak

I placed an oil funnel between the tie rod and the axle. It is a long one for transmission fluid. Then I position it directly under the oil filter and ensure it drains into the drip pan. I first tried tin foil but it didn't work well and the clean up always got oil everywhere after. The next time I do the oil change, I will take pics and post them for yall.
 
I placed an oil funnel between the tie rod and the axle. It is a long one for transmission fluid. Then I position it directly under the oil filter and ensure it drains into the drip pan. I first tried tin foil but it didn't work well and the clean up always got oil everywhere after. The next time I do the oil change, I will take pics and post them for yall.
I've been contemplating a shield/guide that clamps to the tie rod or drag link, or maybe attaches magnetically to something under there to keep the oil from getting everywhere.

Still just an idea, but my 1st oil change is nigh.
 
there are a lot of ways but This one works for me. I will be doing it this weekend so I will post it all for everyone's entertainment and criticism lol
 
Here's probably a dumb question. But does anyone know if there is a remote oil filter kit that could be installed so that the filter would be more accessible, and maybe even have a dual remote set up? I ran a dual remote set up about 20 years ago and it seemed to be great at keeping the oil clean? I had it routed to a spot up on the frame that was out of the way and it was cake to get the filters off without making a mess.
 
Got it swapped. Most annoying part is the lack of room to remove the pinch clamps on the coolant lines. I bought some cheap hose clamping pliers off Amazon to keep tension on the cooling lines while I removed the old adapter.All in all about a 1.5 hour job taking my time. FYI the three small bolts holding the adapter to the block were barely tight. I found a similar thread on a Ram forum where it showed torquing them down to 108 inch lbs.
These pictures are awesome. My housing is leaking at the 3 bolt heads. So I assume that my o-rings are not sealing the housing. I would like to just pull the housing and replace the o-rings.

Do you think I could source just the o-rings? Thanks for your help!
 
I think I found them

You probably could just swap the O-Rings. Check further up the block…just above the adapter, there’s two small plugs that tend to also seep oil. It could also be those plugs seeping and dripping down the adapter.
 
You probably could just swap the O-Rings. Check further up the block…just above the adapter, there’s two small plugs that tend to also seep oil. It could also be those plugs seeping and dripping down the adapter.
I have been figuring this out the for a bit. Plugs are not leaking. Can see oil build up on the heads of the 8mm bolts sitting at idle. Kind of little bubbles or spurts can be seen on 2 of the 3 bolts. I keep the rest of the area spotless because of your experience with the plugs, I was watching those and they stay clean.

Last question on the swap. Can I leave all the hoses attached and do the o-ring swap? Will I get enough room to pull them out and replace?
 
I have been figuring this out the for a bit. Plugs are not leaking. Can see oil build up on the heads of the 8mm bolts sitting at idle. Kind of little bubbles or spurts can be seen on 2 of the 3 bolts. I keep the rest of the area spotless because of your experience with the plugs, I was watching those and they stay clean.

Last question on the swap. Can I leave all the hoses attached and do the o-ring swap? Will I get enough room to pull them out and replace?
Yes, I’m pretty sure it can be done without disconnecting the coolant lines. I just decided to swap the entire thing. Be careful on torque when you reinstall it’s in inch pounds on those three bolts.
 
Yes, I’m pretty sure it can be done without disconnecting the coolant lines. I just decided to swap the entire thing. Be careful on torque when you reinstall it’s in inch pounds on those three bolts.
Thanks! I made sure they were 76in/lbs first. Still leaking…
 
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Ok last question @Robr651, do you think some thread sealant on the bolts might help till my next oil change in a few months? Leaks drive me crazy! The adapter has a little thickness, so wondered if I could slow or stop it by pulling each bolt one by one and seal them with some thread sealant?
 
Ok last question @Robr651, do you think some thread sealant on the bolts might help till my next oil change in a few months? Leaks drive me crazy! The adapter has a little thickness, so wondered if I could slow or stop it by pulling each bolt one by one and seal them with some thread sealant?
I put blue lock tite on them. If I remember correctly that’s what was on them from the factory.
 
Ok last question @Robr651, do you think some thread sealant on the bolts might help till my next oil change in a few months? Leaks drive me crazy! The adapter has a little thickness, so wondered if I could slow or stop it by pulling each bolt one by one and seal them with some thread sealant?
I would use some yellow Teflon tape (oil resistant). Use such on the oil pan drain plug each time I changed oil.
 
Have this already. Going to try it first. I have the o-rings on order.

That’s what I used on the two threaded plugs above the adapter. I’m pretty sure the three bolts on the adapter itself don’t need it, but it wouldn’t hurt. The O rings make the seal. The cure time on the stuff you posted is pretty long FYI. Works great though.
 
That’s what I used on the two threaded plugs above the adapter. I’m pretty sure the three bolts on the adapter itself don’t need it, but it wouldn’t hurt. The O rings make the seal. The cure time on the stuff you posted is pretty long FYI. Works great though.
Just hoping to slow down the leak somehow. But assuming that it won’t help. I can’t figure out why the heads of the bolts get oil around them. It should leak out the sides, but it doesn’t. I’m assuming that the o-rings are not sealing. The oil bubbles around the bolt heads when the engine is running. But no oil reaches the edge of the adapter and runs off the sides.

I don’t think the bolts run out thru the block into oil, so nothing really to seal. But I tried :( . I hope new o-rings will cure it. Will swap them next oil change.
 
Just hoping to slow down the leak somehow. But assuming that it won’t help. I can’t figure out why the heads of the bolts get oil around them. It should leak out the sides, but it doesn’t. I’m assuming that the o-rings are not sealing. The oil bubbles around the bolt heads when the engine is running. But no oil reaches the edge of the adapter and runs off the sides.

I don’t think the bolts run out thru the block into oil, so nothing really to seal. But I tried :( . I hope new o-rings will cure it. Will swap them next oil change.
The O-rings should technically make the seal. They fit into a small groove machined into the adapter. If it was installed wrong from the factory or there’s a small defect on the mating surface, I could see how they would get pinched / potentially fail. Mine felt rough in a few spots (top O-Ring). I had a very small amount of oil on the bolts when I pulled them too which I attributed to the top seal failing. I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt to apply some sealant on the bolt threads, but if that O-Ring does its job it shouldn’t really matter. The full cure time on the sealant you posted I believe is 72 hours. It worked amazing on the threads for the two plugs above the adapter, but I gave it the full cure time to make sure. If you run into any headaches along the way PM me.
 
Closing the loop on this. @Robr651 was totally correct and my leak was the plugs in the block above the oil filter adapter. I just snuggled up the bottom plug and my leak is better(Not gonna jinx it….)

The top plug is not accessible without removing/cutting a couple of wire ties. So I did not snug up the top plug. Not needed yet. But if you have oil around the oil filter housing you need to check those plugs. My lower plug was basically finger tight.
 

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