Had to Jump Battery for 10th time, now 8" display and radio dead

[Kirt]

I would of parked it at the dealership on Saturday nite and had them work on it the next week when it was acting up...

 

[5h4g]

I have a 21 392. Best investment was a reliable AGM battery tender. Keeps those batteries going 3-5 years longer. Plus invest in a Norelco USB jump starter. Just my .02

Ironically I've had my plugged in nightly for over a year. it's installed under the cowl, and I hung an extension cord from ceiling so I just plug it in every time I park it.

As an update - went to jump it and drive it to dealership to get it looked at (recall the 8" display and AC were both out). Well, it would start up but could not keep the battery alive after unplugging the brick charger. After 5th try, was able to get 3 blocks down the road but at the first stop sign, died.
So, am getting it towed.

I think it is either or both a) the AMP Research steps (AI suggests these are known to have a parasitic draw in this application...but who knows) and/or b) the alternator just isn't charging the battery.

on the upside? the time I got it to stay alive for 3 blocks, the 8" display and AC decided to work again. smh.

I have them looking into a death wobble too, so had to take it to them anyway. Let's see what they say (will be towed tomorrow am)

My smol-brained plan:

1) order a new alternator from Apex (and pully/ground, etc. if needed)
2) if they don't replace battery, grab the optimus
3) disconnect the AMP-research steps (bought the jeep with them already on, but I don't personally benefit from them)

 

[Phil921]

I hate all of the problems you're having... Doesnt seem like its the AMP steps if they've been on since you got it and i know a few people whove had them for awhile with no issue.... go ahead and order the APEX and get the Optima or Odyssey for the win. Your time and frustration does cost something.

I'm on my 2nd OEM alternator and if it so much as whiffs of going out I'm calling the APEX guys.

If the Dealer can't handle the death wobble, find a good 4x4 shop and move on IMHO... its all sunk cost at this point anyway.

Good luck

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

I hate all of the problems you're having... Doesnt seem like its the AMP steps if they've been on since you got it and i know a few people whove had them for awhile with no issue.... go ahead and order the APEX and get the Optima or Odyssey for the win. Your time and frustration does cost something.

I'm on my 2nd OEM alternator and if it so much as whiffs of going out I'm calling the APEX guys.

If the Dealer can't handle the death wobble, find a good 4x4 shop and move on IMHO... its all sunk cost at this point anyway.

Good luck

Which Apex would you suggest?

 

[Phil921]

Which Apex would you suggest?

I haven't researched enough recently to know at this point, but I'd give them a call and have them help you walk through it. I spoke to them about a year ago when i waited 6wks for an alternator from the dealer, but all my notes are at the office. Even in the event the dealer replaces your alternator, at least you'll know what you need if you have to go that route (or if they are still on forever backorder)

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

I haven't researched enough recently to know at this point, but I'd give them a call and have them help you walk through it. I spoke to them about a year ago when i waited 6wks for an alternator from the dealer, but all my notes are at the office. Even in the event the dealer replaces your alternator, at least you'll know what you need if you have to go that route (or if they are still on forever backorder)

My discussion with them last week is below when I started chasing the electrical gremlins. Lead time is 5 days to ship

We have a few different options for this vehicle. I'll list them below, they're all direct bolt ons/plug and play.


310 amp large case 6 phase hairpin $479
(240-250 amps at idle)

370 amp large case 6 phase hairpin $509
(220 amps at idle)

410 amp large case 6 phase hairpin $539
(220 amps idle output)

Shipping is FREE in the United States.

Powdercoating is $30 additional cost in any color.

Warranty is two years warranty on parts/lifetime on labor.

To place an order we will need to send an invoice when you're ready to your email.

We accept Debit or credit card/Paypal/Venmo/Apple pay.

 

[Phil921]

My discussion with them last week is below when I started chasing the electrical gremlins. Lead time is 5 days to ship

Do they have a recommendation for your rig setup (step, offroad lights, steps. Gear, etc)? When I spoke to them I walked them through what I had/intended for draw.

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

Do they have a recommendation for your rig setup (step, offroad lights, steps. Gear, etc)? When I spoke to them I walked them through what I had/intended for draw.

I emailed him earlier tonight about just that and will let you know

 

[@WhiteBronze392]

Do they have a recommendation for your rig setup (step, offroad lights, steps. Gear, etc)? When I spoke to them I walked them through what I had/intended for draw.

He recommended 370A

 

[5h4g]

He recommended 370A

I'm going with the 370A. The tl-dr is that if your jeep spends 'most of its time' below 1200 rpms when using the most draw, then the 310A might be a better choice. But for normal driving and to best future-proof in case you add more and more load/accessories over time, the 370A might be the best choice.

Nicholas is absolutely fantastic to communicate with, as others have mentioned here in the past. everything plug and play, just make sure to tension the belt more to account for the smaller pulley. I might do this install myself...seems pretty straight forward. Just mind the fingers when removing the belt when uninstalling the factory unit.

For reference, my jeep has:
- AMP research powered steps
- 9500 Winch
- cowl lights (on aux)
- led light bar (on aux)
- LED reverse lights (on aux)
- soft top powered roof (factory)
- Alpine sub option (factory)

Either the 310 or 370 works.
There is also a 410 amp large case 6 phase hairpin option that puts out 220 amps idle output if you really need it (I don't).

Powdercoating available for additional, in any color scheme.

again, can't say enough about how great Nic is. Will report back after install.

 

[5h4g]

For anyone following along (and ty to those that provided such great info) an update:
After the dealer having the jeep for over a month, they replaced the PDC saying a relay had fried underneath it (not replaceable so whole PDC was replaced). Also installed a new battery. Drove great for a day. let it sit for 1.5 days and tried starting it and it took the starter a good 20 seconds of churn before she turned over...not a great sign. Looked into lemon laws etc. Then decided to just attack it on my own.

I'm delighted and embarrassed to say that I thought I had long since disconnected my taser (physically, but not unmarried). Turns out I had left it in for some of the 'live' features. ALSO turns out (thank you Perplexity AI) that the specific version of firmware I was running had a bug that left quite a few circuits on resulting aggressive parasitic drain. (there's dozens of firmware images and I happen to be running the ONLy one that had this bug lol).

Updated firmware to latest. Did the double reset procedure. Decided to physically disconnect it (but left married) to rule it out as a draw.

So far Jeep has been running and starting up strong like a HEMI should.

Last remaining gremlin (hopefully): the UConnect display is not working now.
Tried holding the power button 15 seconds. Also tried power + tune buttons at same time for 15 seconds. Checked F105 fuse and its seating, all good. Not sure what else to do or check. Guessing is related to the tazer tomfoolery and possibly user error on a setting or the reset cycle procedure, but I followed the directions to a T.

really don't like having it when I reversing in parking lots etc...

 

[Bobo57]

Ironically I've had my plugged in nightly for over a year. it's installed under the cowl, and I hung an extension cord from ceiling so I just plug it in every time I park it.

As an update - went to jump it and drive it to dealership to get it looked at (recall the 8" display and AC were both out). Well, it would start up but could not keep the battery alive after unplugging the brick charger. After 5th try, was able to get 3 blocks down the road but at the first stop sign, died.
So, am getting it towed.

I think it is either or both a) the AMP Research steps (AI suggests these are known to have a parasitic draw in this application...but who knows) and/or b) the alternator just isn't charging the battery.

on the upside? the time I got it to stay alive for 3 blocks, the 8" display and AC decided to work again. smh.

I have them looking into a death wobble too, so had to take it to them anyway. Let's see what they say (will be towed tomorrow am)

My smol-brained plan:

1) order a new alternator from Apex (and pully/ground, etc. if needed)
2) if they don't replace battery, grab the optimus
3) disconnect the AMP-research steps (bought the jeep with them already on, but I don't personally benefit from them)

Amp steps are probably your biggest parasitic drain.

 

[5h4g]

Amp steps are probably your biggest parasitic drain.

had been thinking the same, although during this whole process, I did run with them disconnected for a solid two weeks and still had the drain. I've since heard from a few others here that others run them without issue/drain. But no matter how you cut it they draw every time you open the door before the motors on...so if not the primary drain, easily then nail in the coffin as the battery gets to EOL

 

[Bobo57]

had been thinking the same, although during this whole process, I did run with them disconnected for a solid two weeks and still had the drain. I've since heard from a few others here that others run them without issue/drain. But no matter how you cut it they draw every time you open the door before the motors on...so if not the primary drain, easily then nail in the coffin as the battery gets to EOL

I was going to buy a set but then I found out about the constant drain to keep them active for immediate operation. I spoke with the company and they said the parasitic draw was minimum 100 ma. That’s on top of the standard draws for the jeep. Without charging that kills the battery in 2 weeks best case.

 

[5h4g]

I was going to buy a set but then I found out about the constant drain to keep them active for immediate operation. I spoke with the company and they said the parasitic draw was minimum 100 ma. That’s on top of the standard draws for the jeep. Without charging that kills the battery in 2 weeks best case.

great info. translation for me I guess;

when it's in daily driver mode, run the steps, use the NOCO trickle charger.

when going OR, camping, or parking at the airport, disco the the two power connectors for the steps... luckily very easy to access and physically disconnect.