Which control arm skids?

Cali392JL · Dec 31, 2023

I have a 2022, 392JLU running a metalcloak 3 1/2 inch lift, all metal cloak steering with fox ATS, and a few other goodies. I've been focusing on armor lately and have the metalcloak, skid plate, rockhard sliders, metalcloak differential skids, and now I want to add control arm skids. From what I am reading, the Weldon skids can make it difficult to remove the control arms for servicing. I was leaning toward Bolt on skids, but from what I have heard the rock hard Bolt on skids frequently, have issues with properly, locking down the control arm with the bolt pinch force. I'm wondering if people know of any other options that work well, I would consider weld on if people can chime in and alleviate my concerns about removal and servicing of the control arms easily.

I am wanting to put skids on both the front and rear's however, in the rears, I am running the metalcloak lower shock relocation bracket. Most of the Bolton skids I see you for the back also include provisions for the shock mound, but mine is no longer in that same position, and I would like to have something that only protects the control arm. Appreciate any heads up if people are aware of some thing that would work well.

prodriquez · Dec 31, 2023

Based on your setup, I would do the front and simply replace the rear mounts when they wear out. This may sound shocking- but shock and control arm mounts are really cheap to replace

I ran the Rock Hard front control arm skids and they worked fine. The biggest challenge was getting everything to line back up so we could run the bolts back through the control arms. Total PITA… but a few well placed straps and an extended length jack got-er-done. I never did my rears because I was using Evo’s coilover mount. Now I’m on Currie Platinums and my shock mounts are custom and I don’t run control arm skids.

Alternatively, move to 1 tons and 40’s. I guarantee you’ll scrape a lot less!

Cali392JL · Dec 31, 2023

Thanks for the reply. You’ve got a super flexible rig, I like it! I think the day will come when I eventually have Dana 60 axles or better and 40s but I’m definitely going to work the hell out of these ones first. When I wear out the 37s, I may even try to see how long the Dana, 44 will push 40s. Glad to hear someone someone has used the rock hard skids successfully. I will give them a try or bite the bullet and weld some on.

7.62x392 · Dec 31, 2023

prodriquez said:
Based on your setup, I would do the front and simply replace the rear mounts when they wear out. This may sound shocking- but shock and control arm mounts are really cheap to replace

I ran the Rock Hard front control arm skids and they worked fine. The biggest challenge was getting everything to line back up so we could run the bolts back through the control arms. Total PITA… but a few well placed straps and an extended length jack got-er-done. I never did my rears because I was using Evo’s coilover mount. Now I’m on Currie Platinums and my shock mounts are custom and I don’t run control arm skids.

Alternatively, move to 1 tons and 40’s. I guarantee you’ll scrape a lot less!

View attachment 29527

That’s some serious flex!

prodriquez · Jan 1, 2024

7.62x392 said:
That’s some serious flex!

Thanks, clearing a 40” tire AND being flexible WHILE maintaining a low center of gravity was not an easy thing…. I had to change out my skid system and rock rails, move some mounts, and notch my frame for shock clearance. I also had to change out 6 of 8 springs on my King coilovers, adjust nitrogen pressure, and dial in my bumps. Oh, I also added a Front Antirock, sometime after these changes, to handle the body roll at highway speeds. Previously, I ran completely disconnected and didn’t have problems.

Here are a few more picks that High Country Performance 4x4 took after they got it dialed in for me. They have a custom fab shop/guy (John) and he did an amazing job working out the steering and clearance issues!

Earl 392 · Jan 1, 2024

prodriquez said:
Based on your setup, I would do the front and simply replace the rear mounts when they wear out. This may sound shocking- but shock and control arm mounts are really cheap to replace

I ran the Rock Hard front control arm skids and they worked fine. The biggest challenge was getting everything to line back up so we could run the bolts back through the control arms. Total PITA… but a few well placed straps and an extended length jack got-er-done. I never did my rears because I was using Evo’s coilover mount. Now I’m on Currie Platinums and my shock mounts are custom and I don’t run control arm skids.

Alternatively, move to 1 tons and 40’s. I guarantee you’ll scrape a lot less!

View attachment 29527

I like it

Earl 392 · Jan 1, 2024

Cali392JL said:
I have a 2022, 392JLU running a metalcloak 3 1/2 inch lift, all metal cloak steering with fox ATS, and a few other goodies. I've been focusing on armor lately and have the metalcloak, skid plate, rockhard sliders, metalcloak differential skids, and now I want to add control arm skids. From what I am reading, the Weldon skids can make it difficult to remove the control arms for servicing. I was leaning toward Bolt on skids, but from what I have heard the rock hard Bolt on skids frequently, have issues with properly, locking down the control arm with the bolt pinch force. I'm wondering if people know of any other options that work well, I would consider weld on if people can chime in and alleviate my concerns about removal and servicing of the control arms easily.

I am wanting to put skids on both the front and rear's however, in the rears, I am running the metalcloak lower shock relocation bracket. Most of the Bolton skids I see you for the back also include provisions for the shock mound, but mine is no longer in that same position, and I would like to have something that only protects the control arm. Appreciate any heads up if people are aware of some thing that would work well.

I’m running Rusty’s in the rear I like how they fit. But you would only get to use the frame side with your setup

TRMFAM · Jan 2, 2024

I run the next venture bolt in rear with the replaceable plastic skids. Happy with them so far but the trip to Hot Springs the rock there really tore one of them. I need to order the new plastic piece or just roll with the metal.

I am in same boat for fronts. Not excited about welding them on so have nothing so far.

Earl 392 · Jan 2, 2024

TRMFAM said:
I run the next venture bolt in rear with the replaceable plastic skids. Happy with them so far but the trip to Hot Springs the rock there really tore one of them. I need to order the new plastic piece or just roll with the metal.

I am in same boat for fronts. Not excited about welding them on so have nothing so far.

I would like to see rock hard ca skids in person b4 I commit. The idea is great others have had good experiences some have not

prodriquez · Jan 2, 2024

Earl 392 said:
I would like to see rock hard ca skids in person b4 I commit. The idea is great others have had good experiences some have not

Apologies for my ignorance… but what problems are people having? I ran their front control arm skids, back when I was on D44’s, and the design couldn’t be more simple, installation requires only basic tools, and they didn’t bind or interfere with any articulation.

Here is the link for those unfamiliar with the product.

Rock Hard 4x4™ Bolt-On Front and Rear Lower Control Arm Skid Plates for Jeep Wrangler JL 2018 - Current [RH-90515]

www.rockhard4x4.com

Earl 392 · Jan 3, 2024

prodriquez said:
Apologies for my ignorance… but what problems are people having? I ran their front control arm skids, back when I was on D44’s, and the design couldn’t be more simple, installation requires only basic tools, and they didn’t bind or interfere with any articulation.

Here is the link for those unfamiliar with the product.

Rock Hard 4x4™ Bolt-On Front and Rear Lower Control Arm Skid Plates for Jeep Wrangler JL 2018 - Current [RH-90515]

www.rockhard4x4.com

They were complaining about the skid clanking Or rotating back and forth from forward to reverse. m16 bolt 5/8. I called Rock Hard they were familiar with my question. They said as their instructions say to do torque to 190 foot lbs. as I have stated before that’s over torque even for a fine thread grade 8 bolt. Add zink coating add thread locker And you are way over tourque.Please make no mistake they make great products I had front and rear bumpers and tire carrier on my LJ for 12 years never a problem. They are the only front bolt on C A skid and that just my be what I go with. I just like to research my options. I’m not sure if they use fine or coarse thread bolts. It hard to tell it looks like the washers are just stamped not grade8 zink coated. Any body know.

Cali392JL · Jan 3, 2024

As @Earl 392 has pointed out, the issue is that the skid, and the spacers can be loose, even when torqued. People have complained that their control arms, or the skid plate itself do not get pinched sufficiently to prevent rattling or knocking. I am not sure if this is some thing that happens frequently, or just to one or two people that have mentioned it. I would use them if I knew it was unlikely that really happen.

prodriquez · Jan 3, 2024

Interesting and thanks for the info. I still have my front skids kicking around in my garage… I’ll check the tolerances against my wife’s Jeep and report back.

guruman · Jan 4, 2024

I don't have these skids, but in the past I've been able to solve situations like this by inserting an o-ring into the assembly. When tightened down the o-ring get compressed a bit keeping it from rattling.

Adding a rubber washer, or swapping in a sealing washer might do the same thing... or maybe adding a dab of rtv?

Earl 392 · Jan 4, 2024

prodriquez said:
Interesting and thanks for the info. I still have my front skids kicking around in my garage… I’ll check the tolerances against my wife’s Jeep and report back.

Could you post an up close picture of hardware. Thanks

in the link picture you sent there are no washers on the assembled skids and appears as there is no room for them.I realize that it’s just a website picture and may not be Accurate..

prodriquez · Jan 5, 2024

Earl 392 said:
Could you post an up close picture of hardware. Thanks

in the link picture you sent there are no washers on the assembled skids and appears as there is no room for them.I realize that it’s just a website picture and may not be Accurate..

Earl 392 · Jan 5, 2024

prodriquez said:
View attachment 29714

Thank- you

Maxx · Jan 9, 2024

Cali392JL said:
As @Earl 392 has pointed out, the issue is that the skid, and the spacers can be loose, even when torqued. People have complained that their control arms, or the skid plate itself do not get pinched sufficiently to prevent rattling or knocking. I am not sure if this is some thing that happens frequently, or just to one or two people that have mentioned it. I would use them if I knew it was unlikely that really happen.

I think this is a common problem no matter what brand you end up getting. Front or rear. Had similar issues installing Next Venture Motorsports Rear control arm/shock skids. One side used All 4 provided washers, the other side only 2 on the shock bolts for a tight fit. One of the skid sides was actually welded with a 10* cant that had to be hammered out in order to fit and align the bolt holes. Torqued control arm bolts to 100 ft.llbs. Torqued shock bolts to 74 ft.lbs.

Here’s a useful link for JL torque specs: