What needs upgrading on a 392

stumblinhorse

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Location
Colorado
Current Rides
2021 JLUR 392
I was asked what I thought “needs“ to be upgraded on a 392. I didn’t want to hijack that thread so here is a new thread. These, in my mind, are needs, not just wants. These left as is will cause headaches to you as a Jeep owner. This is not a long list, so nothing that is controversial.

1. Longer or adjustable control arms on front. Because the 392 is the most lifted wrangler from the factory, it needs longer control arms. This should come from the factory, but it doesn’t. Left as is will make the caster be lower than it should be for acceptable handling. Many will say that “my 392 handles great!” My answer is that is because you haven’t driven one with this upgrade…. Even the mopar 2” lift comes with longer control arms. So why the 392 didn’t get them, cost.

2. Fender liners. Unless you drive where there is no atmosphere, like the moon or in space, you will have a problem with the stock fender liners. They will get soft and come in contact with the wheel. That will pretty much destroy them. Again, many will say, “my 392 didn’t have a problem”. If you haven’t it is pure luck.

3. Tpms adjustment. You will need something to lower the factory required 37 psi. 37 psi is too much pressure in any tires that comes on a 392. 392s should be set to about 30 psi cold, depending on how cold is cold in your area:). This will get you to about 35-36 hot psi. That is about as high as you ever want. But setting to 30 cold will trigger the warning until you get back to 37!

strongly recommended upgrade.
1. Steering stabilizer. Ridiculous that they upgrades to better shocks, fox/mopar depending on model But then It has a $5 stabilizer on it. You don’t need to spend $500 on the top of the line. But get something better.

Hope the helps new buyers.
 
I was asked what I thought “needs“ to be upgraded on a 392. I didn’t want to hijack that thread so here is a new thread. These, in my mind, are needs, not just wants. These left as is will cause headaches to you as a Jeep owner. This is not a long list, so nothing that is controversial.

1. Longer or adjustable control arms on front. Because the 392 is the most lifted wrangler from the factory, it needs longer control arms. This should come from the factory, but it doesn’t. Left as is will make the caster be lower than it should be for acceptable handling. Many will say that “my 392 handles great!” My answer is that is because you haven’t driven one with this upgrade…. Even the mopar 2” lift comes with longer control arms. So why the 392 didn’t get them, cost.

2. Fender liners. Unless you drive where there is no atmosphere, like the moon or in space, you will have a problem with the stock fender liners. They will get soft and come in contact with the wheel. That will pretty much destroy them. Again, many will say, “my 392 didn’t have a problem”. If you haven’t it is pure luck.

3. Tpms adjustment. You will need something to lower the factory required 37 psi. 37 psi is too much pressure in any tires that comes on a 392. 392s should be set to about 30 psi cold, depending on how cold is cold in your area:). This will get you to about 35-36 hot psi. That is about as high as you ever want. But setting to 30 cold will trigger the warning until you get back to 37!

strongly recommended upgrade.
1. Steering stabilizer. Ridiculous that they upgrades to better shocks, fox/mopar depending on model But then It has a $5 stabilizer on it. You don’t need to spend $500 on the top of the line. But get something better.

Hope the helps new buyers.
I agree 100% with this, mine does not handle great, and I blew out the fender liners on the way home from the dealer.
 
Some of these apply to the 392 with the XR package. Some may apply to both (maybe only #3), but lucky or not, I have not experienced any of them with my non-XR 392. My steering wheel was off by about 1-2 degrees, but it did not pull to either side. My dealer still did an alignment and everything is great, including caster.
 
1. Longer or adjustable control arms on front. Because the 392 is the most lifted wrangler from the factory, it needs longer control arms. This should come from the factory, but it doesn’t. Left as is will make the caster be lower than it should be for acceptable handling. Many will say that “my 392 handles great!” My answer is that is because you haven’t driven one with this upgrade…. Even the mopar 2” lift comes with longer control arms. So why the 392 didn’t get them, cost.
IMG_2727.jpg
So you got me thinking. :unsure: I went out a took a picture of the part # on my lower control arms on my standard 392. I have Mopar# 68250242AB. They list for $159 each. The 2" Mopar lift uses Mopar# 68322798AA control arms which list for $44.65 each. I think they both cost FCA about the same to make so I don't think it was cost. I am guessing the engineers came up with this geometry for a reason. But I am sure as you and @hardhat discussed in this post adding caster has improved the on center steering feel. It's a cheep and easy upgrade as a pair of 68322798AA can be bought for about $60 total. I may give it a try it and see how it feels. If someone with a 392XR wants to take a picture of their control arm part number I would be curious if it is different.
 
Some of these apply to the 392 with the XR package. Some may apply to both (maybe only #3), but lucky or not, I have not experienced any of them with my non-XR 392. My steering wheel was off by about 1-2 degrees, but it did not pull to either side. My dealer still did an alignment and everything is great, including caster.
These are not model specific. Doesn’t matter. Control arms are the same part. Fender liners are same and psi setting is the same.
 
These are not model specific. Doesn’t matter. Control arms are the same part. Fender liners are same and psi setting is the same.
But the XR having different shocks and tires/wheels may have an effect, we don't experience with the non-XRs. Again, I'm saying they may or may not apply to both. Just presenting my sample-of-one experience.
 
But the XR having different shocks and tires/wheels may have an effect, we don't experience with the non-XRs. Again, I'm saying they may or may not apply to both. Just presenting my sample-of-one experience.
Agreed that some will not be “as noticeable“ because of factory variances. But 392XR and 392 has the same geometry(lift), so same caster, which is the root cause.
 
I agree 100% with this, mine does not handle great, and I blew out the fender liners on the way home from the dealer.
I noticed heat shield material behind the fender liners on my 22’. I wonder if they fixed this? If so, I am debating if I need the AAL liners I bought.
 
I noticed heat shield material behind the fender liners on my 22’. I wonder if they fixed this? If so, I am debating if I need the AAL liners I bought.
It is there on the ‘21s as well. When I repaired mine, I replaced the shielding also. My passenger side exploded on the 500 miles from the dealer. Driver side didn’t have an issue. All depends on prevailing wind When they get soft…. Hasn’t been reported as much here since it has been winter. Come summer temps, new owners will be complaining again.

zip ties…
 
It is there on the ‘21s as well. When I repaired mine, I replaced the shielding also. My passenger side exploded on the 500 miles from the dealer. Driver side didn’t have an issue. All depends on prevailing wind When they get soft…. Hasn’t been reported as much here since it has been winter. Come summer temps, new owners will be complaining again.

zip ties…
Good to know, thanks. AAL install is a go :)
 
It is there on the ‘21s as well. When I repaired mine, I replaced the shielding also. My passenger side exploded on the 500 miles from the dealer. Driver side didn’t have an issue. All depends on prevailing wind When they get soft…. Hasn’t been reported as much here since it has been winter. Come summer temps, new owners will be complaining again.

zip ties…
The heat shielding helps protect the inner fender from heat but reflects heat back into engine compartment. The aftermarket inner fender liners are metal and should help transfer heat out of engine compartment better, plus they are vented. I preemptively changed mine because summer here is hot and I don't want heat related issues like some have reported.

The tazer has a cooldown mode that will turn the fans on with the press of a couple buttons. I'll be using this if I'm sitting in line for very long in the heat.
 
It is there on the ‘21s as well. When I repaired mine, I replaced the shielding also. My passenger side exploded on the 500 miles from the dealer. Driver side didn’t have an issue. All depends on prevailing wind When they get soft…. Hasn’t been reported as much here since it has been winter. Come summer temps, new owners will be complaining again.

zip ties…
Picking my XR up Friday and have a 1600 mile drive home. Just put some zip ties in my bag…
 
Well, flying out to pick it up, with no checked luggage, so a pocket knife is out of the question, as is most anything else that might do the trick lol. Guess I’ll have to make a stop if needed.
 
I was asked what I thought “needs“ to be upgraded on a 392. I didn’t want to hijack that thread so here is a new thread. These, in my mind, are needs, not just wants. These left as is will cause headaches to you as a Jeep owner. This is not a long list, so nothing that is controversial.

1. Longer or adjustable control arms on front. Because the 392 is the most lifted wrangler from the factory, it needs longer control arms. This should come from the factory, but it doesn’t. Left as is will make the caster be lower than it should be for acceptable handling. Many will say that “my 392 handles great!” My answer is that is because you haven’t driven one with this upgrade…. Even the mopar 2” lift comes with longer control arms. So why the 392 didn’t get them, cost.

2. Fender liners. Unless you drive where there is no atmosphere, like the moon or in space, you will have a problem with the stock fender liners. They will get soft and come in contact with the wheel. That will pretty much destroy them. Again, many will say, “my 392 didn’t have a problem”. If you haven’t it is pure luck.

3. Tpms adjustment. You will need something to lower the factory required 37 psi. 37 psi is too much pressure in any tires that comes on a 392. 392s should be set to about 30 psi cold, depending on how cold is cold in your area:). This will get you to about 35-36 hot psi. That is about as high as you ever want. But setting to 30 cold will trigger the warning until you get back to 37!

strongly recommended upgrade.
1. Steering stabilizer. Ridiculous that they upgrades to better shocks, fox/mopar depending on model But then It has a $5 stabilizer on it. You don’t need to spend $500 on the top of the line. But get something better.

Hope the helps new buyers.

Suppose I'll see the fender issue when it warms up. Nothing in 4000 miles of driving yet however.
As far as the tpms... Mine are set at 33 and I never get any warnings.. they don't get past 36 on the highway. I do have a tazer if its ever an issue... but I can say it hasn't been yet.
 
View attachment 4281So you got me thinking. :unsure: I went out a took a picture of the part # on my lower control arms on my standard 392. I have Mopar# 68250242AB. They list for $159 each. The 2" Mopar lift uses Mopar# 68322798AA control arms which list for $44.65 each. I think they both cost FCA about the same to make so I don't think it was cost. I am guessing the engineers came up with this geometry for a reason. But I am sure as you and @hardhat discussed in this post adding caster has improved the on center steering feel. It's a cheep and easy upgrade as a pair of 68322798AA can be bought for about $60 total. I may give it a try it and see how it feels. If someone with a 392XR wants to take a picture of their control arm part number I would be curious if it is different.
Sub'd. Interested in what you find!
 
I also would love to see the pn on other people's LCA.
 
This is a small suggested improvement - a clock above or near the speedometer, in the straight line of sight. I know there’s a small clock visible to the right, if you have the touchscreen display on. But if it’s off, you have no clock near the speedometer. Speed and time, two important things on a dash IMO. It would just make it more convenient. No clock visible here, straight on. It has everything but. Instead of the word “Speedometer”, put a clock there instead:

50765007-2FB7-4E0D-99E7-169E6CC68E36.webp
 

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