While washing Thor today, and wiping underneath, I thought it would be a good opportunity to take just a few weird underneath pics, from the rear. These will either be boring or interesting, but I hope you enjoy:
Weird Underneath Angles of the 392 XR
- Thread starter HearHear
- Start date
Fast-n-Furious
Well-known member
Looking nice and clean! Did you do any corrosion proof? I was thinking about spray the underneath with Fluid Film. Not sure how long I can bear that smell…
stumblinhorse
Well-known member
Missed a spot
- Thread starter
- #4
Nah, I live in Florida. We don't do undercoatings here. Just rinse. But if I lived anywhere north of Georgia, I would do Fluid Film or the like. Just too much metal structure underneath not to protect it.
veddersbetter
Well-known member
Get some touch up paint on that shock... rust will spread like wildfire in that very spot. Do a little fluid film while youre at it. Not sure if you have owned a Jeep before but I think the frame is pre-rusted or painted with water colors. They rust extremely easily
Love the "1941" graphic btw. Only box I wish I would have checked
cgrosen324
Well-known member
Thanks for the pics. SO glad my stock muffler is gone. It’s a pet peeve of mine - mufflers hanging down like that.
Why not lol. Like it thx for sharing
The short of it…
I would recommend Blaster Surface Shield.
The long of it… (Caution: long post ahead
)So while I was waiting for my 392 to get built I started to think about rust prevention. I had a Toyota FJ40 in college and it died of rust, so I vowed my 392 would not suffer the same sad fate. I bought a piece of sheet metal, sanded it down, made some pinch seams, and applied some potential rust prevention products to test them out in real world conditions. I bought Fluid Film, Rust-Oleum, STEEL-IT, and Blaster Surface Shield. I applied them as directed by the instructions, then I attached the sheet metal (cut to the same size as a standard license plate) to the front of our Honda(s) and drove it. What I found out surprised me, the Fluid Film has mostly washed off over the past two months and that area is starting to rust. But the Blaster is still going strong, I wiped off a little bit to reveal the metal underneath. Here are some photos showing the results. I live in Ohio and we have had plenty of snow, and salt to create “Ideal” testing conditions.
Applying products, plate was installed Jan 29:
One week on the car Feb 8:
Update Feb 16th control is starting to rust:
Here is what it looks like today Mar 6th:
So based on this totally unscientific test I am going to paint any small rust spots, paint the inside of the frame rails, basically paint anything that doesn’t move (just like the Navy: “If it doesn't move paint it”
)Then I’m planning on using Blaster Surface Shield on the exterior underside and I’m thinking about using Boeshield T9 on any interior compartments (this product was recommended by friend of mine who is an outstanding crew chief).
I am holding off staring this process until the PPF is done next week so I don’t cause any adhesion issues with the PPF.
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veddersbetter
Well-known member
The short of it…
I would recommend Blaster Surface Shield.
The long of it… (Caution: long post ahead
So while I was waiting for my 392 to get built I started to think about rust prevention. I had a Toyota FJ40 in college and it died of rust, so I vowed my 392 would not suffer the same sad fate. I bought a piece of sheet metal, sanded it down, made some pinch seams, and applied some potential rust prevention products to test them out in real world conditions. I bought Fluid Film, Rust-Oleum, STEEL-IT, and Blaster Surface Shield. I applied them as directed by the instructions, then I attached the sheet metal (cut to the same size as a standard license plate) to the front of our Honda(s) and drove it. What I found out surprised me, the Fluid Film has mostly washed off over the past two months and that area is starting to rust. But the Blaster is still going strong, I wiped off a little bit to reveal the metal underneath. Here are some photos showing the results. I live in Ohio and we have had plenty of snow, and salt to create “Ideal” testing conditions.
Applying products, plate was installed Jan 29:
View attachment 3615
One week on the car Feb 8:
View attachment 3616
Update Feb 16th control is starting to rust:
View attachment 3617
Here is what it looks like today Mar 6th:
View attachment 3618
So based on this totally unscientific test I am going to paint any small rust spots, paint the inside of the frame rails, basically paint anything that doesn’t move (just like the Navy: “If it doesn't move paint it”
Then I’m planning on using Blaster Surface Shield on the exterior underside and I’m thinking about using Boeshield T9 on any interior compartments (this product was recommended by friend of mine who is a crew chief).
I am holding off staring this process until the PPF is done next week so I don’t cause any adhesion issues with the PPF.
Awesome.. thanks for showing the results. Is this "Blaster" the stuff made by PB Blaster? Saw at the local farm store and was curious about it.
Yup, same company as the old' PB Blaster. They are up in Cleveland the town that invented Rust
. Here is what the can looks like, I picked it up at Home Depot for about $9 per can. I was planning on going with Fluid Film which I have used for years on my Stihl tools, to prevent rust. But I found that this stuff sprays more evenly, coats the surface better, and stays on a lot longer.I watched this guy on youtube do all these tests on various products including Fluid Film, Wool Wax, and even cosmoline. Then he got invited to try out this stuff. Well I was super skeptical of any product that someone gets for free. So I wanted to test it myself. And, yup its pretty darn good. I figure I would share my results. Here is the video on his channel. Hope this helps!
You probably watched this, but posting it for those who have not. I like your test as it was done in real world conditions. Project Farm buys his products and never sponsored, so more believable than many others.
He also has this one
He also has this one
veddersbetter
Well-known member
Thats the stuff I saw... considerably cheaper than Fluid Film as well.. I think it was 6.99 vs 9.99 a can.View attachment 3619
Yup, same company as the old' PB Blaster. They are up in Cleveland the town that invented Rust
I watched this guy on youtube do all these tests on various products including Fluid Film, Wool Wax, and even cosmoline. Then he got invited to try out this stuff. Well I was super skeptical of any product that someone gets for free. So I wanted to test it myself. And, yup its pretty darn good. I figure I would share my results. Here is the video on his channel. Hope this helps!
If theres one thing I dont like about fluid film for coating.. its that the stream comes out in a straight line with some force behind it. Great for frame rails... bad for eyeballs. Ill give this stuff a try... thank you
Fast-n-Furious
Well-known member
Wow, I appreciate all the research you've done on different products and this metal experiment/test tells a lot! Putting all the effort on recording and editing is definitely making the end results persuasive! I have a strong feeling that paint+surface shield would protect the underbody much better than just spray the film.The short of it…
I would recommend Blaster Surface Shield.
The long of it… (Caution: long post ahead
So while I was waiting for my 392 to get built I started to think about rust prevention. I had a Toyota FJ40 in college and it died of rust, so I vowed my 392 would not suffer the same sad fate. I bought a piece of sheet metal, sanded it down, made some pinch seams, and applied some potential rust prevention products to test them out in real world conditions. I bought Fluid Film, Rust-Oleum, STEEL-IT, and Blaster Surface Shield. I applied them as directed by the instructions, then I attached the sheet metal (cut to the same size as a standard license plate) to the front of our Honda(s) and drove it. What I found out surprised me, the Fluid Film has mostly washed off over the past two months and that area is starting to rust. But the Blaster is still going strong, I wiped off a little bit to reveal the metal underneath. Here are some photos showing the results. I live in Ohio and we have had plenty of snow, and salt to create “Ideal” testing conditions.
Applying products, plate was installed Jan 29:
View attachment 3615
One week on the car Feb 8:
View attachment 3616
Update Feb 16th control is starting to rust:
View attachment 3617
Here is what it looks like today Mar 6th:
View attachment 3618
So based on this totally unscientific test I am going to paint any small rust spots, paint the inside of the frame rails, basically paint anything that doesn’t move (just like the Navy: “If it doesn't move paint it”
Then I’m planning on using Blaster Surface Shield on the exterior underside and I’m thinking about using Boeshield T9 on any interior compartments (this product was recommended by friend of mine who is an outstanding crew chief).
I am holding off staring this process until the PPF is done next week so I don’t cause any adhesion issues with the PPF.
Question, I don't have a lift in my garage. What would be the proper way of getting under the frame and apply the spray paint/film?
So I’m in the same boat with no lift
I’ve just been putting down a big piece of cardboard underneath and I kinda have enough space to be able to shimmy underneath and paint/spray. It’s very snug, but it’s doable. However I happen to have a set of 4 of these under my classic car that I use to roll it into the corner of my garage for winter storage:
They are call GoJak model 4211, they’re made in the USA
and they are not cheep, but trust me you’re getting what you pay for. They lift the tire with the step ratchet mechanism then you can roll the vehicle around any direction with ease (very nice casters). I bought them a few years ago because they saved me needing to add an addition to my garage to store my VW bug inside when we moved back home to Ohio from Texas. With them I can lift up my bug and roll it sideways into the forward corner of my garage and still get our two regular cars in. Basically it turned our 2-car garage into a 3-car garage. Worth every penny!I tried one wheel out on my 392 and it fits the 33” KO2’s no problem (I am sure it would also fit the 35” but I can’t verify that). It added a good 3-4” to the height and with all 4 tires up like that, prepping and coating the underside will be very doable. Not “fun” mind you, but defiantly feasible. I’ll probably slide a block of 2x10 wood underneath the lifted tire to act as a chock and a fail safe in case the GoJak ratchet was to fail. Also as @veddersbetter mentioned I’ll wear some PPE to keep the stuff out of my eyes, etc.
I’m defiantly not saying you need a set of these wheel lifts, but just adding 3-4” inches of height to a 392 is a game changer as far as getting underneath.
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Fast-n-Furious
Well-known member
So I’m in the same boat with no lift
I’ve just been putting down a big piece of cardboard underneath and I kinda have enough space to be able to shimmy underneath and paint/spray. It’s very snug, but it’s doable. However I happen to have a set of 4 of these under my classic car that I use to roll it into the corner of my garage for winter storage:
View attachment 3621
They are call GoJak model 4211, they’re made in the USA
View attachment 3623
View attachment 3622
I tried one wheel out on my 392 and it fits the 33” KO2’s no problem (I am sure it would also fit the 35” but I can’t verify that). It added a good 3-4” to the height and with all 4 tires up like that, prepping and coating the underside will be very doable. Not “fun” mind you, but defiantly feasible. I’ll probably slide a block of 2x10 wood underneath the lifted tire to act as a chock and a fail safe in case the GoJak ratchet was to fail. Also as @veddersbetter mentioned I’ll wear some PPE to keep the stuff out of my eyes, etc.
I’m defiantly not saying you need a set of these wheel lifts, but just adding 3-4” inches of height to a 392 is a game changer as far as getting underneath.
I never knew the existence of this kind jack/dolly, thanks for sharing and the pics! I agree with you that a few inches head room would make a huge difference. My garage has a low ceiling, I'll need to do some measurements making sure the rooftop doesn't touch the garage door opener or the I-beam when the rig is lifted.
veddersbetter
Well-known member
I can shimmy under my XR with a low profile creeper and access everywhere I need to. Kind of a bigger guy too and have no issue... ( my arms are long too so that helps)
If I didnt have the extra inch of clearance with the 35's I would probably be stuck there until someone found me.
Driving it up on some 2x12 blocks would probably lift it up enough on 33's
Fast-n-Furious
Well-known member
Thanks for the great suggestion on the 2x12, Will definitely give it a try if needed. I’m on the small-medium side so I’ll probably be able to make it. I’ll just make sure not to bump my head and I’m glad the 22 MY no longer has that low hanging oil pan.
Hey, if by any chance I may get stuck, my wife will have a good excuse to test out the winch on my dead body
I knew about this kind of jack but never thought of it for vehicle maintenance. Not needed for oil changes etc on a Jeep with a lift but could come in handy in certain circumstances.
RugbyRef
Well-known member
I've used a couple of options in the past when I had to get under a vehicle. For a couple of Mustangs I own, I initially used a ramp from Race Ramps. These made it easy to get underneath for various reasons (oil change, etc.).
The lift I option I use now is the QuickJack 7000TLX. The lift comes with a truck adapter kit that allows me to be able to lift the Jeep. Here's a pic with the Corvette. I had to purchase the truck adapter kit when I got the Jeep, but I don't have a pic yet with it in the air.
This option works very well for me, but YMMV. Some buddies of mine have actual 4-post lifts in their garages! Not sure I want to go that far.
Tim
The lift I option I use now is the QuickJack 7000TLX. The lift comes with a truck adapter kit that allows me to be able to lift the Jeep. Here's a pic with the Corvette. I had to purchase the truck adapter kit when I got the Jeep, but I don't have a pic yet with it in the air.
This option works very well for me, but YMMV. Some buddies of mine have actual 4-post lifts in their garages! Not sure I want to go that far.
Tim
Fast-n-Furious
Well-known member
Thanks. I looked at the QuickJack before, they are portable and don't take much space for storage. Your 7000TLX is sufficient for the 392. I was thinking about getting the 5000TLX considering the JL is about 4000 curb weight.
BTW, nice clean garage and cool cars!
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