Sway-bar disconnect, won't

[Bart C]

All of the sudden my electronic sway-bar disconnect won't disconnect and the light isn't coming on. Hoping it's something simple. Yes, it's in 4H or 4L. Fuse 79 is intact and the connection to the disconnect motor seems fine. Any ideas on what to check? I'm a month from being home to take it to the shop or dealer so trying to figure out if it's something I can check/fix. Fortunately, the shop who installed my Teraflex lift installed the quick disconnects as a back up. I understand many shops don't. Any ideas? Thank you, Bart

 

[guruman]

I don't know if the disconnect has changed much, but the JK disconnects were prone to getting a bit of water in them and either killing the motor (which would create a warning) or gumming up the disconnect mechanism.

As far as I know the mechanisms are on springs that push and pull on the actual disconnect collar/mechanism. It relies on that spring pressure to lock and unlock the swaybar when there is no tension on it and everything lines up.

If the mechanism is wet/corroded/dirty, the spring is not sufficient to move the lock anymore... the motor works fine, but the locking portion never actually moves.

It might free up with the old tappy-tap-tap percussive maintenance. (smack it with a hammer)

Or it might require disassembly and cleanup.

It also could be some other option.....

 

[prodriquez]

I couple of quick ideas:

Check the voltage at the connection points. There is one near the motor and one behind the button. Start with the easy one.

If you have a Tazer, check the settings and make sure it wasn’t accidentally disabled.

 

[Bart C]

I couple of quick ideas:

Check the voltage at the connection points. There is one near the motor and one behind the button. Start with the easy one.

If you have a Tazer, check the settings and make sure it wasn’t accidentally disabled.

Yes, I have a Tazer but haven't programmed on it in quite a while but I'll check it out just in case. Great idea, thank you.

 

[Bart C]

I don't know if the disconnect has changed much, but the JK disconnects were prone to getting a bit of water in them and either killing the motor (which would create a warning) or gumming up the disconnect mechanism.

As far as I know the mechanisms are on springs that push and pull on the actual disconnect collar/mechanism. It relies on that spring pressure to lock and unlock the swaybar when there is no tension on it and everything lines up.

If the mechanism is wet/corroded/dirty, the spring is not sufficient to move the lock anymore... the motor works fine, but the locking portion never actually moves.

It might free up with the old tappy-tap-tap percussive maintenance. (smack it with a hammer)

Or it might require disassembly and cleanup.

It also could be some other option.....

Thank you. Will try the percussive hammer option first. Never know but I'll leave the 7lbs hand sledge out of it. Disassembly will be a bitch since my front bumper panel extends waaaay down to protect all that equipment so disassembly will be a last result since removal of the bumper will be a real PITA. I did take the electrical connector off and cleaned the contacts on both sides. Thx

 

[Bart C]

I couple of quick ideas:

Check the voltage at the connection points. There is one near the motor and one behind the button. Start with the easy one.

If you have a Tazer, check the settings and make sure it wasn’t accidentally disabled.

Testing the voltage questions. I assume I'll need someone to hold down the button while I test the pins on the plug which is fairly accessible. I'm thinking that having someone hold down the button inside is the only way to provide a constant power to test all the pins. Yes? Seems like dumb question, but... Excited at the option of opening up some of the lower dash to get to the back of the button, NOT!

 

[prodriquez]

Use a multimeter to check the voltage. I like to use alligator clips if the pins are hard to get to. Here is a useful video on how to check voltage.

For the sway bar, you can remove the entire assembly by disconnecting the end links and removing 4 mounting bolts. This will make it much easier to access the motor.

 

[Bart C]

Use a multimeter to check the voltage. I like to use alligator clips if the pins are hard to get to. Here is a useful video on how to check voltage.

For the sway bar, you can remove the entire assembly by disconnecting the end links and removing 4 mounting bolts. This will make it much easier to access the motor.

Excellent video. I'm a novice with a meter so I normally learn something new from each video. this one is very well done. My question for testing the sway-bar disconnect motor is; I assume I need to keep the button depressed while I'm checking the pins for voltage. Don't want to damage anything by keeping it pressed if it should only be momentary. Thanks again for the video.

 

[prodriquez]

The switch is a clock on/click off deal. IIRC, I believe a light also turns on when you disconnect the sway bar (I removed mine and run an Antirock).

For you, test the voltage and if you don’t get a reading… simply push the button again and see if you get a reading. A friend would be helpful, but not necessary

 

[Bart C]

Thank you. Have someone to help me so I'll see what happens.