PPF and ceramic coating

I can try and answer some of your questions
I have been in the business since late 80’s. Currently have 4 locations in San Diego and we do tinting, PPF and ceramic coating……. We also do flat glass which is commercial and residential tint
Anyway, as far as PPF goes…. It’s been out a lot longer then most people realize. Some of the biggest brands are well over 5th 6th 7th generations. It’s gotten more popular because the product and cutting software has come a long way so you are seeing more shops getting into it. In our industry it’s been the #1 add to shops over the last 5 years and the manufactures have all jumped into it.
So to answer your question…. I would stick with the bigger brands mainly because they will be around the longest to honor the warranty. Most come with 5-10 year warranty. Make sure the shop and manufacturer will be there for you. My recommendations are:
Xpel (leader in the market)
Suntek (owned by Estaman)
Llumar-Valor series (honorable mention that has a new technology behind it…. One to watch but harder to install)
There are other good brads too but they are probably a rebox (one of the big guys makes it for them)

Ceramic coating are the “Hot” thing right now and are awesome if done right. As you guys know it’s the paint correction that is the key. The ceramic coating gets all the credit but it’s what is done before the coating that is key. Make sure you have experience here. A shop that has been certified or been around for some time detailing is what you want
As far as product….. this is tough because everyone makes one. One thing you should know is more layers doesnt make it better. That’s like “double bagging it” 😂🤣😂 not really necessary but might give you piece of mind. You need to look at how HARD the coating rating is (i am drawing a blank on what they call that rating) so the difference between a 5 year and 9 year is not how thick the coating is, but how hard the coating is. Think wood and granite. You can build with both but wood will gouge a lot easier then granite.
I recommend
Gtechniq Ultra with Exo 5 or 9 year (personally the 5 year is fine….. just maintain it every year or 18 months) FYI…. The annual matnance for the coat is…… they reapply the EXO top coat
Ceramic pro has done a great job marketing there product and would be considered a big player with decent products BUT it’s marketed really well so don’t over pay

Xpel fusion is my choice for over PPF. Yes you can ceramic coat the PPF. It’s built for their PPF and makes the PPF pop plus helps with bee pollen stains on PPF

Rightlook for DIY. You can get professional grade ceramic and do it yourself. (I don’t recommend that but you can) I actually think this is equal to ceramic pro but they don’t have the marketing yet

One note is you always PPF first…. Then ceramic coat.
My opinion is PPF everything in front of the windshield (hood,fenders,grill) and ceramic coat the whole Jeep and of course tint the whole Jeep with a IR ceramic film (Stratos series)or ceramic (pinnacle series)

If you want to talk tint then I suggest a new thread😂😂😂 cause I could write a book on that. 😬
Thanks! Very informative! Great to have domain expert like you here!

I don't have a deep pocket and have been doing research on DIY ceramic coating. Honestly I still don't feel confident with messing up with the small bottle. And I came across this Adams Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating thinking that it'll be very DYI-friendly and I can reapply every year due to the low cost. Any thoughts on this?
 
@Mrtintsd It is awesome to hear from a real pro installer/owner on what works! Thanks 😁👍

I have experience (still an amateur) painting HVLP, LVLP and 3M PPS alkyd and automotive finishes and I can tell you it is so, so, so, (that is so³) much easier to protect your paint than repaint it after it’s damaged. To paint it like the factory is near impossible and the difference between a “paint job” and a professional paint job is lots of time and lots and lots of $$$. So in this case an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

When I take delivery of my 392 my first mod is PPF. PPF is ‘some’ protection from physical damage. This 392 is a super expensive purchase for me, and I need it to last a long time. I plan on covering the grill, front and rear fenders, hood, windshield, front side panels behind the fender, lower door rocker panels everything that’s easy for a simi to hit with a rock. I am leaning towards a local shop that uses Llumar Platinum Paint Protection Film. The reason I like these guys isn’t the brand of film they use but the skill of guys putting it on. They seem to know their stuff, and they have lots of happy customers.
I asked the film thickness and the guy knew without hesitation that it was 7.5mil, I asked if they bulk wrap (no pattern) or pattern wrap, he said they bulk wrap the hood for better fit and pattern the other stuff but with a custom set overlap for wrapping the edges properly. The guy even knew about the scoop on the 392 and had a plan to deal with it. The only thing I’m not set on is if I should do the paint correction myself or let them do it. I want it to be near perfect before we cover it up with PPF. I have a serious problem letting go of things 😂 I generally want to do it myself, I feel I can do a better job and save money in the process. But I don’t have any experience with PPF and I don’t have a good heated, clean location to do it myself, so I am going to pay someone else to do it.

Now my longer term plan is to do the doors (8 total with half and full) and rear windows myself because I can do them inside in a controlled “paint booth” like environment. I plan on trying one door and if I can’t do it I’m going to go back to the pros. I plan on doing the ceramic coating myself and I appreciate all the good insight from @Mrtintsd on the products that work well over PPF. But that is later.
I know some people may feel that PPF or Ceramic is best left to the Pro’s. But I can tell you from painting, there is rarely a mistake that can’t be fixed. PPF can be removed, Ceramic can be removed. Short of cutting into the paint with a razor when cutting the PPF film, or burning the clear coat on a corner with a rotary it will be fine, don’t panic. What’s hard to fix is a stone chip on the nose of the hood, that is hard to fix without leaving a scar. But It’s a Jeep, its made to get scars, it’s made to get muddy and beat up, to wrench on it yourself on the side of the trail, but I figure PPF is not a bad choice to make it last a little longer.
 
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Thanks! Very informative! Great to have domain expert like you here!

I don't have a deep pocket and have been doing research on DIY ceramic coating. Honestly I still don't feel confident with messing up with the small bottle. And I came across this Adams Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating thinking that it'll be very DYI-friendly and I can reapply every year due to the low cost. Any thoughts on this?
I can vouch for that Brad specific but most spray ceramic are a thinner application that work just fine. Just not as long. I actually use a store bought spray on my RV and I love it
I also wouldn’t be afraid to try a 1 year product. If you can wax a car then you can ceramic it BUT keep in mind the color correction is the key.
But yes a spray ceramic to polish the car every couple months will work
 
@Mrtintsd It is awesome to hear from a real pro installer/owner on what works! Thanks 😁👍

I have experience (still an amateur) painting HVLP, LVLP and 3M PPS alkyd and automotive finishes and I can tell you it is so, so, so, (that is so³) much easier to protect your paint than repaint it after it’s damaged. To paint it like the factory is near impossible and the difference between a “paint job” and a professional paint job is lots of time and lots and lots of $$$. So in this case an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

When I take delivery of my 392 my first mod is PPF. PPF is ‘some’ protection from physical damage. This 392 is a super expensive purchase for me, and I need it to last a long time. I plan on covering the grill, front and rear fenders, hood, windshield, front side panels behind the fender, lower door rocker panels everything that’s easy for a simi to hit with a rock. I am leaning towards a local shop that uses Llumar Platinum Paint Protection Film. The reason I like these guys isn’t the brand of film they use but the skill of guys putting it on. They seem to know their stuff, and they have lots of happy customers.
I asked the film thickness and the guy knew without hesitation that it was 7.5mil, I asked if they bulk wrap (no pattern) or pattern wrap, he said they bulk wrap the hood for better fit and pattern the other stuff but with a custom set overlap for wrapping the edges properly. The guy even knew about the scoop on the 392 and had a plan to deal with it. The only thing I’m not set on is if I should do the paint correction myself or let them do it. I want it to be near perfect before we cover it up with PPF. I have a serious problem letting go of things 😂 I generally want to do it myself, I feel I can do a better job and save money in the process. But I don’t have any experience with PPF and I don’t have a good heated, clean location to do it myself, so I am going to pay someone else to do it.

Now my longer term plan is to do the doors (8 total with half and full) and rear windows myself because I can do them inside in a controlled “paint booth” like environment. I plan on trying one door and if I can’t do it I’m going to go back to the pros. I plan on doing the ceramic coating myself and I appreciate all the good insight from @Mrtintsd on the products that work well over PPF. But that is later.
I know some people may feel that PPF or Ceramic is best left to the Pro’s. But I can tell you from painting, there is rarely a mistake that can’t be fixed. PPF can be removed, Ceramic can be removed. Short of cutting into the paint with a razor when cutting the PPF film, or burning the clear coat on a corner with a rotary it will be fine, don’t panic. What’s hard to fix is a stone chip on the nose of the hood, that is hard to fix without leaving a scar. But It’s a Jeep, its made to get scars, it’s made to get muddy and beat up, to wrench on it yourself on the side of the trail, but I figure PPF is not a bad choice to make it last a little longer.
Help me understand exactly what it is you are going to do?
I’m unclear if you want to do the pair correction or the PPF
It also seems like you are going to do the glass itself?

Let me touch on a little of everything
Yes, the shop sounds like a great one. All those answers makes it sound like they have been there….. done that!
Yes, most anything can be fixed and like most of us, we want the best money can buy but we want it for free or as close as possible…… even if we have to do it our self😂🤣😂
I will guarantee. This WILL NOT be worth your time.
2 biggest reasons are:
-the film is expensive. Im not in front of my software right now to see the sqft required but my guess is $2k In film
-it takes a lot of time and practice to know what the film will and will not do.

Here are things you need to know before you start
What mix do you want for your slip (soap bottle)
What mix do you need for your alcohol bottle
Where can you get gel for the gel bottle
When do you use slip? Alcohol? Gel? Water?
How do you lift the PPF without getting a lift line?
How not to get “chicken skin” term used when adhesive is stretched after tack
Heat gun or not?
What is heat locking.

These are all things I still ask myself when installing and learn on every car everyday. I have 2 certifications with Llumar and Xpel and it’s still not easy

With that said…. I love to do it! Always a challenge and looks great when done correct.

Now…… after reading your post….. I know your still going to try this😂🤣🤣 I can help you and give you advise but most of it comes down to hands on experience. So your going to go thru a lot of expensive material. If you try and use cheaper material…. It will just make it harder.
Both the certification classes are a week long….. they have a 1/2 day of class time and 4 1/2 days of just constantly laying up film so you can get the feel for it. I’m telling this cause it just takes time to learn what works.

When your ready to try it. You Start a new thread and I will walk you thru it

Also… don’t put PPF on glass. It’s blurt to look thru…. It sounded like you were going to PPF your glass?
 
Help me understand exactly what it is you are going to do?
I’m unclear if you want to do the pair correction or the PPF
It also seems like you are going to do the glass itself?

When your ready to try it. You Start a new thread and I will walk you thru it

Also… don’t put PPF on glass. It’s blurt to look thru…. It sounded like you were going to PPF your glass?
Sorry I was not very clear on my previous post, I was at work on my phone and kept getting distracted by you guessed it, work.

My plan is to have a local shop do the essentials: Grill, Both Fenders, Hood, Windshield surround (not the glass). On day 1 so everything that is likely to get damaged is protected.

After that my plan is to at my leisure I will tackle the stuff that can easily be removed: Doors, and painted rear window panels (I have the Sky One touch top) and do those myself inside where I can control the temp and dust. I figure I will start with enough film to do just 1 half door (lets say 36"x36" for scale) and try my hand at it. I'm only covering the paint, no trim, no windows etc. Probably bulk wrapping cuz I don't have a cutter. And see how it goes, you only know you can't do something once you have tried it and made a complete hash of it. I am under no illusion that there is TONS of craftsmanship and I may fail epically, but I am patient. I will totally start a new thread when I get to that stage and I appreciate all the helpful info. :)(y)
 
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Sorry I was not very clear on my previous post, I was at work on my phone and kept getting distracted by you guessed it, work.

My plan is to have a local shop do the essentials: Grill, Both Fenders, Hood, Windshield surround (not the glass). On day 1 so everything that is likely to get damaged is protected.

After that my plan is to at my leisure I will tackle the stuff that can easily be removed: Doors, and painted rear window panels (I have the Sky One touch top) and do those myself inside where I can control the temp and dust. I figure I will start with enough film to do just 1 half door (lets say 36"x36" for scale) and try my hand at it. I'm only covering the paint, no trim, no windows etc. Probably bulk wrapping cuz I don't have a cutter. And see how it goes, you only know you can't do something once you have tried it and made a complete hash of it. I am under no illusion that there is TONS of craftsmanship and I may fail epically, but I am patient. I will totally start a new thread when I get to that stage and I appreciate all the helpful info. :)(y)
Okay. Yes you absolutely can do the doors and rear body parts. That part is straight forward. Hit me up when your ready. I can plot a couple pieces for you and ship them. It would be best if you don’t try to cut on the paint. That damage won’t show for years but it will eventually.
 
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