New Skid Plate for Engine Oil Pan

[cgrosen324]

I wonder if it was designed for the steel pan?

I also reached out to them and it is not compatible with the stamped steel pan. Dude suggested I “cut a funnel in half.” I’m not sure how that solves anything. How the hell do you get to the drain plug if the access panel is in the wrong location. Kind of annoying no one has built a stand alone engine skid for the newer pan design.

 

[Robr651]

I also reached out to them and it is not compatible with the stamped steel pan. Dude suggested I “cut a funnel in half.” I’m not sure how that solves anything. How the hell do you get yo the drain plug if the access panel is in the wrong location. Kind of annoying no one has built a stand alone engine skid for the newer pan design.

It is dumb since they’re limiting themselves to a year 1/2 of production.

 

[Ted392]

More like crazy. It would be nice to use the correct skid for more clearance.

 

[Jgc650i]

I also reached out to them and it is not compatible with the stamped steel pan. Dude suggested I “cut a funnel in half.” I’m not sure how that solves anything. How the hell do you get to the drain plug if the access panel is in the wrong location. Kind of annoying no one has built a stand alone engine skid for the newer pan design.

Not compatible at all, or just not taking advantage of the additional clearance afforded by the stamped steel pan like the other oil skid options mentioned in thread?

 

[Mooserat]

More like crazy. It would be nice to use the correct skid for more clearance.

I assume when rusty and m.o.r.e sell all their inventory they will update the design. clearance and the oil drain has to be and issue with both options

 

[Bobo57]

Good find. Haven't heard of this one. Might be worth a call.

How could you resist with the 392 logo cut into the plate?

 

[Ted392]

How could you resist with the 392 logo cut into the plate?

Because it's for an AL pan 392 ;-)

Hopefully some co will have a stell pan version before I head west.

 

[Bobo57]

Because it's for an AL pan 392 ;-)

Hopefully some co will have a stell pan version before I head west.

Doesn't that work with AL or Steel pans?

 

[Jgc650i]

I have the steel pan and decided to go with the Rusty’s solution. I’m actually doing the full set (engine, transfer case, fuel, muffler). Won’t have time to do the install for a couple weeks, but will update thread when I do. Will check clearance on install to see how much extra may be available but not captured with steel pan and report back. Would think from the looks of it and install instructions it could be modified pretty easily if necessary with a couple extra hole drills for attaching front brackets to skid to raise the front closer to pan. Might require some spacer additions on rear portion of mount to clear exhaust. For that mafter, it appears clearing the exhaust at the rear of the engine skid will be the lower clearance issue anyway, even with the aluminum vs steel pan issue. Either way I’ll report back once I’m able to unbox everything and futz with the install.

 

[Ted392]

Doesn't that work with AL or Steel pans?

Yes. But not designed for steel pan.

 

[Bobo57]

Yes. But not designed for steel pan.

Got it.........

 

[Jgc650i]

Well, took a couple weeks longer than planned to get around to this install, but other than the Control Arm Skids and Track Bar Brace I still need to get to I now have everything installed including Rusty’s Muffler, 7-Pin, Fuel Tank, Transfer Case, and Enigine/Oil Skids. The install was pretty straightforward for the most part and I only had a couple minor issues (and one more moderate of my own making) with the install. I did this myself, at home on the garage floor, with jacks, ratchets straps and axel stands. In hindsight I would highly recommend going somewhere with access to a lift, especially for the fuel tank skid.

The fuel skid is not an overlay. It replaces the factory skid, which is what holds the fuel tank in place, so you have to be very careful when dropping the tank and work ratchet straps into the process to hold the tank up. The fuel skid is necessarily a very tight fit, so it takes some work to get in place and aligned. Due entirely to my own fault, impatience, and not paying enough attention, I managed to accidentally break off one of the interior frame mounting nuts (good grief, Charlie Brown!!). Had to cut the spinning bolt out and install a rivet nut replacement. Was concerned at first the rivet nut might not hold up to the necessary torque, but it did and all is good.

The only other install issues were with the engine/oil skid. The brackets that hold the front of the skid are a VERY tight fit around the engine mounts and brackets, and of course subject to manufacturing variations. I had to slightly notch out areas on both brackets to get them to properly fit and seat, but they were fine once I did and I only needed to take about 1/8th to 1/4th an inch at most. The last issue was the lock nut on the passenger side bracket mount. It is a very tight squeeze around obstructions and my thinnest thin-walled socket was still too big. I got creative and used a plumber’s tube wrench and just BARELY had enough clearance to tighten the nut with quite a bit of effort.

Other than the above install fun (is there such a thing as a seamless mod install?), everything else went off without a hitch and I am very happy with Rusty’s skid package. It is very solid, well coordinated, and looks great.

As to the engine/oil skid and clearances we’ve been talking about in this thread, you definitely lose more with the stamped steel pan. Here are the pertinent measurements. Keep in mind I estimate I have lost a good 0.5“ to 1” of overall loss to height/lift just from the weight of my various mods alone (winch, grill guard, skids, rock sliders, etc.), and that of course factors into/contributes to the below:

Before Engine/Oil skid install clearance was approximately:

15.75” to lowest point of steel oil pan
15” to lowest point of Fumoto Valve
12.25” to lowest point of exhaust crossover
11“ to lowest point of skid band over exhaust crossover (so effectively true lowest point of exhaust crossover)

After Engine/Oil skid install clearance was approximately:

13.75” at front (highest point) of engine/oil skid
13.25” at approximate location of former low point in oil pan (roughly middle of skid drain cover)
10.75” at lowest point of rear of skid covering exhaust crossover

Bottom line, there is approximately 2.5” (without Fumoto valve) or 1.75” (with Fumoto valve) of lost clearance from this engine/oil skid if you have the steel oil pan vs the original aluminum oil pan.

The only other observation I would make is the engine/oil skid is very, very close to the front of the exhaust crossover on both sides of the skid (see pics below). It fits, but there’s no wiggle room. I’m considering pulling it back off and grinding out a little better clearance for the exhaust pipe, but haven’t decided yet.

For folks with the steel oil pan who are especially concerned with every bit of clearance, this may not be a vialble option for you. For my purposes and type of wheeling I’ll be doing, I’ve decided I am fine with this clearance and overall I really like the Rusty’s skids a lot.

Hope this is helpful and apologies for the long post.

 

[Jgc650i]

Another observation with the full skid package. Rusty’s is much more substantial and solid than OEM stuff (obviously) and gives a much more rigid/tighter feel in the drive with the solid crossmember effect, which is nice. An unexpected consequence of that is I now feel a very slight vibration/shudder whenever the MDS kicks in and it’s in 4cyl mode. It’s only very slight, but definitely noticeable. I know some folks rage over how much they hate and want to disable the MDS but I had never really noticed it or ever been bothered by it before. Now I can’t unsee it, so to speak.