Mopar Lower Control Arms. 68322798AA

hardhat

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 11, 2021
Messages
735
Reaction score
1,390
Location
Mississippi
Current Rides
2021 Sarge 392xr
I replaced my LCA with these. They look basically same as the stock arms, but are heavier and 1/4" longer. Supposed to put caster from 4 ish to 6 ish which improves on center steering feel. They were only about $30 each and did improve the steering. No driveline vibes. These are the control arms used in the mopar 2" lift. Easy job.

Also got under jeep and checked the trackbars and control arm torques..........The front trackbar to axle was way undertorqued :(..............

Mine really drives good now after tightening steering gearbox, synergy trackbar/sector shaft brace and these control arms.

I don't think the brace really made that much difference, but is good to take load off sector shaft of steering box.
BEB31AEA-07DA-455B-AD36-BBE9A0D5C5B2.jpeg

The new arm is on bottom. Can see it is slightly longer. Little bit goes a long way here.
 
What is the torque supposed to be? jk was like 125# trackbar and lca/frame and 85# lca/axle. Same?
 
Thanks @hardhat … makes me wonder why Jeep just didn’t do this from the factory since it’s a factory lift…
 
Yes indeed. From judging how hard they were to get off they were that tight.
 
I'd say worth it to crawl under there with torque wrench and check it out. I mainly checked the track bars and control arms. Those are the main ones that would wallow out brackets...

Ben....did you ever get a fix on your lca brackets? A good fix could be to get a 1/8-3/16 piece of metal with hole drilled out to exact size of bolt (absolutely no slop)and then put that on the both of the outsides of the brackets (kind of like washers). Tighten bolt down then stitch weld the "washers" to the bracket. This would prevent the bolt from moving in the wallowed holes and would be easier than frame replacement as I heard posted on here somewhere else.

Also the bolts are threaded the whole way which is not ideal. Would be better to have bolt with only threads on the end so at least one side the bolt would have a solid shaft mating with bracket instead of threads. The current design relies on the clamping force of the bolt (you can see grooves cut in the bushing on the lca to help bite into the bracket)
 
I'd say worth it to crawl under there with torque wrench and check it out. I mainly checked the track bars and control arms. Those are the main ones that would wallow out brackets...

Ben....did you ever get a fix on your lca brackets? A good fix could be to get a 1/8-3/16 piece of metal with hole drilled out to exact size of bolt (absolutely no slop)and then put that on the both of the outsides of the brackets (kind of like washers). Tighten bolt down then stitch weld the "washers" to the bracket. This would prevent the bolt from moving in the wallowed holes and would be easier than frame replacement as I heard posted on here somewhere else.

Also the bolts are threaded the whole way which is not ideal. Would be better to have bolt with only threads on the end so at least one side the bolt would have a solid shaft mating with bracket instead of threads. The current design relies on the clamping force of the bolt (you can see grooves cut in the bushing on the lca to help bite into the bracket)
Engineers just recommended tightening the bolts, who would of thunk that. We will reevaluate the brackets when we lift it. Might do a long arm but we have already discussed exactly what you are describing…thanks for the suggestion.
 
Engineers just recommended tightening the bolts, who would of thunk that. We will reevaluate the brackets when we lift it. Might do a long arm but we have already discussed exactly what you are describing…thanks for the suggestion.
You probably will be fine tightening the bolts. I do think the design relies on the clamping force to do the primary holding after looking at the grooves on the lca bushing.
 
You probably will be fine tightening the bolts. I do think the design relies on the clamping force to do the primary holding after looking at the grooves on the lca bushing.
We shall see, I’m still gonna drive it like stole it and see what happens. All good for now, been 3 weeks or so
 
Following up on this mod.... anyone else install the lower Mopar Lower Control Arms Part# 68322798AA ?

Anyone have issues after putting miles on with the stock oem front joint of the drive shaft at 6 degrees?

I'd like to improve the tracking and center steering on my 2024 392 a little.
 
Last edited:
Following up on this mod.... anyone else install the lower Mopar Lower Control Arms Part# 68322798AA ?

Anyone have issues after putting miles on with the stock oem front joint of the drive shaft at 6 degrees?

I'd like to improve the tracking and center steering on my 2024 392 a little.
No issues, had them on for probably 2,500 miles tracks far better w them.
 
Also if you’re going to install them yourself without a lift, jack up the frame on whichever side you’re replacing first and it’ll line up perfect. Replace the first side and the other side will also be lined up without needing to jack it up.
 
Also if you’re going to install them yourself without a lift, jack up the frame on whichever side you’re replacing first and it’ll line up perfect. Replace the first side and the other side will also be lined up without needing to jack it up.
This is accurate, if you do the 1st side on the ground, the 2nd side will not be lined up and you'll need to slightly jack the 2nd side and use a ratchet strap to pull it into alignment.
And put on your big boy pants, 190 ft/lbs is not easy for 99% of humanity.
If you weigh enough you can let gravity do the work... 😏
 
This is accurate, if you do the 1st side on the ground, the 2nd side will not be lined up and you'll need to slightly jack the 2nd side and use a ratchet strap to pull it into alignment.

If you weigh enough you can let gravity do the work... 😏
I needed no ratchet strap and no jack for the second side. On mine, once the first side was lined up and replaced the second side went in no problem.
 
I needed no ratchet strap and no jack for the second side. On mine, once the first side was lined up and replaced the second side went in no problem.
Right, I did it on the ground without jacking the 1st side, then I needed to jack and strap it it to pull it into alignment.
 
I did it on the ground. I just turned the steering wheel a little to align the hole.
 
Back
Top