MetalCloak Skid bracket (fuel tank) too short?

PlumCrazy392

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Jeep 392 of the Month
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392 with MetalCloak skids, RH muffler skid, IronMan sliders...still sporting 33s
Today I started off just wanting to install my Rock Hard Muffler Skid, but that went pretty easy and so I dove into my MetalCloak belly skids. The tranny skid went on perfect, holes were perfectly aligned. I skipped the oil pan/ motor skid for now. Did not have it in my to tackle that. Fuel skid went on fine until the bracket that is on the inside of the skid plate by the drive shaft. Part CP-6084. Even while jacking up the fuel tank skid with more pressure than I even felt comfortable putting on the fuel tank/fuel skid, the bracket seemed half inch too short. Directions they send are actually for a regular JL, but my exploded diagram was for the 392 and all stamped parts, including this bracket matches. The only thing I can think of is that I have a near full tank of gas, and perhaps there is more compression (and less weight of course) had I done this with an empty tank. The MetalCloak skid goes over top the factory skid. I will contact MC Monday, but I know some people on the forum have already gone this route. So, I am asking, did anyone else have issues with this bracket being too short? Thanks!
 
Did you get this installed..?? Mine went on just fine with ease. I hade between 1/2 and 3/4 of a tank of gas. I can double check later on mine for the stamping on the bracket if it is visible.
 
Did you get this installed..?? Mine went on just fine with ease. I hade between 1/2 and 3/4 of a tank of gas. I can double check later on mine for the stamping on the bracket if it is visible.
Not yet. Luckily, it is driveable with all the other bolts tightened up. MetalCloak asked me to send a pic, and I can't do that till tomorrow. Below is the bracket itself. Good to hear that yours went on so clean. Mine...ugh. I tried so hard. If you have a pic of this bracket installed, perhaps I am doing something stupid. Thanks for the response. Appreciated, regardless of outcome!
 

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When you tackle the front engine/oil pan skid, remove the front passenger tire and go in through the wheel well. Takes 2 minutes to take the tire off and gives you plenty of room to get in there and work on that passenger side fastener. On the driver side, it is super easy if you have a long extension to go from the top side. Pop the hood and look down and the fastener is visible and easily removed.
Metalcloak supplies longer motor mount fasteners. You reinstall the new fasteners from the top going down and that acts as a stud for mounting the bracket from the bottom side, and then the nut under the bracket. I had to call Metalcloak for verification of that step too. The little round threaded piece from the bottom side of the motor mount stays in place. DO NOT instal like this picture. There will be nothing holding down the motor mount from that fastener if you reinstall from the bottom going up.
 

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I think that bracket in you pic is farthest rear bracket that attaches near the rear passenger tire, not the inside near drive shaft bracket
 
I might be completely wrong though... that was 2 weeks ago... lol
 
I might be completely wrong though... that was 2 weeks ago... lol
Now that I look at the description (rear gusset and mid gusset) you may have given me the hint that I needed. By the angles of the brackets, it seems counter intuitive, but I will try and am excited. I have a busy week, but will follow up. If it works, I owe you a beer.
 
I had to look at that mid bracket and flip it once or twice before it made sense.. lol
 
Here are a few pics. First three are the mid bracket. 4th is the rear bracket and last is the motor mount bolt.
 

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Here are a few pics. First three are the mid bracket. 4th is the rear bracket and last is the motor mount bolt.
It worked! All good, and you gave me faith to try the motor skid on my own. Thanks again.
 
It worked! All good, and you gave me faith to try the motor skid on my own. Thanks again.
Were you able to get your motor/oil pan skid installed..??
 
Were you able to get your motor/oil pan skid installed..??
Hello Petes,
Got some time to crawl under the 392 today. I have some questions. I understand I am to remove the existing bolt which is inserted top down, and replace with new MetalCloak bolt, also top down. Both sides, correct?
Your picture 19405 jpg is the Passenger side, correct?
And the motor bolt replaced is the single one, to the rear, on the Passenger side. In my Pass Side Pic it is the bolt on the right, which is towards the rear of the Jeep. Correct?
Assuming this is right, you must remove the Pass Tire/Wheel and also the fender liner, correct? The entire fender liner, or just remove the main bolts holding in the liner, and not all the connections along the lip of the fender? You must come in (to the motor bolt) from the top of the bolt, via the wheel well, so I am curious how much of the liner I need to remove?
On to the Driver side. The left of the photo is towards the front of the Jeep. The single bolt that is closest to the rear of the Jeep is the one that gets replaced, and used to hold the bracket, correct?
It almost feels like I can access that Driver Side Motor bolt from underneath, but I will also look from above and use an extension on my ratchet if easier. Is this "single bolt" that stands along the one I am to use?

Thanks so much!
 

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Yes, it is the single rear bolt on both sides. I only removed the front passenger tire and just lifted the fender liner for access. I pulled it outward toward me and just kinda wedged something there to hold it up a little bit. I didn't remove the fender/flare or liner.
If you have a long extension, it is super easy to remove the driver side from under the hood. It is a straight shot down to it.
I used a 6 point socket as well. I saw a thread where someone used a 12 Pont and stripped the passenger side bolt head.
 
Yes, it is the single rear bolt on both sides. I only removed the front passenger tire and just lifted the fender liner for access. I pulled it outward toward me and just kinda wedged something there to hold it up a little bit. I didn't remove the fender/flare or liner.
If you have a long extension, it is super easy to remove the driver side from under the hood. It is a straight shot down to it.
I used a 6 point socket as well. I saw a thread where someone used a 12 Pont and stripped the passenger side bolt head.
Mission Completed! Thanks for your help. All my skids are on. Following your tips, it was not too bad, and I did not even have to remove the passenger tire (just cranked it hard to the left to create a gap). Metal Cloak provided me two bolts I did not use, but did not send me the two nuts for the motor mount bolts, so Ace Hardware to the rescue. I think someone got it wrong. Anyhow, I feel good about the install and in the end I am glad I did it myself. Anyone reading this, you can install the tranny skid first, and fuel skid next, and when up for the bigger challenge, motor skid last. Having a nice selection of ratchet extension lengths is helpful, if not necessary. I used no power tools for this job. I did not like that MC used standard JL pics for the directions, when the 392 is very different. I will say, the product itself is stellar and dimensions perfect. All holes lined up first time. I managed this install with blocks of wood/ tire jack to raise up the heavy skid plates, and did it solo. No lift, and I think it was easier working on my back. I can't wait to go wheel with this protection (that oil pan needs it!). Moab in a couple weeks (Elephant Hill and more....). Cheers! (Time for a G&T)
 
Mission Completed! Thanks for your help. All my skids are on. Following your tips, it was not too bad, and I did not even have to remove the passenger tire (just cranked it hard to the left to create a gap). Metal Cloak provided me two bolts I did not use, but did not send me the two nuts for the motor mount bolts, so Ace Hardware to the rescue. I think someone got it wrong. Anyhow, I feel good about the install and in the end I am glad I did it myself. Anyone reading this, you can install the tranny skid first, and fuel skid next, and when up for the bigger challenge, motor skid last. Having a nice selection of ratchet extension lengths is helpful, if not necessary. I used no power tools for this job. I did not like that MC used standard JL pics for the directions, when the 392 is very different. I will say, the product itself is stellar and dimensions perfect. All holes lined up first time. I managed this install with blocks of wood/ tire jack to raise up the heavy skid plates, and did it solo. No lift, and I think it was easier working on my back. I can't wait to go wheel with this protection (that oil pan needs it!). Moab in a couple weeks (Elephant Hill and more....). Cheers! (Time for a G&T)
Awesome, glad you got it. It's not too bad of a job to do... just need a little patience on that one motor mount bolt.
 
WOW, thank you both (@PlumCrazy392 , @Petes_392 ) for the help and directions on this. I'm about to place an order for this but the engine skid made me nervous. Fingers crossed!
 
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