Making a TOAD out of a 392

jdb392

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Sep 23, 2025
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Location
North Ga.
Current Rides
2024 Anvil 392 Final Edition
New to this forum, already have had really good input on questions -Thanks

I recently went thru the process of converting my wife's 392 into a TOAD to flat tow behind our motorhome, here's my process...
Most decisions made were based on the fact I’m working on a 2024 wrangler 392 final edition...which is the wife's jeep:-) so I wanted to be less intrusive to the jeep itself, with that in mind heres some info that I hope will help someone else on this journey.

I was quoted $7-8k for local shops to do this, I ended up spending under $3300 by shopping and doing the work myself.

1. Base plate… went with Rock jock $429 and bought directly from https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9033JLS
Positives: looks great, priced good, much easier to install - you do not have to remove the bumper just the guard plate below.
Negatives: I do not think it will work with non factory bumpers. It was a bit of a challenge to work with the existing winch brackets, but very do-able.

2. Braking system… NSA ready brake supplemental $747 with roadmaster sling $20, Ready Brake emergency break away $146, brake clamp $18 bought directly from nsarvproducts.com
Positives: Much less intrusive than most built in systems, very simple with almost no maintenance, lifetime guarantee, easier to install than other systems- on this wrangler its easier to drill thru firewall directly behind brake pedal and install it by their original method.
Negatives: somewhat a challenge of how to run the cable to the brake pedal, adds about 12 inches to the roadmaster nighthawk tow bar.

3. Tow bar… Roadmaster 677 Nighthawk Tow Bar fits Blue Ox Baseplates $1232 from Amazon (this will connect to the rock Jock base plate).
Positives: It has lights that work great, release levers work great even when in a bind, pulls very good and straight, has channel to house wires and cables to keep off the ground and neat
Negatives: none yet. its normally expensive but the ability to buy thru Amazon with adding the ready brake was cheaper than the ready brute system from NSA, or any other built in brake system/tow bar combination.

4. Lights/ wiring… Roadmaster 157 kit $108 from Ebay. this was the hardest thing to research. With help from folks on RV forums I learned the 2024+ Wranglers had changed and were not going to be easy to wire into the Jeeps lights with out having to cut into the jeeps wiring system and/or add other electrical items as well as adding a battery charger. For this reason I chose a kit that is independent of the jeeps system which was the best option for me. See pic #4
Positives: looks nice even when not on, very visible lighting system, good price, does not drain the jeeps battery, independent of jeeps wiring system
Negatives: it comes with a 4 wire plug, you will need to buy a 6 wire, wires are small gauge but sufficient, I ran wire thru frame which is challenging but very doable with electrical fiberglass pull sticks... and help from the grandchildren.

5. rock shield… Roadmaster 4750 Tow Defender Rock Shield fits Blue Ox Baseplates $499 from Amazon + 4725 Defender heat shield(since exhaust exits the rear of RV) $67 from etrailer.
Positives: So far it seems to do its job and protect the jeep, easy to put away and reconnect
Negatives: expensive for what it is, but it works. You will have to cut a small section out of the top of the front bracket for the ready brake cable to lay in(see pic #2).

If anyone wants any more info or pictures I would be happy to send.
 

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Last edited:
Consider completing the Front Axle Disconnect modification (the mod is on this forum)
It will allow your front axle to free wheel as well as the front drive shaft. This will save you wear and tear and allows the front end to actually track better.

Happy trails!
 
Consider completing the Front Axle Disconnect modification (the mod is on this forum)
It will allow your front axle to free wheel as well as the front drive shaft. This will save you wear and tear and allows the front end to actually track better.

Happy trails!
I'm familiar with the Z Automotive Tazer, but what did you use for the FAD implementation on the front axle? Or if its on the forum where can I see that info?
Thanks
 
Here is the URL for the thread: If you have any questions please ask
 
Have been using Jeeps as TOADs for the past 8 Jeeps and they're awesome. Currently using a '22 XR 392. Not sure about the front axle disconnect input. I've never had to do anything but put the transfer case in Neutral and the shifter in Park and I'm ready to roll. I replaced my front and rear bumpers and put a Rock Hard bumper on the front that allows be to connect the tow arms directly to anchors on the bumper that are secured by the 4-bolts that hold any bumper to the front of the Jeep. Very solid and simple connection and a standard 4-pin electrical connection. The Roadmaster Sterling tow assembly uses a direct air-line connection to a removable piston connection to the brake pedal applying matching pressure to the pedal as I apply to the coach brakes. Neat and clean set up and very reliable.
 
I had a 15 JK Sahara and a 18 JLUR and used both of them for toads, In the JL series the transfer case in Neutral along with the automatic front axle disconnect feature kept the axle shafts from turning the differential carrier and thus kept the front drive shaft from turning.

This is not so for the 392 which is not equipped with the Rock Trac transfer case used with the non-392 Wrangler.

With the 392 and the transfer case in neutral there is no front axle disconnect (or fad) so the front drive shaft continues to turn driven by the front wheels which in turn causes the front clutch pack and internals to turn. This is not the case with v6 and 4 cyl wranglers as the FAD on the front axle is disengaged.

Having a FAD on the front axle prevents this from happening. The ring and pinion will not be turning nor torque transmissions across the front axles. This allows the CV joints on the front axle to be completely unloaded resulting in better turning, less wear and tear and isolates the transfer case.

Personally I don't do any RVing anymore but I can tell you installing a FAD on the front axle along with using the Tazer JL in 2wd mode makes the 392 drive and steer better. Plus less wear and better fuel economy.

Both of these things are a plus when using your 392 as a toad.

IMHO this is a worth while mod for both street and using your 392 as an RV toad.
 

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