Locking Hood Latches

Jeepstin392

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I installed DV8 Locking Hood Latches and sharing for anyone wanting perspective of these units, nuances, tips, etc.
My last rig (2012 JKUR) has the Drake Locking Hood Latches. I wanted this again, but trying to recall 10 year ago mods was a bit of a challenge, so, DV8 it was.
First, I will say the Drake seemed to be better quality. At the time, the mounts were metal. I’m not sure about the new units they sell. This set from DV8, appears to be glass reinforced mounts.
Next, the lock mechanism on the DV8 is larger (barrel lock), yet has a weather cap over the lock, which Drake does not. I can say I routinely lubricated the Drake set with teflon/silicone synthetic weatherproof grease (Superlube) which was necessary in Colorado.

As for the install, straight forward. No directions included. If you’re new to these, check their web site. I believe they have the instructions on there.

I also swapped out the hood mount screws (20mm long) M6x1.0 for 12 mm Long as its a cleaner look.
I used the supplied bottom screw as it’s included and hidden from plain sight and wasn’t as long. They protrude beyond the nut about 7mm.
It’s tight for the bottom mount. If my porky sausage fingers can get in there and not lose a washer or nut in the hood or the engine bay, you should be fine. TIP FOR NEWBIES ALERT: I also had to rely on a box end wrench with tape on one side to help getting the nut started on the bolt.

In the pics you will see.
1. Your discretion if you want the retention cable front or rear mount. I did rear as to avoid snagging anything. This will be determined by the bottom mount. You can also have the cable forward on the bottom and cross it over for rear entry on the retention rod. The cable is long enough to allow this.
2. Shorter mounting screws on the hood mount. 12mm as opposed to the supplied 20mm.
3. I used double stick tape to re-adhere the foam “seal” which will Need to be pulled away from the body slightly.
4. The lock mechanism will touch the body if inserted from the front. With the shape of the hood, there is clearance if inserted from the rear.
5. The bottom turnbuckle mount bolt, which will need to be removed to mount the bottom bracket. Easier if this is in the front, but I wanted for it to be more difficult to access from the rearl. A stubby 4mm Allen wrench will be needed. Maybe DV8 could get these in securoty torx, or, McMaster Carr has them. I’ll be researching.
This is also a weak link in thei set up as a would be thief can easily use a stubby 4mm wrench to retract this bolt and open your hood
6. The turn buckle is cool with the laser etched “DV8” this is positional and can easily be turned into place without much worry on proper hood tension when closed. This too is a weak link and anyone with a 13mm wrench can undo the turnbuckle and again, enter your engine bay.

Advice: If the concern of a 4mm or 13mm tool is a matter for you, consider something else. For $175, I was accepting this, yet a little disappointed that the lock is just a deterrent, nothing else. you can go ceaper and purchase non locking, and a brand on Amazon. The difference is a few minutes (2-3 minutes) of access for a thief as compared to a quick access with a key. On a plus side, the keys are coded. You could get new units. If you lose them, a single too, will provide a by-pass. personally, I prefer the look of the Drake. They look more traditional with e plunger vs a barrel lock.

I also used black reinforced lock tight as it resists vibration and need heat to remove. Think twice before doing this as, if you lose the keys, you’ll be cutting it part to replace or gain access to your engine bay.
 

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Last edited:
Additional pics
 

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Looking great! I was concerned the lock is touching the paint that would cause scratches. Did this turn out to be fine?
 
Looking great! I was concerned the lock is touching the paint that would cause scratches. Did this turn out to be fine?
If you insert the lock pin from the rear, there’s about 2-3mm of clearance. Insert from the front, and the lock pin makes contact.
 
I installed DV8 Locking Hood Latches and sharing for anyone wanting perspective of these units, nuances, tips, etc.
My last rig (2012 JKUR) has the Drake Locking Hood Latches. I wanted this again, but trying to recall 10 year ago mods was a bit of a challenge, so, DV8 it was.
First, I will say the Drake seemed to be better quality. At the time, the mounts were metal. I’m not sure about the new units they sell. This set from DV8, appears to be glass reinforced mounts.
Next, the lock mechanism on the DV8 is larger (barrel lock), yet has a weather cap over the lock, which Drake does not. I can say I routinely lubricated the Drake set with teflon/silicone synthetic weatherproof grease (Superlube) which was necessary in Colorado.

As for the install, straight forward. No directions included. If you’re new to these, check their web site. I believe they have the instructions on there.

I also swapped out the hood mount screws (20mm long) M6x1.0 for 12 mm Long as its a cleaner look.
I used the supplied bottom screw as it’s included and hidden from plain sight and wasn’t as long. They protrude beyond the nut about 7mm.
It’s tight for the bottom mount. If my porky sausage fingers can get in there and not lose a washer or nut in the hood or the engine bay, you should be fine. TIP FOR NEWBIES ALERT: I also had to rely on a box end wrench with tape on one side to help getting the nut started on the bolt.

In the pics you will see.
1. Your discretion if you want the retention cable front or rear mount. I did rear as to avoid snagging anything. This will be determined by the bottom mount. You can also have the cable forward on the bottom and cross it over for rear entry on the retention rod. The cable is long enough to allow this.
2. Shorter mounting screws on the hood mount. 12mm as opposed to the supplied 20mm.
3. I used double stick tape to re-adhere the foam “seal” which will Need to be pulled away from the body slightly.
4. The lock mechanism will touch the body if inserted from the front. With the shape of the hood, there is clearance if inserted from the rear.
5. The bottom turnbuckle mount bolt, which will need to be removed to mount the bottom bracket. Easier if this is in the front, but I wanted for it to be more difficult to access from the rearl. A stubby 4mm Allen wrench will be needed. Maybe DV8 could get these in securoty torx, or, McMaster Carr has them. I’ll be researching.
This is also a weak link in thei set up as a would be thief can easily use a stubby 4mm wrench to retract this bolt and open your hood
6. The turn buckle is cool with the laser etched “DV8” this is positional and can easily be turned into place without much worry on proper hood tension when closed. This too is a weak link and anyone with a 13mm wrench can undo the turnbuckle and again, enter your engine bay.

Advice: If the concern of a 4mm or 13mm tool is a matter for you, consider something else. For $175, I was accepting this, yet a little disappointed that the lock is just a deterrent, nothing else. you can go ceaper and purchase non locking, and a brand on Amazon. The difference is a few minutes (2-3 minutes) of access for a thief as compared to a quick access with a key. On a plus side, the keys are coded. You could get new units. If you lose them, a single too, will provide a by-pass. personally, I prefer the look of the Drake. They look more traditional with e plunger vs a barrel lock.

I also used black reinforced lock tight as it resists vibration and need heat to remove. Think twice before doing this as, if you lose the keys, you’ll be cutting it part to replace or gain access to your engine bay.
Cool Deal! (y) I installed the same. But Be Aware...
Like you have yours installed the pins have to be slid in from the rear going forward. There's not enough clearance going the other way but you can't really tell until an attempt is made. The largest circumference area/ring on the pins, near where the key goes in, has a sharp edge and will hit/slide along the paint & scratch it. I learned the hard way.

 
Cool Deal! (y) I installed the same. But Be Aware...
Like you have yours installed the pins have to be slid in from the rear going forward. There's not enough clearance going the other way but you can't really tell until an attempt is made. The largest circumference area/ring on the pins, near where the key goes in, has a sharp edge and will hit/slide along the paint & scratch it. I learned the hard way.

Does the metal lanyard flap in the breeze? I would be worried it do a steady drumming on the hood or fender.
 
Does the metal lanyard flap in the breeze? I would be worried it do a steady drumming on the hood or fender.
I’ve not observed this on any level.
I can attach a camera and film if you like.
 
Does the metal lanyard flap in the breeze? I would be worried it do a steady drumming on the hood or fender.
No, it does not flap. I don't have this shown in my pics, but you can actually tuck the lanyard down into the valley where the fender meets the quarterpanel. It's a nice fit with no wiggle or rubbing. Additionally, there is a clear plastic coating over the metal lanyard, to minimize scratching.
 
Additional pics
A more OEM and cleaner look. Both them on Amazon and they work just fine. Main reason is to keep them from coming unlatched. I know the latches re mostly plastic and a pry bar can get them open. They serve their purpose.
 
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