GuruMan's 20a build

[guruman]

Thank you both for your experience. However with these issues, you still have access in the boonies, so that's a win.

I wondered about signal reception between Sept-March.

Separate battery sounds like a requirement. With

Signal shouldn't be any different Sept-March... maybe a bit better with less tree cover.

After getting a low battery warning from leaving mine on all the time, I moved the fuse for the cargo power point to make it only turn on with the Jeep. We used it like that for the last two weeks, and it works out pretty OK. When leaving the pavement, we usually have signal for a bit, and by the time it drops off, the Starlink is up and working.

The only drawback is that if you shut the Jeep off it does take 5 minutes or so for everything to come back online, but it was not that big of a deal for us. I use an iPhone and OnX Offroad for boonie nav, and it dealt seamlessly with the disconnect/reconnect sequence.

The only other general observations I have is that when using Starlink, you cannot use wireless CarPlay (CarPlay takes both bluetooth and wifi connections to work). I was constantly fighting between the Starlink connection and the CarPlay adapter, so I eventually just unplugged the CarPlay adapter when I was using Starlink. Also, to get nav on the screen I switched to a wired connection and a dash mount, but. I don't ALWAYS want to dash mount my phone. I found myself plugging in the CarPlay adapter for running about town, then unplugging it and dropping my phone in the dash mount for offroad navigation.

That's a lot of talk to say that even without a extra battery, it's pretty workable.

 

[B.Davis]

I forgot that I put these hardtop lifting points on the other day... Beats running a strap under the back glass or hooking something to the bottom edge of the top when picking it up.

View attachment 22110View attachment 22111

I know this is an older picture, but I am curious how the Topsy Hinge Hoist Bracket Kit has worked for you?

 

[guruman]

I know this is an older picture, but I am curious how the Topsy Hinge Hoist Bracket Kit has worked for you?

they are still on there, but I've never actually lifted the top with them.... my top hoist was not installed in this shop, now I'm looking to move. So when I took it off earlier in the summer, I just removed it by hand with some help.

I am pretty interested in using them or making a template from them to hold a rear facing chase and/or work light. Another project for another day.

 

[guruman]

Well, ..... file this under not stupid if it works.


I'm reworking my rear cargo shelf. The custom one is great, but it turns out the dogs do not like to go under it, and they end up fighting over the available forward positions.

So.... I bought the MORryde Overhead Molle Rack.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/morryde-jeep-wrangler-overhead-molle-rack-kit-jp54-079.html


And a cheap rifle case with the goldilocks dimensions....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083V4B1L2

Drilled a few holes, mounted it with some 1/4 - 20 stainless hardware, then....

I cleaned out my electronics box, and mounted all of the Starlink gear on top of the rifle case.

The rifle case makes a great place to store a rifle, or keep all of the less frequently used recovery/survival gear.

This setup pretty effectively uses what would otherwise be wasted space. Plus, it looks as if I would have the option to re-install the lower custom rack if I wanted.

And rolling internet is nice. The old makeshift Starlink mount was a bit rickety and began t make annoying noises. All the Starlink gear, including the dish are held in place with heavy velcro, so hopefully no movement or noise,

 

[Ted392]

That rack is a clever idea. Looks good .

 

[guruman]

I received some photos from my powdercoater this morning....

 

[guruman]

What a bummer, sorry man! Tagging @jeepguru to get his attention. I’m sure he’ll address this and try to fix the weak point.

Thought I'd post an update to my broken stabilizer mount back in September....

Got a PM from @jeepguru explaining the somehow he missed the posting back in Sept.

He agreed to send me the new version rod ends which utilize the stock three-bolt mounting tabs to create a double shear mount, instead of the older single shear setup that failed me.

I'm more than happy with that.

 

[guruman]

I rolled on some new Milestar Patagonia m/t-02 a couple weeks ago. So far so good. I do get some rubbing in the rear while articulated, even with Clayton coils and a 3/4 inch spacer.

I grabbed this shot while out and about in the cold and snow last week. I found the ice spikes interesting.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

I rolled on some new Milestar Patagonia m/t-02 a couple weeks ago. So far so good. I do get some rubbing in the rear while articulated, even with Clayton coils and a 3/4 inch spacer.

I grabbed this shot while out and about in the cold and snow last week. I found the ice spikes interesting.

View attachment 43681

Interesting pic! Sounds like the 37" Patagonia m/t-02 is on the bigger side compared to KO2 37". A 1" landing pad should clear the rubbing.

 

[Brutus 392]

I rolled on some new Milestar Patagonia m/t-02 a couple weeks ago. So far so good. I do get some rubbing in the rear while articulated, even with Clayton coils and a 3/4 inch spacer.

I grabbed this shot while out and about in the cold and snow last week. I found the ice spikes interesting.

View attachment 43681

Interested in how you like the tires ? I like they offer a 38" for 17" wheel.

 

[guruman]

Interested in how you like the tires ? I like they offer a 38" for 17" wheel.

I have not done anything incredibly taxing on the new tires just yet. But they perform well on the road and in snowy/icy conditions and they perform at least as well as the stock tires on the dirt/rocks, and I like the way they look.

 

[guruman]

Interesting pic! Sounds like the 37" Patagonia m/t-02 is on the bigger side compared to KO2 37". A 1" landing pad should clear the rubbing.

Yeah... I'm about to embark in an effort to maximize up travel without increasing my COG.

NVG inner fenders, swaybar relocation, shock mount mods.... whatever I can to get more up without lifting any further. The thought of adding another inch of bumps top makes me cringe. ;-)

 

[guruman]

Thank you both for your experience. However with these issues, you still have access in the boonies, so that's a win.

I wondered about signal reception between Sept-March.

Separate battery sounds like a requirement. With

So, as an update to my Starlink setup. I now have a mini in both my 392, and my wife's Wagoner. The Wagoner was a challenge, as the rear cargo power outlet I wanted to use is powered all the time. The fuse for it has a position for moving the fuse over to make it only powered with the ignition, but there is no wire or terminal in that position, so it was either take apart the interior panels to run new wire, or think of something different.

I found two options:

This one is a configurable timer, but it does require ground, battery, and ignition input wires, so I ended up using the other one for now. It powers on when the ignition is on, and waits a configurable amount of time before turning off. I thought of setting it to like an hour, that way I could stop get fuel, and snacks, or hop out to take in the view without the Starlink powering down. I'll be putting this in the 392 eventually.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZZZLNQN

Then there is this, which I'm currently using in the Wagoner, and it's a simple voltage cutoff I was able to wire it up without running any wires or finding a ground connection by just using a 12v power plug and socket, into which I plug the mini. When the alternator is running and outputting, it turns on and runs until the voltage drops when you turn off the engine. Both the on and off voltages are configurable with a few options set with DIP switches on the side. If you set the cutoff voltage low enough, it will continue to power the Starlink for some time, without really risking that the engine won't start. Easy, non invasive, and I can move it to another vehicle in an instant.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WDLFFFB

 

[Ted392]

Thanks! I've been sidetracked with another project this winter. Almost done with it and back to 392 things, including Starlink stuff.

 

[guruman]

I've spent a ton of time trying to squeeze in the SwitchWorks Alpha 12 switch controller into the 392 engine bay. Finally got it all in, and the unit is DOA. I emailed their support over 24 hours ago and I've heard nothing back.

Man, I really don't want to have to tear this all out to send it back.

 

[Ted392]

I've spent a ton of time trying to squeeze in the SwitchWorks Alpha 12 switch controller into the 392 engine bay. Finally got it all in, and the unit is DOA. I emailed their support over 24 hours ago and I've heard nothing back.

Man, I really don't want to have to tear this all out to send it back.

Man, that bites. Sorry to hear about that.

 

[redbeard719]

I've spent a ton of time trying to squeeze in the SwitchWorks Alpha 12 switch controller into the 392 engine bay. Finally got it all in, and the unit is DOA. I emailed their support over 24 hours ago and I've heard nothing back.

Man, I really don't want to have to tear this all out to send it back.

Where did you mount it? I've also got an Alpha12, and haven't had any trouble. Yours is the first time I've heard of anyone having issues, but anything goes. Bummed to hear it for you.

I do hope SSV/Switchworks makes this right for you. Hopefully swapping either the brain or the power unit isn't too hard on its own once they get you a replacement. At least the wiring will transfer over easily.

 

[guruman]

So... late night anger-fueled wrenching to the rescue.

Still no word back from SwitchWorks. I contacted them again yesterday... still nothing.

So, in a fit of old-man rage, I began ripping it all out last night, starting with the inside controller, so that I could try plugging it into the brain module without using the extension.... thinking that maybe the extension wire was faulty. No such luck.

As I'm removing the brain unit, I see that I have two different harnesses for the brain box connections (this harness is for connecting the cable for the display, as well as connecting the ACC, and illumination wires).

One harness has a relay heat-shrunk into the ACC wire and a couple of obvious ground ring terminals, the other harness does not. The instructions make no mention of this (unless I overlooked it a dozen times, which is possible). So on a whim, I switched them out, removing the one with the relay. And... it works.

I literally had the entire thing removed, and it was the last ground connections on that harness that gave me pause.

I had to jam it back into place by the battery, re-run my battery connections, and redo the interior controller wiring and mounting.

So.... it might be my fault for not asking them about the extra harness (I think I got one with the unit, and the other with the Jeep specific mounting kit).

But I'm not very pleased that they still have not contacted me at all in over 2 days.

 

[Ted392]

Starlink mini up and operational. Busy summer in no wheresville, and yet I'll have service!

 

[BL Beast]

So... late night anger-fueled wrenching to the rescue.

Still no word back from SwitchWorks. I contacted them again yesterday... still nothing.

So, in a fit of old-man rage, I began ripping it all out last night, starting with the inside controller, so that I could try plugging it into the brain module without using the extension.... thinking that maybe the extension wire was faulty. No such luck.

As I'm removing the brain unit, I see that I have two different harnesses for the brain box connections (this harness is for connecting the cable for the display, as well as connecting the ACC, and illumination wires).

One harness has a relay heat-shrunk into the ACC wire and a couple of obvious ground ring terminals, the other harness does not. The instructions make no mention of this (unless I overlooked it a dozen times, which is possible). So on a whim, I switched them out, removing the one with the relay. And... it works.

I literally had the entire thing removed, and it was the last ground connections on that harness that gave me pause.

I had to jam it back into place by the battery, re-run my battery connections, and redo the interior controller wiring and mounting.

So.... it might be my fault for not asking them about the extra harness (I think I got one with the unit, and the other with the Jeep specific mounting kit).

But I'm not very pleased that they still have not contacted me at all in over 2 days.

But I'm not very pleased that they still have not contacted me at all in over 2 days. They may know you!