Got Stock 392 Wheel Questions?

DOTCOM

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I have one of my 392 wheels with me in my office today so that I can measure for a big brake kit. Figured I would offer to answer or check any questions for you guys today. Let me know if you need to know anything or have me check things! Here's a pic of the wheel with my new 37" Nitto's on them:View attachment 217
Would you be able to post a pic of these 37's on the stock rims... with them on your car? This is the exact setup I'm wanting to accomplish!
 

dczarster

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Here you go:
I just measured my own 392 rim and found it was a 6" backspace. I then saw the stamp in the back saying 44.45mm and put that into a calculator. Guess what, it really is 6 inches. I'm looking at a method wheel that is 4.5", -12mm so from what I can work out thats going to poke those wheels out about 1.5 inches further.

I was told that I will still need a lift to run 37's on this so I'm still considering a bead lock of 3.5" and -44mm. The lift that was suggested was a TeraFlex spacer lift that also lifts the lower shock mounts.
 

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I fit the 12.5" tires no problem, and Discount Tire didn't question it.
My Discount Tire Dealer told me they would not mount 12.50 tires on an 7.5" wide rim. Any suggestions on how to convince them otherwise?
 

SmoothDriving479

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My Discount Tire Dealer told me they would not mount 12.50 tires on an 7.5" wide rim. Any suggestions on how to convince them otherwise?
That seems to be the consensus. Most places(including my dealership) won’t do them on stock wheels, since it’s requested that 8.5-9” wheel be used at the minimum. All comes down to safety and liability.
 
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Shockerracing

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My Discount Tire Dealer told me they would not mount 12.50 tires on an 7.5" wide rim. Any suggestions on how to convince them otherwise?
Find a different location.
 
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Shockerracing

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Here is my video showing off the 37's on the stock wheels:
 

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That seems to be the consensus. Most places(including my dealership) won’t do them on stock wheels, since it’s requested that 8.5-9” wheel be used at the minimum. All comes down to safety and liability.
Discount won't mount 37s on my stock rims either and they won't work on beadlock rims at all. They will however balance and rotate them. I had one dealer tell me they couldn't work on vehicles with spacers on them as well which were installed on one of my other Jeeps. I purchased 8.50X17 Hutchinson beadlocks to put the 27x12.50x17 Goodrich KM3s I ordered from Discount and it took some convincing to even get them to agree to air up and balance them after I put them together later this week.
 
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Shockerracing

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Discount won't mount 37s on my stock rims either and they won't work on beadlock rims at all. They will however balance and rotate them. I had one dealer tell me they couldn't work on vehicles with spacers on them as well which were installed on one of my other Jeeps. I purchased 8.50X17 Hutchinson beadlocks to put the 27x12.50x17 Goodrich KM3s I ordered from them and it took some convincing to even get them to agree to air up and balance them when I put them together later this week.
They told me they couldn't mount to the factory wheels because they were beadlocks, so I had to physically remove the trim ring to prove to them that they were not beadlocks. But after that they had no problem mounting the 37x12.5's on my stock 7.5" wheels.
 

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I have one of my 392 wheels with me in my office today so that I can measure for a big brake kit. Figured I would offer to answer or check any questions for you guys today. Let me know if you need to know anything or have me check things! Here's a pic of the wheel with my new 37" Nitto's on them:View attachment 217
Nittos always get me all fired up... they look bad ass rough!
 

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Les Schwab told me they couldn’t fit a 37” Nitto on a 17” under 8” wide.
READ THIS VERY CAREFULLY, WILL IT FIT ON A STOCK RIM YES IT WILL. IS IT SAFE- NOOOOOO!!!!

DO YOU NOTICE THE FIRST THING YOU SEE IN THE PIC IS HOW BUBBLED THE TIRE LOOKS, LIKE A BIG BELLY? THAT IS WHERE ALL THE EXTRA RUBBER GOES (easy, simple way to explain it to keep it simple) TO SINCE THE WHEEL IS TOO NARROW.

I DID THIS ONCE, ACTUALLY WITH AN OLD NITTO PREVIOUS GENERATION, AND THE JEEP WANDERED ALL OVER THE HIGHWAY.

I WOULD HIGH SUGGEST NOT DOING THIS, AND DONT BE SURPRISED IF YOU EVER HAVE AN INSURANCE CLAIM FOR AN ACCIDENT CAUSED BY DRIVER LOSING CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE OR GETTING A RECKLESS DRIVING TICKET ASSOCIATED WITH AN ACCIDENT IF THE INSURNANCE COMPANY IS SMART ENOUGH TO FIGURE OUT THE TIRE SPECS SAY THIS IS A NO NO AND THEY DENY THE CLAIM.

IF ANYONE GETS HURT IN THAT ACCIDENT YOU MIGHT GET YOUR CLOCK CLEANED.
 
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koszuta

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Is wheel size (17, 18, 20) just a personal preference or is there a recommended wheel size for 37x12.5 tire? I understand wheel width should probably be 8+

For a 37x12.5 tire, what is the proper backspace or offset so the tires don’t rub but also don’t stick out too far?
 
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YukonCornelius

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Larger sizes are preference… but hard-core off-roaders prefer the smaller diameter with more meat, more flex and less chance of damage from obstacles.
 

Smess

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Is wheel size (17, 18, 20) just a personal preference or is there a recommended wheel size for 37x12.5 tire? I understand wheel width should probably be 8+

For a 37x12.5 tire, what is the proper backspace or offset so the tires don’t rub but also don’t stick out too far?
Depends on width of wheel as backspace and offset will be different.

offset is what you want to concentrate on to keep it simple.

too much positive or negative could be a problem as that number tells you if the wheel is closer to the frame or further out of the wheel well. Poaitive could hit frame, negative could hit fender flare areas.

AEV wheels have their specs online under their wheel descriptions.

I can tell tell you I have 20x9 wheels with 37’s and have 0 offset.

I would avoid offsets higher than -10 to -12 to stay safe for rubbing and looks.

as far as positive 20-24 but you can double check the AEV site as their wheels are all within the wheel well.
 

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I’m sure I’m a little late, but I haven’t been able to find any answers or information on this anywhere else. Not even at the dealer.
But, I was wondering if the rings on your wheel/stock wheel are the actual beadlock rings, or are they just beauty rings?
I actually ordered the beadlock rings that you can find in the Mopar catalogue, and at the dealer they found the bolt holes didn’t line up, and they contacted the specifier, told them the correct part number to use.
My dealer told me that the vehicle is equipped with the functional rings already, but I’m not entirely sure as all official information from Jeep says that the wheels are beadlock capable, provided you purchase the optional rings.
They are false beadlocks with the deliviered rings - you must order the full beadlock rings to make those OEM "beadlock capable" wheels into true beadlocks. The true beadlocked version will have 24 bolts holding it on, not 12.
 

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I have one of my 392 wheels with me in my office today so that I can measure for a big brake kit. Figured I would offer to answer or check any questions for you guys today. Let me know if you need to know anything or have me check things! Here's a pic of the wheel with my new 37" Nitto's on them:View attachment 217
I was looking into the APB brake kits and they recommend a wheel larger than 17" or else you have to use spacers.
 

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Here's some visual aids to help show the difference between backspacing and offsets:
392 (red) -
Tires: GoodYear MTR/K 37x12.5x17 (my go-to tires!)
Wheels: XD / XD229 Machete beadlocks
Size: 17x9
Material: Aluminum
Bolt pattern: 5x5 / 5x127
Offset: -38mm
Backspacing: 3.5in
Hub bore: 78.3mm

Wheel Mods:
JL Rubicon TPMS
Standard valve stems
Power Tank Monster Valves in second location
Black center caps
Red powder coated center flanges

JTR (gator) -
Tires: GoodYear MTR/K 37x12.5x17
Wheels: Method / 307 Hole
Size: 17x8.5
Material: Aluminum
Bolt pattern: 5x5 / 5x127
Offset: 0mm
Backspacing: 4.75in
Hub bore: 94mm

Wheel Mods:
JL/JT Rubicon TPMS
Standard valve stems
 

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byhumba

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Here's some visual aids to help show the difference between backspacing and offsets:
392 (red) -
Tires: GoodYear MTR/K 37x12.5x17 (my go-to tires!)
Wheels: XD / XD229 Machete beadlocks
Size: 17x9
Material: Aluminum
Bolt pattern: 5x5 / 5x127
Offset: -38mm
Backspacing: 3.5in
Hub bore: 78.3mm

Wheel Mods:
JL Rubicon TPMS
Standard valve stems
Power Tank Monster Valves in second location
Black center caps
Red powder coated center flanges

JTR (gator) -
Tires: GoodYear MTR/K 37x12.5x17
Wheels: Method / 307 Hole
Size: 17x8.5
Material: Aluminum
Bolt pattern: 5x5 / 5x127
Offset: 0mm
Backspacing: 4.75in
Hub bore: 94mm

Wheel Mods:
JL/JT Rubicon TPMS
Standard valve stems
Great visual! Thx.
 

byhumba

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Here's some visual aids to help show the difference between backspacing and offsets:
392 (red) -
Tires: GoodYear MTR/K 37x12.5x17 (my go-to tires!)
Wheels: XD / XD229 Machete beadlocks
Size: 17x9
Material: Aluminum
Bolt pattern: 5x5 / 5x127
Offset: -38mm
Backspacing: 3.5in
Hub bore: 78.3mm

Wheel Mods:
JL Rubicon TPMS
Standard valve stems
Power Tank Monster Valves in second location
Black center caps
Red powder coated center flanges

JTR (gator) -
Tires: GoodYear MTR/K 37x12.5x17
Wheels: Method / 307 Hole
Size: 17x8.5
Material: Aluminum
Bolt pattern: 5x5 / 5x127
Offset: 0mm
Backspacing: 4.75in
Hub bore: 94mm

Wheel Mods:
JL/JT Rubicon TPMS
Standard valve stems
Why didn't you go with the same offset and Backspacing on your 392 as your Gladiator?

A better question probably is, which look do you prefer between the two?
 
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Membrain

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Why didn't you go with the same offset and Backspacing on your 392 as your Gladiator?

A better question probably is, which look do you prefer between the two?
I like(?) the looks of both - vehicle color and lift probably also plays into consideration...

I knew from the beginning the backspacing and offset was different between the two sets of wheels.

Fitment between the two sets of wheels? Well, perspective plays a big part in how they look.
My 2014 JKURX had the 37s mounted on the OEM MOABs and used spacers - I had this for 8 years and got used to the look and function, minimal stick out.

Heh, had the 229 beadlocks for some time - built them up and I liked the look I ended up with ---
but the stick-out was more than what I was used to... not saying I don't like it, just need to get used to it.

The JTR Methods were a direct and planned purchase and stuck out a bit further than my OEM MOABs - but it didn't take long to get used to them.

I am going put all further mods on hold to sell my current 392 because I have the XR392 on order...
this will have wider fender and I will check the look again... and add a 3.5" lift when I do it :)

Some things... just... need time? :)
 
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byhumba

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I like(?) the looks of both - vehicle color and lift probably also plays into consideration...

I knew from the beginning the backspacing and offset was different between the two sets of wheels.

Fitment between the two sets of wheels? Well, perspective plays a big part in how they look.
My 2014 JKURX had the 37s mounted on the OEM MOABs and used spacers - I had this for 8 years and got used to the look and function, minimal stick out.

Heh, had the 229 beadlocks for some time - built them up and I liked the look I ended up with ---
but the stick-out was more than what I was used to... not saying I don't like it, just need to get used to it.

The JTR Methods were a direct and planned purchase and stuck out a bit further than my OEM MOABs - but it didn't take long to get used to them.

I am going put all further mods on hold to sell my current 392 because I have the XR392 on order...
this will have wider fender and I will check the look again... and add a 3.5" lift when I do it :)

Some things... just... need time? :)
Nice! Both look great. I prefer the tucked-in look a little better, while some like the other look. Glad you have and like both to give us all a nice visual for comparison and contrast.
 
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