Front view from underneath 2021 392 XR

[HearHear]

I was detailing my wife’s car today and thought I’d give my 392 XR a little attention too. Just random pics of the front and underneath, still clean since December but a few spots of rust popping up here and there, mainly behind the wheels. Need to paint those soon with some Rustoleum. Anyway, just some random odd underskirt pics of this incredible beast.

Front:

Under the oil filter:

Full length, no one stole my cats yet:

Driver’s side wheel well:

Behind the driver’s side wheel, with annoying little rust spots starting to show:

Behind passenger side wheel:

Random pink Jeep I saw at a car show, reminds me of Pepto Bismol:

 

[veddersbetter]

Undercoat with a little fluid film or PB Blaster "Blast Shield" .. will prevent it from getting any worse and protect it in the future. (Actually that surface rust will disappear).

Turboencabulator .. thankfully....has way too much time on his hands

Weird Underneath Angles of the 392 XR

While washing Thor today, and wiping underneath, I thought it would be a good opportunity to take just a few weird underneath pics, from the rear. These will either be boring or interesting, but I hope you enjoy:

www.jeep392.com

 

[Smess]

I was detailing my wife’s car today and thought I’d give my 392 XR a little attention too. Just random pics of the front and underneath, still clean since December but a few spots of rust popping up here and there, mainly behind the wheels. Need to paint those soon with some Rustoleum. Anyway, just some random odd underskirt pics of this incredible beast.

Front:

View attachment 4242

Under the oil filter:

View attachment 4243

Full length, no one stole my cats yet:

View attachment 4244

View attachment 4245

Driver’s side wheel well:

View attachment 4246

Behind the driver’s side wheel, with annoying little rust spots starting to show:

View attachment 4247

View attachment 4248

Behind passenger side wheel:

View attachment 4250

Random pink Jeep I saw at a car show, reminds me of Pepto Bismol:

View attachment 4251

When was the build date on this 392? Interesting that you have the new oil pan.

 

[Viking Jeeper]

When was the build date on this 392? Interesting that you have the new oil pan.

I believe the new oil pan started showing up in October ish. I ordered in Oct and was delivered Jan and I have the new one.

 

[HearHear]

When was the build date on this 392? Interesting that you have the new oil pan.

Ordered September 5th, it was completed mid November. It was a really fast build, but took a few weeks transit to reach my dealer from the factory.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Undercoat with a little fluid film or PB Blaster "Blast Shield" .. will prevent it from getting any worse and protect it in the future. (Actually that surface rust will disappear).

Turboencabulator .. thankfully....has way too much time on his hands

Weird Underneath Angles of the 392 XR

While washing Thor today, and wiping underneath, I thought it would be a good opportunity to take just a few weird underneath pics, from the rear. These will either be boring or interesting, but I hope you enjoy:

www.jeep392.com

I did undercoating with PB Blaster Surface Shield (based on @Turboencabulator's experiment) the second day I got my 392. Man I was surprised several places near the transfer case cover and the areas as shown in this thread already showing rust... I didn't do spray paint though just see if the Surface Shield can get rid of those yellow stuff first.

 

[Turboencabulator]

I did undercoating with PB Blaster Surface Shield (based on @Turboencabulator's experiment) the second day I got my 392. Man I was surprised several places near the transfer case cover and the areas as shown in this thread already showing rust... I didn't do spray paint though just see if the Surface Shield can get rid of those yellow stuff first.

And the experiment continues.... After almost 4 months it's clear the FluidFilm just washed away. Something might have gone wrong with the application or it was a bad batch (I doubt it because I bought a brand new can for the test). To keep it equal both FluidFilm and SurfaceShield were applied inside at the specified temperature, on a clean surface, and in the same quantity so I think it's a valid test.

Unfortunately, before I apply the SurfaceShield under my Jeep I want to go around and "fix" any rust spots with some steel wool and then touch it up with automotive paint and clear coat. But it's still too cold outside, so I gotta wait.

However, while I wait I have been coating internal compartments like the doors, tailgate, and body with Boeshield T9. What makes Boeshield T9 different than Blaster SurfaceShield is the viscosity. Boeshield flows much easier and coats all the little nooks and crannies even inside pinch seams, then any excess will drip out for a day or two through the drain holes. After it dries it forms a thin waxy film for long term protection.

To spray hard to reach areas I am using the Woolwax 24" spray wand. For both the Boeshield T9 and Blaster SurfaceShield you need a Spray Paint can adapter to get the 24" wand to fit.

I know it seems like a lengthy process but RUST is definitely a Jeep thing, especially where they put down salt the roads. And 12 ounces of prevention is worth 5103 pounds of cure.

 

[HearHear]

And the experiment continues.... After almost 4 months it's clear the FluidFilm just washed away. Something might have gone wrong with the application or it was a bad batch (I doubt it because I bought a brand new can for the test). To keep it equal both FluidFilm and SurfaceShield were applied inside at the specified temperature, on a clean surface, and in the same quantity so I think it's a valid test.
View attachment 4263
Unfortunately, before I apply the SurfaceShield under my Jeep I want to go around and "fix" any rust spots with some steel wool and then touch it up with automotive paint and clear coat. But it's still too cold outside, so I gotta wait.
View attachment 4266
However, while I wait I have been coating internal compartments like the doors, tailgate, and body with Boeshield T9. What makes Boeshield T9 different than Blaster SurfaceShield is the viscosity. Boeshield flows much easier and coats all the little nooks and crannies even inside pinch seams, then any excess will drip out for a day or two through the drain holes. After it dries it forms a thin waxy film for long term protection.
View attachment 4267
View attachment 4268
To spray hard to reach areas I am using the Woolwax 24" spray wand. For both the Boeshield T9 and Blaster SurfaceShield you need a Spray Paint can adapter to get the 24" wand to fit.
View attachment 4264
View attachment 4265
I know it seems like a lengthy process but RUST is definitely a Jeep thing, especially where they put down salt the roads. And 12 ounces of prevention is worth 5103 pounds of cure.

Question! When I went to order Blaster, it said it’s only good for 175 degrees. I live in Florida, it gets a lot hotter than that underneath the car. What good is it if it just melts off?

 

[veddersbetter]

Question! When I went to order Blaster, it said it’s only good for 175 degrees. I live in Florida, it gets a lot hotter than that underneath the car. What good is it if it just melts off?

Nothing under it except for heat shields and exhaust should get hot enough to affect it. 175 degrees is probably a really safe estimate based on really long exposure.... probably be good for quite a bit beyond that for a while.

 

[veddersbetter]

And the experiment continues.... After almost 4 months it's clear the FluidFilm just washed away. Something might have gone wrong with the application or it was a bad batch (I doubt it because I bought a brand new can for the test). To keep it equal both FluidFilm and SurfaceShield were applied inside at the specified temperature, on a clean surface, and in the same quantity so I think it's a valid test.
View attachment 4263
Unfortunately, before I apply the SurfaceShield under my Jeep I want to go around and "fix" any rust spots with some steel wool and then touch it up with automotive paint and clear coat. But it's still too cold outside, so I gotta wait.
View attachment 4266
However, while I wait I have been coating internal compartments like the doors, tailgate, and body with Boeshield T9. What makes Boeshield T9 different than Blaster SurfaceShield is the viscosity. Boeshield flows much easier and coats all the little nooks and crannies even inside pinch seams, then any excess will drip out for a day or two through the drain holes. After it dries it forms a thin waxy film for long term protection.
View attachment 4267
View attachment 4268
To spray hard to reach areas I am using the Woolwax 24" spray wand. For both the Boeshield T9 and Blaster SurfaceShield you need a Spray Paint can adapter to get the 24" wand to fit.
View attachment 4264
View attachment 4265
I know it seems like a lengthy process but RUST is definitely a Jeep thing, especially where they put down salt the roads. And 12 ounces of prevention is worth 5103 pounds of cure.

Out here doing Gods work!. Thanks for these great write-ups. Its something I put a lot of thought into myself

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

And the experiment continues.... After almost 4 months it's clear the FluidFilm just washed away. Something might have gone wrong with the application or it was a bad batch (I doubt it because I bought a brand new can for the test). To keep it equal both FluidFilm and SurfaceShield were applied inside at the specified temperature, on a clean surface, and in the same quantity so I think it's a valid test.
View attachment 4263
Unfortunately, before I apply the SurfaceShield under my Jeep I want to go around and "fix" any rust spots with some steel wool and then touch it up with automotive paint and clear coat. But it's still too cold outside, so I gotta wait.
View attachment 4266
However, while I wait I have been coating internal compartments like the doors, tailgate, and body with Boeshield T9. What makes Boeshield T9 different than Blaster SurfaceShield is the viscosity. Boeshield flows much easier and coats all the little nooks and crannies even inside pinch seams, then any excess will drip out for a day or two through the drain holes. After it dries it forms a thin waxy film for long term protection.
View attachment 4267
View attachment 4268
To spray hard to reach areas I am using the Woolwax 24" spray wand. For both the Boeshield T9 and Blaster SurfaceShield you need a Spray Paint can adapter to get the 24" wand to fit.
View attachment 4264
View attachment 4265
I know it seems like a lengthy process but RUST is definitely a Jeep thing, especially where they put down salt the roads. And 12 ounces of prevention is worth 5103 pounds of cure.

What grade of steel wool are you going to use? I have grade #0000 which is very fine steel wool that I've used for polishing some woodwork.

What is the brand of that frame paint in your picture? I can't read it clearly. You actually make me feel lazy so I'm gonna clean those rust areas then apply the frame black paint then the surface shield.

 

[Turboencabulator]

I did undercoating with PB Blaster Surface Shield (based on @Turboencabulator's experiment) the second day I got my 392. Man I was surprised several places near the transfer case cover and the areas as shown in this thread already showing rust... I didn't do spray paint though just see if the Surface Shield can get rid of those yellow stuff first.

I am not sure SurfaceShield will "get rid of the rust", more like encapsulate it and deny it moisture (the catalyst) which will effectively slow the rust process. Interestingly, while all metals (except gold) corrode, most metals like aluminum (doors, tailgate, etc) form a protective layer when they oxidize. Sadly steel doesn't form this protective layer, it does the opposite forming a weak permeable layer that helps promote further rusting underneath. When guys say "that's just surface rust" guess what... its always surface rust. But what maters is what's happening under that surface. Give it time and they'll find out. Here is a great video going more into the science if anyone is interested.

What grade of steel wool are you going to use? I have grade #0000 which is very fine steel wool that I've used for polishing some woodwork.

What is the brand of that frame paint in your picture? I can't read it clearly. You actually make me feel lazy so I'm gonna clean those rust areas then apply the frame black paint then the surface shield.

You know I wasn’t sure what grade of steel wool myself. Maybe #0 grade? I will also use a small wire brush, and maybe a Dremel attachment, not sure. Please share what works for you.

The touchup paint I got for the frame is just Dupli-Color Universal Flat black, but it was just a shot in the dark. I knew I wanted to do the 2-step process of automotive paint + clear coat. And spray paint is such a mess, and really shouldn't be necessary on a new frame. I also decided against using Eastwood's internal frame coating, because that is also a mess, and hard to get good results. Basically, I just want to touch up any problem spots (welds, bushings, bare metal) and then use the SurfaceShield to coat everything inside and out. I am still kinda amazed on my test how well SurfaceShield has kept bare steel protected. I think it will do very nicely on a painted frame. It will be messy and dirty, but rust free.

 

[HearHear]

As others have noted, I have a few little rust spots starting to crop up underneath my new 392 (well new since December). I live in Florida, so I'm not worried about snowy or salted roads. But I do live near the coast, and we have salt in the air and very hard brackish ground water. So rust is still an issue here. Step one in my disaster mitigation will be to touch up the rust spots with Rustoleum. I went to Ace hardware and picked up a little 8 oz can of high-heat black paint. My goal this weekend is to crawl under the Jeep with the paint and a small brush, and just dab dab dab until most of the rust spots are gone.

After a week or so I'll get some PB Blaster Surface Shield (I think Home Depot has it) and start step two- carefully applying it underneath. I don't want to go crazy with Surface Shield, since officially it's a lubricant, and call me crazy but I can picture it causing issues with a lift if you coat the entire bottom with lubricant. Here's my step one project for this weekend:

 

[HearHear]

Found a weird piece of clear plastic that appears to be on top of the passenger side strut/shock absorber. Obviously came from the factory that way, it’s only on one side.

Passenger side front top of strut/shock cover there’s about a 3” x 3” piece of clear plastic:

But on drivers side nothing there:

 

[Jeepstin392]

When was the build date on this 392? Interesting that you have the new oil pan.

I ordered September 4, ’21. I have the steel oil pan as well.

 

[justinB]

Found a weird piece of clear plastic that appears to be on top of the passenger side strut/shock absorber. Obviously came from the factory that way, it’s only on one side.

Passenger side front top of strut/shock cover there’s about a 3” x 3” piece of clear plastic:

View attachment 4287

But on drivers side nothing there:

View attachment 4288

The protective tape is on both sides of mine. Keeps water from settling on top of your coil mount.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Found a weird piece of clear plastic that appears to be on top of the passenger side strut/shock absorber. Obviously came from the factory that way, it’s only on one side.

Passenger side front top of strut/shock cover there’s about a 3” x 3” piece of clear plastic:

View attachment 4287

But on drivers side nothing there:

View attachment 4288

Mine is exactly like yours. Only on the passenger side.

 

[Shortcut]

As others have noted, I have a few little rust spots starting to crop up underneath my new 392 (well new since December). I live in Florida, so I'm not worried about snowy or salted roads. But I do live near the coast, and we have salt in the air and very hard brackish ground water. So rust is still an issue here. Step one in my disaster mitigation will be to touch up the rust spots with Rustoleum. I went to Ace hardware and picked up a little 8 oz can of high-heat black paint. My goal this weekend is to crawl under the Jeep with the paint and a small brush, and just dab dab dab until most of the rust spots are gone.

After a week or so I'll get some PB Blaster Surface Shield (I think Home Depot has it) and start step two- carefully applying it underneath. I don't want to go crazy with Surface Shield, since officially it's a lubricant, and call me crazy but I can picture it causing issues with a lift if you coat the entire bottom with lubricant. Here's my step one project for this weekend:

View attachment 4279

Check out the Rust Store, https://www.theruststore.com for several rust solution and prevention products. I've been using their 'Rust Converter' product for many years as part of my annual "Corrosion Control Campaign" on my 05 LJ with great success while living in one of the ‘rust belt’ states, Michigan. I’ve also used POR15 https://por15.com/ to “repaint” repaired rusted undercarriage/frame components of many vehicles as well.

 

[Earl 392]

Found a weird piece of clear plastic that appears to be on top of the passenger side strut/shock absorber. Obviously came from the factory that way, it’s only on one side.

Passenger side front top of strut/shock cover there’s about a 3” x 3” piece of clear plastic:

View attachment 4287

But on drivers side nothing there:

View attachment 4288

those are to cover the hole.. use gorilla tape otherwise that bump stop tube will get filled with dirt ,rocks and debris. The plastic liner seems to rub that spot. My factory sticky tape was pushed off to the side on driver side as well

 

[Earl 392]

those are to cover the hole.. use gorilla tape otherwise that bump stop tube will get filled with dirt ,rocks and debris. The plastic liner seems to rub that spot. My factory sticky tape was pushed off to the side on driver side as well