Front Drive Shaft Clearance

dgerb

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Location
Arizona
Current Rides
2021 Black 392, 2021 GMC Acadia AT4
For those that have the 3 1/2" Metal Cloak game changer lift installed....are you using the stock drive shaft or going with aftermarket.... any clearance issues?
 
I ordered the Metal Cloak driveshaft with the kit. Metal Cloak recommends a new driveshaft. I wish Teraflex had a Rezeppa driveshaft for the JL but all they have is JK driveshafts so far.
 
I called Rock Krawler yesterday and they said the 3.5" 392 kit is ready to ship. I'll be swapping the stock drive shaft for an Adams. With this much power I don't want to chance running the stock drive almost maxed out.
 
For those that have the 3 1/2" Metal Cloak game changer lift installed....are you using the stock drive shaft or going with aftermarket.... any clearance issues?
Yes definitely needs to be removed and replaced
I went with Tom woods.I got it in two days 1350 u joint.
I do have MC 3 1/2 game changer no issues
 
Eventually someone, (ex. Teraflex-Rezeppa), will make a stronger "factory style" front driveshaft for our lifted 392's.
With our factory designed full-time 4 wheel drive transfer case, I'm concerned about longevity of the front drive shaft with a standard u-joint style front drive shaft. A true CV, ball bearing design, is what we need.
 
I went with the Adams and no issues.
 
Not sure how new but it’s listed under new products on their website.
I think it went live this weekend. They had a YouTube video pop up on it this weekend. I was like well shit this is perfect!!!!
 
Anthony Nichols (Teraflex)
Oct 3, 2023, 12:35 MDT
Hey Troy, Thanks for reaching out. The JL/JT Rzeppa joint is a direct replacement. With our Rzeppa joint, You will NOT gain any more angle from our product like you would with our JK model.
 
Anthony Nichols (Teraflex)
Oct 3, 2023, 12:35 MDT
Hey Troy, Thanks for reaching out. The JL/JT Rzeppa joint is a direct replacement. With our Rzeppa joint, You will NOT gain any more angle from our product like you would with our JK model.
They should prob update the description if that’s the case.
 
No improvement in angle from the factory Rzeppa? that is a bummer. Is there any improvement over the factory Rzeppa? Any reason the JK can tolerate additional angle but the JL can not?
 
Aw man, just when I was getting excited. I've been digging for an answer for months and my 3.5" lift from Clayton is about to arrive so I gotta find a solution fast. It's either 1350 from Toms or Adams, or just keep it stock with mild wheeling. This sucks...
 
Aw man, just when I was getting excited. I've been digging for an answer for months and my 3.5" lift from Clayton is about to arrive so I gotta find a solution fast. It's either 1350 from Toms or Adams, or just keep it stock with mild wheeling. This sucks...
It’s not a problem install your lift . You can drive your Jeep home measure for your driveshaft. Tom wood’s will have at your house in two to three days they will only build you a 1350. We have 63 jeeps on our club many of us are using Tom woods. There have been no issues with the. Tj’ jk’s jl Jlu and several 392’s .
the stock shaft will fail
 
@Earl 392 is giving sound advice. The Rzeppa joint shaft will hold up for a while, but eventually fail, and probably when you least would like it to. I have the metal clock 3 1/2 inch lift and the metalcloak front driveshaft which is a 1310 version rather than the 1350. Metal Cloak believes the front shaft is sufficiently strong with the 1310 joints as the carrier for the Cardan section is the same size for both. In my opinion, the 392's are vulnerable to driveline vibration in the front due to the full-time four-wheel-drive system. I was of the opinion that the smaller rotating diameter of the 1310 joint might be desirable to prevent driveline vibration, but I think that thought doesn't hold water. If I was to do it again, I would get a shaft with 1350 joints. I was originally running 6° caster and I'm now at 4 1/2° and believe that I still have some driveline vibration, but I may be mentally confusing myself.

You will be able to measure your driveline length after lift, but both Adams and Tom Woods already know that information from what I understand for the 3 1/2 inch lift. It would be good to measure and confirm, regardless.
 
Thanks @Earl 392 and @Cali392JL for the advice. Clayton basically said the same thing to me the other day. I can drive away with it and be fine on the road but to get a DS in the budget sooner rather than later. I was hoping Teraflex made a better replacement as posted in the couple of posts above but I talked with them today so as an added measure and confirmation for those seeking - Yes it is a direct level/feature replacement only; you're replacing a insufficient CV joint for another insufficient CV joint with the same (lacking) capability.

Do you guys think I can get away with just a front DS or should I get both front and rear?
 
Do you guys think I can get away with just a front DS or should I get both front and rear?
Best solution is to replace both. I have thus far only replaced the front and have done the Rubicon and a few other decent trails. It is on my wish list though.
 
Thanks @Earl 392 and @Cali392JL for the advice. Clayton basically said the same thing to me the other day. I can drive away with it and be fine on the road but to get a DS in the budget sooner rather than later. I was hoping Teraflex made a better replacement as posted in the couple of posts above but I talked with them today so as an added measure and confirmation for those seeking - Yes it is a direct level/feature replacement only; you're replacing a insufficient CV joint for another insufficient CV joint with the same (lacking) capability.

Do you guys think I can get away with just a front DS or should I get both front and rear?
I have not yet replaced my rear driveshaft ,MetalCloak said I should not need to replace it. A few guys have replaced there’s with Tom woods, it is in the back of my mind to do so. My buddy has a diesel he snapped his front 1310 u joint. Replaced with Tom Woods rear as well. Another friend went for 2 years with stock front but it failed on a run (v6 jk). Do the front budget for the rear. The front is easy to install yourself. Jeep just empty every pocket.
 
Thanks @Earl 392 and @Cali392JL for the advice. Clayton basically said the same thing to me the other day. I can drive away with it and be fine on the road but to get a DS in the budget sooner rather than later. I was hoping Teraflex made a better replacement as posted in the couple of posts above but I talked with them today so as an added measure and confirmation for those seeking - Yes it is a direct level/feature replacement only; you're replacing a insufficient CV joint for another insufficient CV joint with the same (lacking) capability.

Do you guys think I can get away with just a front DS or should I get both front and rear?
I have the Metalcloak front DS and run the factory rear shaft with no problems (Metalcloak 3.5" GC Lift). What sucks about the front CV shaft is that every oil change I have to remove some skip plates, remove the front DS to grease the CV joint. I would like to have a maintenance free front drive shaft. Hopefully Teraflex will make a high angle Rzeppa front replacement DS in the future.
 

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