First Oil Change

byhumba

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Changing the oil at the 1,000 Mike mark crossed my mind. I started to read more and it appears it is best to just do it at the recommended 6,000 mile interval. The first oil has break-in additives.

I followed the recommended break-in instructions, so went hard between the 300 and 500 mile phase, sometimes hitting the red line. This is why I thought the 1,000 mile oil change was a good idea.

Any thoughts?

I will be submitting my oil to a lab for an oil analysis at 6,000 miles when I do my first oil change.

Anyone who did or is doing an oil change at 1,000 miles has or will get an oil analysis? It would be great to compare both analysis.

Below is the break-in period that came with our manuals (posted in other threads as well).

SmartSelect_20210831-163333_OneDrive.jpg

SmartSelect_20210831-163237_OneDrive.jpg
 
I have 1500 on mine now and have plans to change at 2K myself.
I have seen many on other forums with 6.4s doing something similar around that interval, so thought I would follow suit.. Think 1K oil change is fine if that’s what you feel you want to do… Can’t hurt I would say.
You enjoying yours like I am???
 
I have 1500 on mine now and have plans to change at 2K myself.
I have seen many on other forums with 6.4s doing something similar around that interval, so thought I would follow suit.. Think 1K oil change is fine if that’s what you feel you want to do… Can’t hurt I would say.
You enjoying yours like I am???
Oh yeah! Enjoying to the max! Love this 392.

I feel it might actually hurt to do an early oil change. The manual says break-in "continues through the first oil interval," which is 6,000 miles. The factory oil has the break-in additives you need for a complete break-in.
 
I had the dealership do it at 2000 mile mark. They did it without hesitation. Whatever that means. It's my understanding if you change oil too early all it does is prolong the break-in period. But I think you have passed the crucial point anyway.
 
I had the dealership do it at 2000 mile mark. They did it without hesitation. Whatever that means. It's my understanding if you change oil too early all it does is prolong the break-in period. But I think you have passed the crucial point anyway.
Im at 600 miles now and might do it at 3,000, then again at 3,000 to get on the every 6,000 mile interval after that.

I've read some articles saying they no longer add break in additives to new engines while other articles say high performance engines still need these additives. The 392 is considered a high performance engine and this is what confuses me...does it or doesn't it have these additives from factory?

I will do the oil analysis regardless, which can find these additives if present and answer that question.

I agree with you, the major part of the break in period is passed at this point. Thanks.
 
I changed mine out today at about 1200 miles. Figured I'd get the original out of there along with whatever was in the engine when they built it. Used Mopar 899 filter instead of the 339 that came on it. Ordered the 041 (srt) filter for future oil changes. The 899 is same size as 041 I think (at least uses same wrench). 339 seems like a tiny filter for an engine this size. The larger filter fit no problem. User manual said 7qt capacity. Someone posted that theirs only took 6.5 so the recommended to start with 6qts so that is what I did.

With 6qts installed, oil pressure did not come up after 30 seconds and engine started making a hard knocking noise and blue smoke started coming out exhaust..... I immediately shut it down. Let it cool down a little bit and added another 1/2 quart....still not on dipstick. With 7 quarts it was barely touching bottom of dipstick. 7.5 quarts and it is 3/4 way up dipstick.

Just kidding about the knocking and the smoke, but mine did take 7.5 quarts even though my supplemental manual said 7 quarts. 7 quarts was barely touching dipstick. 7.5 quarts ended up being good. Mine has the newer style stamped steel pan.

Will change oil at 6k miles and then 6k intervals after this. Probably doesn't matter about doing early oil change, just makes me feel better. As a side note, the drain plug was surprisingly easy to unscrew. I would never leave it that loose. Took very little effort to unscrew. Yall may want to check yours. Oil filter was appropriately tight.

Amazon had best deal on the 0w-40 pennzoil srt oil. It was around $45 for 6qts.

Lisle 61580 93mm 15-Flute End Cap Wrench Set works with Mopar 899 filter and I think it will also work with 041 filter.​

 
The oil used at factory fill isn’t as “slippery” as synthetic. Typically, mineral oil based is used.
This allows the cross hatch of the bore to properly seat the rings against the cylinder walls. Changing too early, will prevent proper seating, eventually influencing performance and oil consumption.
Typically, 500 miles is enough to make this happen, given you follow the procedure. Additionally, there is often some oil consumption taking place during this break in.
Trust the engineers in designing.
It’s not sustainable for any manufacturer to set these up for failure. Otherwise, warranty repairs and class action lawsuits ensue.

However, I stand by my #1 rule.
Your money, your rig. Do what you like.
 
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I wondering if time enters into the oil change decision. I've had the 392 for about 6 months and it has a little over 3K miles on it.....a mix of highway and city miles....
 
I wondering if time enters into the oil change decision. I've had the 392 for about 6 months and it has a little over 3K miles on it.....a mix of highway and city miles....
It does. The manual recommends for an oil change every six months if you don't drive enough miles.
 
I wondering if time enters into the oil change decision. I've had the 392 for about 6 months and it has a little over 3K miles on it.....a mix of highway and city miles....
The onboard system monitors a few factors when it calculates remaining oil life. Perpsnally, I always change it around 20% remaining which is +/-200 miles of 5k. It all depends on your driving. City and more idling, you’ll see less mileage with the time remaining. Highway, you’ll see more mileage.
 
On my last JK, I ran the relocation kit from Amsoil with a larger capacity filter. You can run the dual set up as an option. I also ran the oil line around my washer fluid reservoir to help keep it warm in winter.
I’m considering the same set up on the 392.
 
Can someone please point me to where the manual states, "there are break-in additives" ? I've never seen that stated anywhere and trying to find it.
 
Can someone please point me to where the manual states, "there are break-in additives" ? I've never seen that stated anywhere and trying to find it.
It doesn't, I think you know that. Break in oil is one of the most argued topics of new vehicles.
 
I changed mine out today at about 1200 miles. Figured I'd get the original out of there along with whatever was in the engine when they built it. Used Mopar 899 filter instead of the 339 that came on it. Ordered the 041 (srt) filter for future oil changes. The 899 is same size as 041 I think (at least uses same wrench). 339 seems like a tiny filter for an engine this size. The larger filter fit no problem. User manual said 7qt capacity. Someone posted that theirs only took 6.5 so the recommended to start with 6qts so that is what I did.

With 6qts installed, oil pressure did not come up after 30 seconds and engine started making a hard knocking noise and blue smoke started coming out exhaust..... I immediately shut it down. Let it cool down a little bit and added another 1/2 quart....still not on dipstick. With 7 quarts it was barely touching bottom of dipstick. 7.5 quarts and it is 3/4 way up dipstick.

Just kidding about the knocking and the smoke, but mine did take 7.5 quarts even though my supplemental manual said 7 quarts. 7 quarts was barely touching dipstick. 7.5 quarts ended up being good. Mine has the newer style stamped steel pan.

Will change oil at 6k miles and then 6k intervals after this. Probably doesn't matter about doing early oil change, just makes me feel better. As a side note, the drain plug was surprisingly easy to unscrew. I would never leave it that loose. Took very little effort to unscrew. Yall may want to check yours. Oil filter was appropriately tight.

Amazon had best deal on the 0w-40 pennzoil srt oil. It was around $45 for 6qts.

Lisle 61580 93mm 15-Flute End Cap Wrench Set works with Mopar 899 filter and I think it will also work with 041 filter.​

I tried looking at the filter installed for a part number but the plastic shield was in the way. I assumed the 899 was stock and the 41 was a larger improvement. I also ordered the 6qt packs of 0W40 from Amazon.
 
I have never heard that any factory oil fill has break-in additives. I was just asking as the OP on this thread repeatedly references "break-in oil additives" and thought there may be something documented now that we can all see.
 
I tried looking at the filter installed for a part number but the plastic shield was in the way. I assumed the 899 was stock and the 41 was a larger improvement. I also ordered the 6qt packs of 0W40 from Amazon.\
The 339 filter below is what came on the vehicle. The 899 has a larger diameter (same as 041 I think). The 93mm 15 flute is the right wrench for the 899. I used a generic wrench to get the 339 off. You can easily see the difference between them looking at pictures. The 339 gasket goes all the way to edge of filter. The 899 and 041 filters have the same size gasket, but it doesn't go all the way to edge of filter. I had no problems installing the 899 but I think the wrench makes things much easier and I would highly recommend getting one.
The 339 is really a tiny oil filter.
1644160858634.png
 
I have never heard that any factory oil fill has break-in additives. I was just asking as the OP on this thread repeatedly references "break-in oil additives" and thought there may be something documented now that we can all see.
I hope you are correct. I did an early oil change at 1200 miles after researching as best I could that there was not a special break in oil used. Unnecessary? Yes. Harmful? Almost certainly not.

My rational for the early oil change is that more wear occurs during break in. Most break in occurs in first 1k miles. Also, there is the off chance that something could've gotten into the engine during manufacturing (dirt, trash, cigarette ash, etc.) Probably not, but I wasn't there watching it being built....

Peace of mind is probably the only benefit, but I know nothing got into engine while I was changing the oil and whatever was in the factory fill is gone..........

Did the same thing on my wife's land cruiser when we bought it new. 150k miles now and engine runs like the day we drove it home....Of course our 2007 Tundra that we bought used with 80k miles, now with 128k runs just as good and I have no idea how it was previously maintained.
 
I hope you are correct. I did an early oil change at 1200 miles after researching as best I could that there was not a special break in oil used. Unnecessary? Yes. Harmful? Almost certainly not.

My rational for the early oil change is that more wear occurs during break in. Most break in occurs in first 1k miles. Also, there is the off chance that something could've gotten into the engine during manufacturing (dirt, trash, cigarette ash, etc.) Probably not, but I wasn't there watching it being built....

Peace of mind is probably the only benefit, but I know nothing got into engine while I was changing the oil and whatever was in the factory fill is gone..........

Did the same thing on my wife's land cruiser when we bought it new. 150k miles now and engine runs like the day we drove it home....Of course our 2007 Tundra that we bought used with 80k miles, now with 128k runs just as good and I have no idea how it was previously maintained.
In all fairness, you can pour sand into that Toyota motor and it would still go 400k 🤣
 
In all fairness, you can pour sand into that Toyota motor and it would still go 400k 🤣
Toyota is ridiculous. That 2014 Landcruiser has had no mechanical issues at all. Just tires brakes pill and filters. 2007 tundra same thing. My 2013 wrangler was another story. Nothing horrific just leaking oil cooler, crank position sensor, rear locker sensor. Our Toyotas have been as reliable as stones.
Want to see how tough Toyotas can be then watch video below.

 
  • Haha
Reactions: dog
Toyota is ridiculous. That 2014 Landcruiser has had no mechanical issues at all. Just tires brakes pill and filters. 2007 tundra same thing. My 2013 wrangler was another story. Nothing horrific just leaking oil cooler, crank position sensor, rear locker sensor. Our Toyotas have been as reliable as stones.
Want to see how tough Toyotas can be then watch video below.

There’s a reason the people who live in the worst conditions drive them. Albeit, war torn and mounted up with a Dushka. 🤓
 
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