Driving in the snow

bigfishbobby

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Location
Plant City, FL
Current Rides
2021 Wrangler Rubicon 392
So we are taking a road trip up to Pigeon Forge around Christmas. Hoping to see some snow, even if that means driving up the mountain to do so. Our 392 has 35” Ridge Grapplers on it. Should I be buying chains? I need some experienced opinions so I don’t drive off the side of a mountain. 😂
 
Unfortunately there's no "snow" mode or other programming settings on our Jeeps so you're at the mercy of your right foot and the rubber on your wheels though it is full time 4x4 so there's that. As for the RGs, I never had any issues with them on my Power Wagon in 3 winters of snow and ice.
 
Unfortunately there's no "snow" mode or other programming settings on our Jeeps so you're at the mercy of your right foot and the rubber on your wheels though it is full time 4x4 so there's that. As for the RGs, I never had any issues with them on my Power Wagon in 3 winters of snow and ice.
That’s good to know. I just don’t want to get in over my head and have the shame of being pulled out of a ditch or towed. 😂
 
That’s good to know. I just don’t want to get in over my head and have the shame of being pulled out of a ditch or towed. 😂
If you get pulled out by a Toyota, you should light your Jeep on fire. 🤣
 
This all depends on if you are looking to go snow wheeling in the backcountry or just sticking to regular plowed roads.

After living in Maine all 43 years of my life I have never put a set of tire chains on a passenger vehicle. That being said I have seen a handful of people who did more damage to their vehicles with tire chains than if they had just slid off the road. If tire chains are not properly used they will rip off fenders, tie rods and shocks. (I have seen the aftermath) I’m not going to tell you not to buy chains or not to use them but if you do, buy CHAINS not those cheap cable things they sell at Walmart and test fit them first, cut off any unnecessary links. The last thing you want is a foot of loose side chain thrashing around like a rabid dog in a chicken coop. Make them snug but not crazy tight and after a few miles stop and check them. Then buy your self a mouth guard and a roll of duck tape. If you are looking to go play in deep snow in the backcountry be careful of axle hop and remember if you get stuck with chains on , you are probably screwed. I would go in with low tire pressure first and use chains as a last resort to get out alive but in deep snow a good snow shovel is worth 100x more than chains.
FADEFEFB-D5D8-499A-BCAB-40A4CE013AAA.png
This is a below average storm where I live, that is my JK on 35s and a 2.5 inch lift.
8A502E9D-8995-47D3-A696-C5FEDC36A95F.png
This is what I plow driveways with, the wheel loader in the back is the only thing I run chains on, it has ice chains on all four tires. One chain weighs 200+ lbs and at 6-8 mph they shake the hell out of that machine.
Im not saying I know everything about chains, this is just my opinion and experience.
 
Should you apply an undercarriage protection against the rusty caused by salt or not?
 
Should you apply an undercarriage protection against the rusty caused by salt or not?
If it was me and I was going to keep the vehicle for a long time, yes I would get it sprayed. If it is a short trip to an area that uses salt or calcium then I would use Fluid Film. Once you return home it is more easily washed off. A more permanent solution is Woolwax. You can still wash it off but it is much more thick and greasy and a better option for long term winter conditions. Both make for a very unpleasant situation for working on the vehicle afterwards. Making the Fluid Film the best option for short term and a Jeep could be sprayed at home with 6-10+ spray cans depending on how thoroughly you applied it. park over a tarp before spraying if you care about your driveway or garage floor.

Took my 392 for its last ride yesterday to top off the tank, this morning woke up to a few inches of snow and the salt trucks running the roads. Wont put my Jeep back on the road until late April.
 
This all depends on if you are looking to go snow wheeling in the backcountry or just sticking to regular plowed roads.

After living in Maine all 43 years of my life I have never put a set of tire chains on a passenger vehicle. That being said I have seen a handful of people who did more damage to their vehicles with tire chains than if they had just slid off the road. If tire chains are not properly used they will rip off fenders, tie rods and shocks. (I have seen the aftermath) I’m not going to tell you not to buy chains or not to use them but if you do, buy CHAINS not those cheap cable things they sell at Walmart and test fit them first, cut off any unnecessary links. The last thing you want is a foot of loose side chain thrashing around like a rabid dog in a chicken coop. Make them snug but not crazy tight and after a few miles stop and check them. Then buy your self a mouth guard and a roll of duck tape. If you are looking to go play in deep snow in the backcountry be careful of axle hop and remember if you get stuck with chains on , you are probably screwed. I would go in with low tire pressure first and use chains as a last resort to get out alive but in deep snow a good snow shovel is worth 100x more than chains.
View attachment 14733
This is a below average storm where I live, that is my JK on 35s and a 2.5 inch lift.
View attachment 14734
This is what I plow driveways with, the wheel loader in the back is the only thing I run chains on, it has ice chains on all four tires. One chain weighs 200+ lbs and at 6-8 mph they shake the hell out of that machine.
Im not saying I know everything about chains, this is just my opinion and experience.
As a fellow Mainer (grew up my first 19yrs there)- I fully concur with everything said here. I never saw people running chains on anything other than skidders and heavy machinery...literally zero passenger cars. Then again that was the '80's & 90's.
 
This all depends on if you are looking to go snow wheeling in the backcountry or just sticking to regular plowed roads.

After living in Maine all 43 years of my life I have never put a set of tire chains on a passenger vehicle. That being said I have seen a handful of people who did more damage to their vehicles with tire chains than if they had just slid off the road. If tire chains are not properly used they will rip off fenders, tie rods and shocks. (I have seen the aftermath) I’m not going to tell you not to buy chains or not to use them but if you do, buy CHAINS not those cheap cable things they sell at Walmart and test fit them first, cut off any unnecessary links. The last thing you want is a foot of loose side chain thrashing around like a rabid dog in a chicken coop. Make them snug but not crazy tight and after a few miles stop and check them. Then buy your self a mouth guard and a roll of duck tape. If you are looking to go play in deep snow in the backcountry be careful of axle hop and remember if you get stuck with chains on , you are probably screwed. I would go in with low tire pressure first and use chains as a last resort to get out alive but in deep snow a good snow shovel is worth 100x more than chains.
View attachment 14733
This is a below average storm where I live, that is my JK on 35s and a 2.5 inch lift.
View attachment 14734
This is what I plow driveways with, the wheel loader in the back is the only thing I run chains on, it has ice chains on all four tires. One chain weighs 200+ lbs and at 6-8 mph they shake the hell out of that machine.
Im not saying I know everything about chains, this is just my opinion and experience.
@Mouse - sounds like you are exactly the right guy to talk about chains and driving in deep snow! Thanks!!
 
Took my 392 for its last ride yesterday to top off the tank, this morning woke up to a few inches of snow and the salt trucks running the roads. Wont put my Jeep back on the road until late April.
Was originally going to use my 392 for my winter driver. I've decided to do as you are doing.

I have an old YJ. That and my 392 are going to be my summer vehicles. I have a bimmer hard top convertible and I'm looking to get a bronco. Those two will be my year round dailies (Bronco for winter driving).

I'm in PA and don't get as much snow as you do, but I have a hefty hill or two to navigate to get to and from where I live. Not that any newer wrangler isn't super capable on snowy roads, but I like that the Bronco has a specific snow/slippery mode.
 
It’ll be my first winter with the 392. My old Jeep GC summit has snow mode, which distributes the torque 50/50 front and rear, it also starts with 2nd gear. Will see how the 392 performs in snow in the next 3 months. I may try the 4H Part time in deep snow.
 
It’ll be my first winter with the 392. My old Jeep GC summit has snow mode, which distributes the torque 50/50 front and rear, it also starts with 2nd gear. Will see how the 392 performs in snow in the next 3 months. I may try the 4H Part time in deep snow.
We have been hit with snow for last month been running in 4 Part time, paddle shift to 2nd gear to start. Much better control than 4 auto starting 1sr gear. My 2 cents.
 
We have been hit with snow for last month been running in 4 Part time, paddle shift to 2nd gear to start. Much better control than 4 auto starting 1sr gear. My 2 cents.
Good to know, thanks. We got some very light snow this week. Will definitely try what you suggested.

Do you disengage the paddle shifter after getting started and back to manual mode when starting again from a full stop?
 
It’ll be my first winter with the 392. My old Jeep GC summit has snow mode, which distributes the torque 50/50 front and rear, it also starts with 2nd gear. Will see how the 392 performs in snow in the next 3 months. I may try the 4H Part time in deep snow.
I had a GC High Altitude and liked the snow mode. Also liked the air suspension when getting out of my alley that wasnt plowed.

Curious how the 392 will do in chicago snow. Obviously had the clearance but wondering about traction and stability on unplowed streets.
 
I had a GC High Altitude and liked the snow mode. Also liked the air suspension when getting out of my alley that wasnt plowed.

Curious how the 392 will do in chicago snow. Obviously had the clearance but wondering about traction and stability on unplowed streets.
Without dedicated snow tires, which is my case for many years, I’d hope the 4H part time would help with more traction. If condition requires, I’d give the the 4L a try in snow. So I just refreshed myself with the shifting procedure.
 

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Good to know, thanks. We got some very light snow this week. Will definitely try what you suggested.

Do you disengage the paddle shifter after getting started and back to manual mode when starting again from a full stop?
Yes - but easy to switch back on the fly to auto at any time. In my area - side toads are not generally plowed so stay in manual paddle shift mode until I hit a plowed section.
If the snow season continues, considering putting studded snow tires on the factory rims, which is the best thing i could do for traction on paved roads.
 
Without dedicated snow tires, which is my case for many years, I’d hope the 4H part time would help with more traction. If condition requires, I’d give the the 4L a try in snow. So I just refreshed myself with the shifting procedure.
Odd how bad that typo is for the 4H auto….
 
What are you referring to?
It’s how it states the power is sent to the front wheels and when it senses the need, engages 4WD.
It’s just the way it’s written. Some interpret that it’s front wheel drive till the wheels slip, then goes into 4WD.
It’s primary is the rear, then when needed, engages the front.
 
It’s how it states the power is sent to the front wheels and when it senses the need, engages 4WD.
It’s just the way it’s written. Some interpret that it’s front wheel drive till the wheels slip, then goes into 4WD.
It’s primary is the rear, then when needed, engages the front.
Absolutely agree with you. The rear power is 100% max to 50% min depending the wheel slip from what I read long time ago.

That 4H part time is also confusing/bad naming.
 
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