Clayton 392 performance coil package installed

Fast-n-Furious

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I've been doing research on improving the 392 on-road handling and also mild off-roading. Following the footsteps of several members, I bought the Clayton 392 performance coil package (essentially 2.5" coils front and 1.5" rear) last year and finally got a chance to get them installed in the driveway.

Resources
- Stiffer coil springs to improve handling?
- Stiffer coil springs to improve handling? Or Hellwig rear sway bar?
- Do you still like Clayton performance coils?
- Bowed springs and correction pads?
- How to unplug rear diff e locker harness?

First attempt failed
Back in winter when I attempted for the first time, I was trying to do the 5-tire rotation at the same time, only lifted one corner at a time. I started with rear right but couldn't droop the axle low enough to put int the new coil while having other tires on the ground. So I took a long break and also because it was cold out there.

Second attempt succeeded
This time I kept all tires on and jacked up the front with my homemade wheel crib to get extra lift. Unbolted lower shock bolt and swaybar end link bolt to axle, one corner at a time. The front was easy and I also unscrewed the brake line bracket from LCAs. The rear was slower than I thought due to I didn't know how to unplug the diff e-locker cable harness (I don't think it's really needed since the e-parking brake cable became the limiting factor) and I also had to unbolted the track bar axle mount. The e-parking brake cable was very tight when I drooped the rear, I didn't want to relocate the cable to under the crossmember this time. I used my breaker bar to pry the rear left coil in place.

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I used the torque specs as shown below. 60 ft-lb sway bar link to axle, 75 ft-lb lower shock to axle, and 90 ft-lb for the rear track bar to axle.

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My long reach (24") floor jack with 6" extension also comes handy, and the new Dewalt DCF891 impact wrench I bought recently made unbolting easier too.

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Before/After comparison
My 392 XR is 2-year old, so all the factory coils have settled. It was 40-1/4" front from floor to the fender flare across the center line of wheel hub. But the front door bottom pinch or rock slider is 1" lower than the rear, so it was definitely not level due to the factory rake. And I don't have a winch.

After the new coils, I waited for two days so things can settle a bit. Now the rear is 1/2" taller and the front is 1-1/2" taller (which also gives me more uptravel). I consider my jeep is level currently. The on-road handling is better too, more sporty and less floaty.

Due to this 1-1/2” increased height, I also measured the center of front axle only shifted to the driver side maybe 1/16”, no need to change the track bar. Will do more search on steering components later if I’ll ever upgrade.


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The Clayton front coils are the same, and they appear to be a bit shorter than the stock coils. But due to the higher spring rate (188 lbs/in), they yield 1-1/2" lift final result.
Screenshot 2024-04-28 at 3.12.56 PM.png



Their rear coils are dual rate spring (137/200 lbs/in) and the right spring is taller than the left one to offset the gas tank weight. They marked with L and R so pay attention and don't use the right side spring on the rear left otherwise you'll have a lean to the right side. Due to this dual spring rate, I also noticed the rear sags 1/4" when my two little kids sit in the back. Because it compress the the top par of the spring at 137 lbs/in. Forum member @hazards280 also commented "the rear sag was slightly greater than stock". I think it'll take a lot weight to fully sag the second part of the spring at 200 lbs/in, and their 1.5" springs are still stronger than the factory ones.

Screenshot 2024-04-28 at 3.13.43 PM.png



Any recommendations for shocks?
I don't plan to lift my rig any taller, I like the close-to-stock look and feel to maintain low center of gravity, especially when later I'll install the underbelly skids and go up to 37" tires. I've been doing research on aftermarket shocks and hope to improve the ride comfort as the stock XR shock may wear out down the road.

I think my biggest question for now is finding the right amount of extended/collapsed shock length to match the XR shocks and these new coils. I don't plan to add any coil spacers. Any recommendation is greatly appreciated.
 
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Killer write up ! What is the dimension from the top of the driver front tire to the bottom of the fender flare through the centerline ? 8” ? Clayton is a nice package.
 
I have been very happy with the Fox 2.5 DSC both on and the limited off-road I have done. They pair up with the Clayton coils very nicely and the 2-3”” lift version did well in the flex test.
 
Killer write up ! What is the dimension from the top of the driver front tire to the bottom of the fender flare through the centerline ? 8” ? Clayton is a nice package.
9”, both front driver and passenger. Keep in mind it’s now 41-3/4” from floor to fender flare. And when I measured 9” the tip of tape measure sit on the edge (a bit lower than the tread center line) of my stock 315/70/R17, 30-32psi.
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I have been very happy with the Fox 2.5 DSC both on and the limited off-road I have done. They pair up with the Clayton coils very nicely and the 2-3”” lift version did well in the flex test.
I’m not adding any coil spacers and don’t plan to. Do you think when fully extended, the Fox 2.5 DSC would cause loose springs? That’s one of my main concerns.
 
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I’m not adding any coil spacers and don’t plan to. Do you think the when fully extended, the Fox 2.5 DSC would cause loose springs? That’s one of my main concerns.
Definitely did not on mine per the flex test. I only added the 1/2” spacers in front because when I removed my spare and heavy pro eagle 3 ton jack I was 1” higher in the rear again 🤦🏻‍♂️
 
Definitely did not on mine per the flex test. I only added the 1/2” spacers in front because when I removed my spare and heavy pro eagle 3 ton jack I was 1” higher in the rear again 🤦🏻‍♂️
Great to know, thanks! I can totally understand the “taller rear” now. Due to the rear coils are dual rate, when I tested with full tank of gas and two kids in the back, they weight 120 lbs, the rear sagged by 1/4”. When no passengers and cargo, measured by the door panel bottom pinch, the rear is 1/4” taller than front, which I still consider my Jeep is level currently. It’s possible the springs will sag a bit more after a while but should be minimal since I don’t have a winch.
 
Great to know, thanks! I can totally understand the “taller rear” now. Due to the rear coils are dual rate, when I tested with full tank of gas and two kids in the back, they weight 120 lbs, the rear sagged by 1/4”. When no passengers and cargo, measured by the door panel bottom pinch, the rear is 1/4” taller than front, which I still consider my Jeep is level currently. It’s possible the springs will sag a bit more after a while but should be minimal since I don’t have a winch.
Yep I measure by the bottom of the pinch seam as well. When I removed the approximately 200+lbs from the rear with the spare, carrier and jack it popped up. Mine is so far from stock (winch bumpers etc) so not a good reference on leveling. I have always been satisfied with their performance but was very happy with the result after the control arm installer did the flex test the combination worked out very well.
 
Yep I measure by the bottom of the pinch seam as well. When I removed the approximately 200+lbs from the rear with the spare, carrier and jack it popped up. Mine is so far from stock (winch bumpers etc) so not a good reference on leveling. I have always been satisfied with their performance but was very happy with the result after the control arm installer did the flex test the combination worked out very well.
I remember seeing you posted some RPM steering pics and their lower and upper control arms. They look awesome!
 
Great write-up! Glad to see the lift is now installed!

As I read the post, I found your thought process along the way to closely match mine. The shorter length of the replacements was concerning to me at first, but a quick call to Clayton confirmed the spring rate change you mentioned.

I had forgot about the dual rate spring in the rear, and completely agree that the increased sag that I saw after install must be attributed to this. In the past when I had the dirt bike on its carrier in the rear, the stock coils sagged less when stationary, but would carry on a bit if I hit a large bump in the road. The Claytons seem to get the sag over with by compressing through that first stage and then hold up nicely after that, without any motion along the way.

I have a heavier bike (KTM 300 XC-W) but I could only find a photo post lift with the Yamaha. Either way, total weight with carrier and bike is ~250 lbs, and the rack has a 6" extension on the tube so I could get past the spare tire. Considering the weight and leverage in play, I am completely fine with this level of sag, but still installed Airlift bags for cases when I have the other bike and extra gear in the cargo area.

Finally - nice jack (y). I've been eyeballing that exact set-up. The next time I do a rotation I'm sure I will pick on up.


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Above photo is Clayton Coil Performance Springs and 37" KO2's.
 
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Great write-up! Glad to see the lift is now installed!

As I read the post, I found your thought process along the way to closely match mine. The shorter length of the replacements was concerning to me at first, but a quick call to Clayton confirmed the spring rate change you mentioned.

I had forgot about the dual rate spring in the rear, and completely agree that the increased sag that I saw after install must be attributed to this. In the past when I had the dirt bike on its carrier in the rear, the stock coils sagged less when stationary, but would carry on a bit if I hit a large bump in the road. The Claytons seem to get the sag over with by compressing through that first stage and then hold up nicely after that, without any motion along the way.

I have a heavier bike (KTM 300 XC-W) but I could only find a photo post lift with the Yamaha. Either way, total weight with carrier and bike is ~250 lbs, and the rack has a 6" extension on the tube so I could get past the spare tire. Considering the weight and leverage in play, I am completely fine with this but still did Airlift bags for cases when I have the other bike and extra gear in the cargo area.

Finally - nice jack (y). I've been eyeballing that exact set-up. The next time I do a rotation I'm sure I will pick on up.


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Thanks for sharing your experience! Honestly that's why after I finished the front coils, I hesitated for a short while (your feedback in my mind) before moving to the rear coils. I even thought about keeping the stock rear coils for a while to feel how they go with the Clayton front coils. But then I told myself just do it since I wanted to know how the dual rate springs performance.


I think you made a wise decision with the Airlift bags, especially for the needs of carrying the heavier bike! My use case involves much less weight, maybe 150 lbs total of the steel bike rack and 4 bikes (pic from last year), but I'll measure the weight bearing characteristics of the dual rate rear coils and see how it turns out.

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BTW, I got the jack extension on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2564360151...QAR3HF&hash=item3bb4c71027:g:PnMAAOSw~Ghj9T2h
 
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