Broken Body Mount Bracket

byhumba

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I tried looking for solutions to my problem and found very little information, so i hope this helps someone.

I was removing my body mount bolts to install my RSE power steps. I didn't use any power tools and used the technique of stopping if I heard a popping noise, go back 1/4 of a turn, and then keep going. Still broke the bracket inside one of my rear mounts. I thought I was done when I felt the bolt had no grip and was now moving freely. However, i knew something was different since the bolt was still being held and something inside the mount was turning with it...I immediately realized it was a bracket. I was able to completely remove the bolt since the bracket would catch if I pulled the bolt down as I turned it at the same time. The bolt was cross threaded, and it looked like it was that way from factory.

I thought of taking it to the dealer to see if it was covered under warranty, but didn't want to deal with the hassle of proving it was at factory cross threaded bolt...and a poor design if you ask me. I've removed the body bolts of my TJ and YJ Jeeps and had never this happen.

I bought a new bolt ($36 - discount = $24), aligned the bracket with the hole, and threaded the bolt slowly until the bracket caught the welds. I was able to torque the bolt as instructed by RSE. The body mount bolts have a different name and four are one type and the other 2 are a different one. I'll post the part numbers later today. Here are pictures of the bolt and the misaligned bracket.

I found this thread in the JL forum with the same problem.


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The bolts can take some force. Those brackets, not as much. I'm posting a close up of the damaged bolt for reference. Strangely, it looks like the cross thread happened midway.
20220207_135205.jpg
 
I think this is where I am at with mine. I got about 3/4 of a turn working it back and forth. I am afraid that at some point I will have difficulty retightening. Worse would be a broken bolt. For now I have retorqued them and rethinking my needs for the RSE. Might be a benefit for this old body to continue my Jeep yoga exercises.
 
That looks like it's going to be a real PITA! I was wondering why there was so much talk about removing the body bolts. I was like come on it's a bolt, remove it, get over it. I just might have to rethink how I want to mount sliders after seeing this.
 
That looks like it's going to be a real PITA! I was wondering why there was so much talk about removing the body bolts. I was like come on it's a bolt, remove it, get over it. I just might have to rethink how I want to mount sliders after seeing this.
Exactly why I chose Ironman sliders. Wanting a DIY project, I looked at each brand determining if it worked for my needs. Frame mounted, no moving parts, step, clearance, powder coated, and true rock crawling protection (but did not have to be totally hard core). On top of that criteria, I wanted to stay away from touching the body bolts. The list of vendors gets much shorter when you look at all these requirements! (Oh, and looks!)
 
I think this is where I am at with mine. I got about 3/4 of a turn working it back and forth. I am afraid that at some point I will have difficulty retightening. Worse would be a broken bolt. For now I have retorqued them and rethinking my needs for the RSE. Might be a benefit for this old body to continue my Jeep yoga exercises.
CPT Papa the RSE’s are awesome. I have owned several wranglers without side steps. Once you have them, you will kick yourself for not buying them several years ago. I’m a victim of the broken frame bolt, but I would it do again. But next time I would have the RSE dealer install them.
 
I think this is where I am at with mine. I got about 3/4 of a turn working it back and forth. I am afraid that at some point I will have difficulty retightening. Worse would be a broken bolt. For now I have retorqued them and rethinking my needs for the RSE. Might be a benefit for this old body to continue my Jeep yoga exercises.
As @CW392ATL said, RSEs are awesome and I don't regret installing them at all. These bolts can take a lot of torque. The brackets...not as much.

I would suggest going back to that same bolt, use a torque wrench set at about 100 ft.lb, and see if the pressure required to loosen it is more than that. What I find interesting is that it's usually one bolt. All 5 were easy, but then came that one in the rear.
 
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CPT Papa the RSE’s are awesome. I have owned several wranglers without side steps. Once you have them, you will kick yourself for not buying them several years ago. I’m a victim of the broken frame bolt, but I would it do again. But next time I would have the RSE dealer install them.
I haven't completely given up. I suppose I just have to loosen it enough to get the RSE bracket to slide in. How did you remedy the broken bolt? I though of taking it to a shop for the install but every time I get a quote I figure I can do a better job. I watched one install that showed them running the wiring with only the insulation on the wires. Made me cringe. I would wrap and get it in a loom. I also suspect a shop would not spend the time on the bolt that I am. I wonder how many they break and how they fix it. Thanks for the reply.
As @CW392ATL said, RSEs are awesome and I don't regret installing them at all. These bolts can take a lot of torque. The brackets...not as much.

I would suggest going back to that same bolt, use a torque wrench set at about 100 ft.lb, and see if the pressure required to loosen it is more than that. What I find interesting is that it's usually one bolt. All 5 were easy, but then came that one in the rear.
I am going to try again. I am using about a 12 inch ratchet and can get it to move. That's probably quit a bit less than 100#s of torque. I am thinking/hoping the 10.9 bolt would not break with that amount of torque. Got some info from RSE regarding install. They said most of the bolt troubles are from 20' and 21's and most often it is one of the fronts. They also said they are about 10 weeks out, enough time to deal with the bolt if I just order them. 2 sets, my wife wanted them on her 18 long before my 392. Haven't tried the bolts on hers yet.
 
I haven't completely given up. I suppose I just have to loosen it enough to get the RSE bracket to slide in. How did you remedy the broken bolt? I though of taking it to a shop for the install but every time I get a quote I figure I can do a better job. I watched one install that showed them running the wiring with only the insulation on the wires. Made me cringe. I would wrap and get it in a loom. I also suspect a shop would not spend the time on the bolt that I am. I wonder how many they break and how they fix it. Thanks for the reply.

I am going to try again. I am using about a 12 inch ratchet and can get it to move. That's probably quit a bit less than 100#s of torque. I am thinking/hoping the 10.9 bolt would not break with that amount of torque. Got some info from RSE regarding install. They said most of the bolt troubles are from 20' and 21's and most often it is one of the fronts. They also said they are about 10 weeks out, enough time to deal with the bolt if I just order them. 2 sets, my wife wanted them on her 18 long before my 392. Haven't tried the bolts on hers yet.
You need to re-torque those bolts to 80 ft.lbs when done installing. So an extra 20 ft.lbs would be considered safe when removing the bolts. Or, start at 60 ft.lbs and then gradually increase the torque by 5 lbs to see how much pressure you are putting on them as they move.
 
You need to re-torque those bolts to 80 ft.lbs when done installing. So an extra 20 ft.lbs would be considered safe when removing the bolts. Or, start at 60 ft.lbs and then gradually increase the torque by 5 lbs to see how much pressure you are putting on them as they move.
Some success!! Thanks for the tip. I felt a little more comfortable with a torque wrench in not breaking it. I started at 50 and it was moving until I hit the spot I was at before, then it clicked the ratchet. I took it up to 70 and was moving again. It did make a few pops, just scared me but nothing is broke. It seemed to get a little easier and I backed it down to 60 and still on the move. I am fairly certain I have enough gap to insert the RSE bracket. The dilemma now is what to do.
1. Can I leave this one loose until the RSE get here, about 10 weeks. The retorque it on the install.
2. Should I remove the bolt try and replace if X threaded? I can get a new bolt but it would have the Loctite on it already and may have to fight it again on install.
3. I could put a temporary bolt in but not sure I would have trouble with the threads on the nut. Thought about running a tap through it but if I was to break or get the tap stuck that could get uglier than the broken bolt.

Thanks again for the help.
 
Some success!! Thanks for the tip. I felt a little more comfortable with a torque wrench in not breaking it. I started at 50 and it was moving until I hit the spot I was at before, then it clicked the ratchet. I took it up to 70 and was moving again. It did make a few pops, just scared me but nothing is broke. It seemed to get a little easier and I backed it down to 60 and still on the move. I am fairly certain I have enough gap to insert the RSE bracket. The dilemma now is what to do.
1. Can I leave this one loose until the RSE get here, about 10 weeks. The retorque it on the install.
2. Should I remove the bolt try and replace if X threaded? I can get a new bolt but it would have the Loctite on it already and may have to fight it again on install.
3. I could put a temporary bolt in but not sure I would have trouble with the threads on the nut. Thought about running a tap through it but if I was to break or get the tap stuck that could get uglier than the broken bolt.

Thanks again for the help.
Very nice! You don't have to remove the bolt completely. Since you have it already loose enough to get the RSE brackets on, just re-torque them to 80 ft.lbs when done with the install. if you feel the torque wrench is clicking at 80 and the bolt is not all the way in, then do remove it completely and replace it.
 
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Very nice! You don't have to remove the bolt completely. Since you have it already loose enough to get the RSE brackets on, just re-torque them to 80 ft.lbs when done with the instal. if you feel the torque wrench is clicking at 80 and the bolt is not all the way in, then do remove it completely and replace it.
Thanks, I was able to spin it back, went in smooth. I also checked my wife's 18 and looks like they will back out ok. I just ordered 2 sets.
 
Thanks, I was able to spin it back, went in smooth. I also checked my wife's 18 and looks like they will back out ok. I just ordered 2 sets.
I backed mine out a little bit then used an air chisel to push the washer up on the bolt to allow enough space to insert the RSE brackets in. I think it is risky to remove the bolts completely if they are turning hard. I have now installed these on 3 JL wranglers and have had no problems.
 
I backed mine out a little bit then used an air chisel to push the washer up on the bolt to allow enough space to insert the RSE brackets in. I think it is risky to remove the bolts completely if they are turning hard. I have now installed these on 3 JL wranglers and have had no problems.
UnfortunatelyI don't have an air chisel. Any other ideas to get space on the washers. I felt the ridges on the bolt and thought I could loosen the bolt and tap it with a socket larger than the head of the bolt but afraid I might
damage the nut or break welds.
 
The instructions say to use a file to file the lip down, not sure how long that would take. I guess you can try and see if you have any luck.
 
The instructions say to use a file to file the lip down, not sure how long that would take. I guess you can try and see if you have any luck.
This is what I did. Took me about 3 min per bolt.
 
I know this is old but I had the same problem and found that using magnets works. Put strong magnets as close as you can and that will hold the bracket in place to get the bolt going. It takes a lot of patience. I removed the bolts due to techniques I saw on YouTube. Not worth it. Just loosen as far as you need to file the threads in place. It took me about 10 minutes to file vs 4 hours getting the bolts reinstalled when completely removed.
 
I did notice that on my 2024 there was NO red Loctite at all on any of the bolts(bought an induction heater and never needed it). and I literally had no problem with the body bolts (now lining up the pinch seam holes was a NIGHTMARE)
 
I did notice that on my 2024 there was NO red Loctite at all on any of the bolts(bought an induction heater and never needed it). and I literally had no problem with the body bolts (now lining up the pinch seam holes was a NIGHTMARE)
My 2022 JLU only the front bolt on each side had it.
 
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