Best 3.5' Lift Kit w/coil overs for Wrangler 392 with XR package

[DiAngeloJ17]

Currently I am still on the factory lift on the Wrangler 392 XR package with the factory BFG KO2s they come with. Looking to stay with the same tire size, 35's, or poss 37s, but going with a higher lift kit for longer travel. Any thoughts on your lift kits you have or anyone looking and need help comparing?

I have seen a lot of good reviews with rock krawler. Additionally have seen evo and clayton as well just not many reviews or the components they come with are subpar.

What are your thoughts?

 

[guruman]

I had the 6-pack edition of the MetalCloak 4.5 inch lift on my last JK. I don't know offhand what they make for the 392, but I was pretty happy with the quality and performance FWIW.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

4.5 is really big even for 37s. I would look at a 2.5 for 35s and a 3.5 for 37s.

Clayton
Teraflex
MC
RK

Any of them as a complete kit will be good. I went with Teraflex Alpine RT3/Falcon 3.2 and it works very well. and looks great with 37s. I think it will work fine with 40s and some fender work which will will likely do at some point.

 

[jeepguru]

I have a TeraFlex 4.5" on my 392 with 42" tires, so my opinion is go with a 3.5" for 37s. TeraFlex and Rock Krawler would be my #1 and #2 brands. TeraFlex joints don't have to be serviced and their parts are readily available. You can also use their Falcon 3.3 Series Shocks which pair perfectly since they developed them.

Here's mine next to my wife's stock 2024 392 with the XR Package. The 2nd is a normal Rubi with aa 3.5" TeraFlex CT3 and 37s.

 

[DiAngeloJ17]

Thank you for all the feedback, I am going to consider going with the 3.5 inch lift kit and will look into the rock krawler, terraflex, and the other brands mentioned. Any other feedback or reviews would be great!

 

[Focker]

I would agree with everyone else on the 3.5" and 37's as the sweet spot unless you really want to mess with solving vibration from the driveshaft and other little tidbits. I just finished the MetalCloak 3.5" with the new black shocks and 37s in the last two weeks and LOVE it. For sure a vote from me for a set up to look at. I will be posting a complete build thread in the next few weeks after I get that re-gear done.

 

[AUSTX]

I have the TeraFlex CT 2 on 37s with their Falcon SP 3.3 adj. shocks and their Falcon Nexus adj steering stabilizer. Their coils are corner specific to counter weight bias so I have zero lean. The combo provides a very stable and flat ride. I've been using TeraFlex for many years and been very happy.

 

[Phil921]

I'm running a fairly basic Teraflex 3.5" Sport ST3 with 38" (37.75") Nitto RG's and have subsequently added the TF Alpine Control Arms, HD Tie Rod & Drag Link, the Falcon 3.3's all around with the Nexus. It has run very well on & off road thus far. IMO, however, I have found the TF Springs to be somewhat on the softer side for me; particularly in the rear and when loaded down.... looking at Clayton options for the next build phase. I too have run TF products for quite some time and have not been disappointed.

 

[Phil921]

I have the TeraFlex CT 2 on 37s with their Falcon SP 3.3 adj. shocks and their Falcon Nexus adj steering stabilizer. Their coils are corner specific to counter weight bias so I have zero lean. The combo provides a very stable and flat ride. I've been using TeraFlex for many years and been very happy.

Agree 100 on the lack of lean on cornering, but I do experience a** drop in the rear when loaded down and I think both kits come with the same springs; I could be wrong......

 

[AUSTX]

Agree 100 on the lack of lean on cornering, but I do experience a** drop in the rear when loaded down and I think both kits come with the same springs; I could be wrong......

I can't comment on any drop as I haven't loaded it with anything as of yet. I will say this set of spring is firmer overall than the similar TeraFlex setup on my JKUR. But, the 392 still needs some braking-in as well. I should add I have the shocks on the softest setting but they are digressive tech as opposed to the progressive Fox I had on my JKUR.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

I'm running a fairly basic Teraflex 3.5" Sport ST3 with 38" (37.75") Nitto RG's and have subsequently added the TF Alpine Control Arms, HD Tie Rod & Drag Link, the Falcon 3.3's all around with the Nexus. It has run very well on & off road thus far. IMO, however, I have found the TF Springs to be somewhat on the softer side for me; particularly in the rear and when loaded down.... looking at Clayton options for the next build phase. I too have run TF products for quite some time and have not been disappointed.

How much weight are you running? When I wheel, I have 2 slides, a loaded 37qt fridge, Milwaukee XL tool box fully loaded with tools, recovery gear, powerstation, chairs, chainsaw, MC bumpers and various bags and mine is more on the stiff side and barely squats in back.

 

[ParadigmDawg]

I can't comment on any drop as I haven't loaded it with anything as of yet. I will say this set of spring is firmer overall than the similar TeraFlex setup on my JKUR. But, the 392 still needs some braking-in as well. I should add I have the shocks on the softest setting but they are digressive tech as opposed to the progressive Fox I had on my JKUR.

Mine also stays in the softest setting and I don't think mine ever dropped any after they "settled in">

 

[Phil921]

How much weight are you running? When I wheel, I have 2 slides, a loaded 37qt fridge, Milwaukee XL tool box fully loaded with tools, recovery gear, powerstation, chairs, chainsaw, MC bumpers and various bags and mine is more on the stiff side and barely squats in back.

Probably similar weight or close, but what matters moreso is the rate on the rears as installed with the ST3 back in '22... I dont know if changes have been made. I will validate my rears if I ever get her out of dealer service...

 

[WHLN392]

I'm looking to add 38 inch Nitto Ridge Grapplers in my phase 2 build in a few months.

My goal is to keep COG as low as possible to maintain stability in those more aggressive offroad off camber situations.

So I'm actually going to go with 2.5 inch Rock Krawler springs (with aluminum mid arms etc), split my factory XR fenders and trim the rear pinch seam to maintain full articulation with no or minimal rubbing.

Hope that gives a another perspective

 

[Phil921]

I'm looking to add 38 inch Nitto Ridge Grapplers in my phase 2 build in a few months.

My goal is to keep COG as low as possible to maintain stability in those more aggressive offroad off camber situations.

So I'm actually going to go with 2.5 inch Rock Krawler springs (with aluminum mid arms etc), split my factory XR fenders and trim the rear pinch seam to maintain full articulation with no or minimal rubbing.

Hope that gives a another perspective

As a side note, I've not had any COG issues with the 3.5 and have run some fairly challenging lines particularly up in Utah... the pucker factors' gonna be there at 2.5 just as much as 3.5. Unless you're going to be running a bunch over overlanding gear up top, I sense you'd have no worries...something to consider before you start trimming out for 38's....

 

[WHLN392]

As a side note, I've not had any COG issues with the 3.5 and have run some fairly challenging lines particularly up in Utah... the pucker factors' gonna be there at 2.5 just as much as 3.5. Unless you're going to be running a bunch over overlanding gear up top, I sense you'd have no worries...something to consider before you start trimming out for 38's....

Makes total sense what you are saying and agree.

Not an overlander just a daily driver that I like to go rock crawling/adventures when I get free time.

I had a 3.5 inch lift on my previous JLUR on 37s and this time round want to do the 2.5 on 38s for the reason I mention (even if only psychological) but also because:

1. Driveline angles slightly better, less chance for vibrations
2. In theory it should feel more planted both on and offroad
3. One inch less height so I can appease the wife lol
4. Don't mind splitting the fenders and trimming the rear pinch seam to keep the 38s tucked in (less poke, better scrub radius) a low base and make up for it with down travel and skids.
5. TBH also something a bit different then normal convention

If it doesn't work I can always go up

 

[Phil921]

Makes total sense what you are saying and agree.

Not an overlander just a daily driver that I like to go rock crawling/adventures when I get free time.

I had a 3.5 inch lift on my previous JLUR on 37s and this time round want to do the 2.5 on 38s for the reason I mention (even if only psychological) but also because:

1. Driveline angles slightly better, less chance for vibrations
2. In theory it should feel more planted both on and offroad
3. One inch less height so I can appease the wife lol
4. Don't mind splitting the fenders and trimming the rear pinch seam to keep the 38s tucked in (less poke, better scrub radius) a low base and make up for it with down travel and skids.
5. TBH also something a bit different then normal convention

If it doesn't work I can always go up

Enjoy the build out!