2024 HD Build

HD392

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 18, 2022
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Location
Alabama
Current Rides
2022 Jeep 392 XR
Starting a new build as I picked up the new 2024 392 last Friday. Ton’s, 40/42”s, Double triangulated 4 link, PSC, beadlocks, and much more to come.
 

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Im still surprised that they shoehorned in that center stack display without updating the driver gauges with the new active display. They probably should have just redesigned the entire dash in one go instead of mixing in circles and rectangles.
 
I’ll be at the Great smoky Mountain Jeep Invasion with it in a few weeks. I’ll be stage 1 which will be bumpers, skids, body armor fenders, tire carrier, lift, tires/wheels. The tons and 4 link will happen in stage 2.
 
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Rocker armor is getting mocked up along with frame mounted rocker guards!
 
Oh no what happened? :)
 

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No turning back now
 

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It’s starting to come along. The RockKrawler 2.5” Adventure X kit is installed along with some Bilstein 5100’s. New High Line front fenders and blacked out the 392 emblem for something a little different. More to come as I am trying to have it ready for Great Smoky Mountain Jeep Invasion!
 

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It’s starting to come along. The RockKrawler 2.5” Adventure X kit is installed along with some Bilstein 5100’s. New High Line front fenders and blacked out the 392 emblem for something a little different. More to come as I am trying to have it ready for Great Smoky Mountain Jeep Invasion!
I was thinking of going with the 2.5 Adventure.
Jeep is looking awesome!

I so want to pull the trigger on a 24, but I guess I will stick with my 23.
 
I’m on 40’s and 1 tons and I have to ask… what’s the point of doing 1 tons, 40/42” tires, and a 4-link suspension if you’re doing a 2.5” lift?

A 40” tire simply will not fit unless you only drive it in a straight line at the mall… which is okay if that’s what you’re going for 👍🏻
 
I’m on 40’s and 1 tons and I have to ask… what’s the point of doing 1 tons, 40/42” tires, and a 4-link suspension if you’re doing a 2.5” lift?

A 40” tire simply will not fit unless you only drive it in a straight line at the mall… which is okay if that’s what you’re going for 👍🏻
This is stage 1. The axles will take a few months to build. The tires do clear with the High line fenders front and rear. They are 3”s higher than the factory Rubicon fenders.
 
This is stage 1. The axles will take a few months to build. The tires do clear with the High line fenders front and rear. They are 3”s higher than the factory Rubicon fenders.
Respectfully, you have no idea what you're talking about. I have two 392s (look up my profile and check my posts and pics) and I can garantee you that a 40" tire will not fit under a.2.5" lift and still be safe to drive. Here is your build: tons, 40's or 42's, 2.5" of lift, 4-link, etc... I get that you're just getting started... but the only thing true about the rest of your statement is that the Rubicon fenders are higher!

Now for some facts:
  1. Moving to 40's is a completely different ballgame because there is nothing on a jeep that was designed to handle the size and weight of a 40" tire. Heck, 99% of the aftermarket stuff wasn't designed to handle a 40" tire!
  2. The 392 already comes with a 2" Mopar lift. Swapping it out for a 2.5" lift will only gain ~ 1/2" in height over what you already have.
  3. A 37"" tire will run on a 2.5" lift with some added bump stop.
    1. Heck, you can run it in the stock form, with a 37" tire, if you add some bump or do the High line fenders in the front.
    2. You will have some minor rubbing if you do nothing and keep it on the pavement.
      1. You risk knocking a fender off if you take it off road!
  4. A 4 link would be unnoticeable in your build. Cool, but completely unnoticeable with only 10" of shock travel.
Now for some personal opinion (s):
  • I recommend the dialing in the minimum lift height possible for the type of driving/handling you're looking to do.
    • 4.5" lift, minimum, for 40" tires... and that's for a mallcrawler. Any lower you're going to be riding on your bump stops and I can't imagine that'll be comfortable.
  • 1 tons if you plan on off-roading aggressively 🤠
  • Look at a 4-link when/off you ever start to have binding issues caused by your track bar (side-to-side movement) when you fully articulate your suspension. In my case, my front driveshaft barely clears the side of my front skid and rear driveshaft barely clears a few things.
Lastly, be prepared for some surprises. I am sitting at about 7" of lift and had to swap out my skids, rock rails, and notch my frame just to clear 40's. Now my AAL fender liners don't fit, my wife's 392 got my old Rock hard skids and my NVMS muffler skid (it wouldn't work with my bumper/tire carrier because they share a common body mount), I had to change all my spring rates (6 of 8 springs!) before everything got dialed in. In all, I went about 12,000 over my planned budget, for the swap, due to these surprises... And I knew I would eventually end up on 40's and 1 tons.
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Respectfully, you have no idea what you're talking about. I have two 392s (look up my profile and check my posts and pics) and I can garantee you that a 40" tire will not fit under a.2.5" lift and still be safe to drive. Here is your build: tons, 40's or 42's, 2.5" of lift, 4-link, etc... I get that you're just getting started... but the only thing true about the rest of your statement is that the Rubicon fenders are higher!

Now for some facts:
  1. Moving to 40's is a completely different ballgame because there is nothing on a jeep that was designed to handle the size and weight of a 40" tire. Heck, 99% of the aftermarket stuff wasn't designed to handle a 40" tire!
  2. The 392 already comes with a 2" Mopar lift. Swapping it out for a 2.5" lift will only gain ~ 1/2" in height over what you already have.
  3. A 37"" tire will run on a 2.5" lift with some added bump stop.
    1. Heck, you can run it in the stock form, with a 37" tire, if you add some bump or do the High line fenders in the front.
    2. You will have some minor rubbing if you do nothing and keep it on the pavement.
      1. You risk knocking a fender off if you take it off road!
  4. A 4 link would be unnoticeable in your build. Cool, but completely unnoticeable with only 10" of shock travel.
Now for some personal opinion (s):
  • I recommend the dialing in the minimum lift height possible for the type of driving/handling you're looking to do.
    • 4.5" lift, minimum, for 40" tires... and that's for a mallcrawler. Any lower you're going to be riding on your bump stops and I can't imagine that'll be comfortable.
  • 1 tons if you plan on off-roading aggressively 🤠
  • Look at a 4-link when/off you ever start to have binding issues caused by your track bar (side-to-side movement) when you fully articulate your suspension. In my case, my front driveshaft barely clears the side of my front skid and rear driveshaft barely clears a few things.
Lastly, be prepared for some surprises. I am sitting at about 7" of lift and had to swap out my skids, rock rails, and notch my frame just to clear 40's. Now my AAL fender liners don't fit, my wife's 392 got my old Rock hard skids and my NVMS muffler skid (it wouldn't work with my bumper/tire carrier because they share a common body mount), I had to change all my spring rates (6 of 8 springs!) before everything got dialed in. In all, I went about 12,000 over my planned budget, for the swap, due to these surprises... And I knew I would eventually end up on 40's and 1 tons.
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I appreciate your well thought out and detailed response. I have already built a Gladiator on 40’s with a 3” lift, another on 4.5” lift with 40’s, a diesel with 43’s on 1 tons, and a 22 392 on 38’s with no lift. This is stage 1 and is more of a get the Jeep going while I wait on other parts. I am going with 73” wide Dana 60 front 14 bolt rear, double triangulated 4 link rear, 3 link front with track bar, coil overs, new high clearance inner fender wells as well are already installed along with the high line fender itself. Once the 1 tons come in then I will probably sit closer to 4.5”s total lift and will be wheeling it hard core then.
With the rear high lines I’ll probably cut out a good bit of the inner sheet metal to match the fender flare.
I’ll post some more pictures once it’s on the ground.
Again I appreciate your feed back and not looking for a disagreement but I don’t think I explained well enough that this is just temporary and there will be a lot of other modifications. When I welded on the frame mounted rocker guards I move them back about 3/4” and the inner fender at the lower portion gets cut about 3/4-1” also. It will have 1.75” spacers to also help clear the frame rails when turning. Again this is just temporary until the wider 1 tons get swapped in.
 
Just measured and with the new highline fenders and new highline inner fenders I gained 1 3/8”s at the back bottom of the fender as well.
 

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40’s
 

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I love your jeep! I spent a considerable amount of time drooling over it at the jeep invasion! I ended up buying the motobilt half doors at the show and will be borrowing your inner door “sea deck” on mine!
 

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