2023 JL Hitch

XTRM392

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2022
Messages
6
Reaction score
8
Location
Alberta Canada
Current Rides
Wrangler 392
Can anyone tell me if the Hitch on the JL is capable of handling a weight distribution Hitch?
 
How much weight are you looking to tow? The 392 is rated for 3500lbs and you shouldn’t need a weight distribution hitch for that if the weight is properly balanced
 
Can anyone tell me if the Hitch on the JL is capable of handling a weight distribution Hitch?
I recall that it supports 350 tongue weight. I used a weight (and sway) distribution hitch on the JK and there is no reason why not to on a JL.

BTW, there is no hitch supplied with the Jeep. Only a hitch receiver. You need to purchase your own WD/Sway Control system.

Use a brake controller as well.
 
Last edited:
How much weight are you looking to tow? The 392 is rated for 3500lbs and you shouldn’t need a weight distribution hitch for that if the weight is properly balanced
It’s not only about the weight, but also about which axles take the load. A WD hitch distributes the weight on both rear AND front axles, making for safer drivability.
 
I towed several thousand miles last summer with the tongue weight maxed out at 350 pounds. Other than needing to adjust the headlights down a bit to accommodate for the nit of rear squat, there were no other issues. I did not feel the need for a weight distribution hitch setup, or an anti-sway.

I did install the Gladiator brake controller, and converted my little camp trailer over to electric brakes (and since it had to have new hubs, ones that match the Jeep bolt pattern).

I HIGHLY recommend good trailer brakes. Not that I could not have done it without them, but they made stopping so much better... maybe better than just the unladen Jeep.
 
I towed several thousand miles last summer with the tongue weight maxed out at 350 pounds. Other than needing to adjust the headlights down a bit to accommodate for the nit of rear squat, there were no other issues. I did not feel the need for a weight distribution hitch setup, or an anti-sway.

I did install the Gladiator brake controller, and converted my little camp trailer over to electric brakes (and since it had to have new hubs, ones that match the Jeep bolt pattern).

I HIGHLY recommend good trailer brakes. Not that I could not have done it without them, but they made stopping so much better... maybe better than just the unladen Jeep.
Just my two cents: the fact that the headlights needed adjustment means that the rear was pushed down, even a bit. This also means that the brakes on the front (which are the main ones on any cars) were not as efficient.

The WD system would fix all this. It basically “lifts“ the rear to force more weight on the front axle.

Perhaps this is one of the main reasons Stelantis de-rates the towing capacity in the US vs EU where WD/SC is mandatory.
 
Just my two cents: the fact that the headlights needed adjustment means that the rear was pushed down, even a bit. This also means that the brakes on the front (which are the main ones on any cars) were not as efficient.

The WD system would fix all this. It basically “lifts“ the rear to force more weight on the front axle.

Perhaps this is one of the main reasons Stelantis de-rates the towing capacity in the US vs EU where WD/SC is mandatory.
I do not have all of the measurements available to me right now, but given the distance from the centerline of the rear axle, to the ball mount, versus the distance from the rear axle to the front axle, means that with 350 pounds of hitch weight, about 35 (more or less) get removed from the front wheels for braking, making a WD hitch pretty moot, as I've easily made that back by adding 90 pounds of winch gear out front.

I've never understood the US/EU difference in towing capacities. the Ram 1500 trucks recommend a WD setup for anything over 5k pounds or 500 pounds of hitch weight..... Why does that same standard not apply to the Wrangler? Adding something is stating that loads over 3500 pounds requires a WD hitch would be perfect.

From the Ram owners manual:

1705512079980.png
 
I'll add also that my camp trailer has a lock and roll style articulated hitch, so adding a WD setup was not really an option for me. It was pushing 350 pounds of tongue weight, but was only about 1900 pounds total. The tongue weight became an issue as I kept adding storage and gear on the front, as there was no room to expand to the rear due to a rear door. If I keep this setup, I'll be adding a rear swing out hitch carrier, to be able to move or add gear off the rear bumper, which would allow me to use more of the available weight limit, while actually reducing my lounge weight overall.

If I were towing max weight on-road all the time, I'd probably add a WD setup. I'm considering upgrading my camp setup to something more roomy, and less off-roady. I'm pretty sure it'll be at max everything as I'm trying to make the best use of the available limits, so a WD makes much more sense for that application.
 
The RAM vs Jeep is a different topic.

The WD is not a moot topic with a 350lbs tongue weight. There are some very good videos on YT explaining its benefits. Everybody should watch them to understand how and why a WD/SC system works.

Using one would restore your proper braking , eliminate the need to adjust your headlights, reduce risk of jackknifing, etc. One should advise safer practices, not against.
 
Last edited:
Offroad trailers are much lighter and don’t need, nor would they work with a WD/SC.
 
Thanks for all the great Info, I purchased a NOBO 16.1 Weighing roughly 2900 lbs. dry weight
Adding water and gear I'm assuming with be up around 3600 lbs GTW.
The TW is 325lbs and my Jeep does have a TW rating of 350, I was just told that a WD Hitch with anti sway would be the way to go.
I have never pulled anything with it yet and just not sure how the trailer will pull under full weight without a WD hitch.
I wasn't sure if the Hitch Receiver was stable/strong enough to handle the force a WD hitch would apply to it.
Again I'm totally new to towing and just want to feel safe for myself and everyone else on the road.
 
Thanks for all the great Info, I purchased a NOBO 16.1 Weighing roughly 2900 lbs. dry weight
Adding water and gear I'm assuming with be up around 3600 lbs GTW.
The TW is 325lbs and my Jeep does have a TW rating of 350, I was just told that a WD Hitch with anti sway would be the way to go.
I have never pulled anything with it yet and just not sure how the trailer will pull under full weight without a WD hitch.
I wasn't sure if the Hitch Receiver was stable/strong enough to handle the force a WD hitch would apply to it.
Again I'm totally new to towing and just want to feel safe for myself and everyone else on the road.
The hitch receiver on the Jeep should handle your trailer.

My old JK with my tow:
aaa - 1 (3).jpeg
 
Thanks for all the great Info, I purchased a NOBO 16.1 Weighing roughly 2900 lbs. dry weight
Adding water and gear I'm assuming with be up around 3600 lbs GTW.
The TW is 325lbs and my Jeep does have a TW rating of 350, I was just told that a WD Hitch with anti sway would be the way to go.
I have never pulled anything with it yet and just not sure how the trailer will pull under full weight without a WD hitch.
I wasn't sure if the Hitch Receiver was stable/strong enough to handle the force a WD hitch would apply to it.
Again I'm totally new to towing and just want to feel safe for myself and everyone else on the road.
A bit of info you might find helpful



I use to work for a dealer and we set up trailers and installed hitches all the time, all the info above is what we used as our guides. Curt was our primary supplier for hitch’s and supplies. I have trusted them for all my needs.
2E34AF6F-E423-4833-BB0C-C48F8C916B06.png
 
I have weigh safe hitch. It tells your tongue weight. Just an option to consider.

I have a couple of those as well. But measuring 350 pounds or less was difficult due the way the dial was laid out. I ended up buying a cheap 400 pound bathroom scale, and set a jack on it to pick up the trailer to measure the actual TW as it was more accurate for me.

1705586572394.png
 
I have a couple of those as well. But measuring 350 pounds or less was difficult due the way the dial was laid out. I ended up buying a cheap 400 pound bathroom scale, and set a jack on it to pick up the trailer to measure the actual TW as it was more accurate for me.

View attachment 30320
True for a WD hitch.
For a ball hitch, higher resolution at low end.
 
Thanks for all the info guys, I was looking at the Equalizer WD and Anti Sway Hitch but its a bit pricey for what I really need I think.
Good to know that whichever Hitch i go with the Jeep with be able to handle it with no issues.
 
The hitch receiver on the Jeep should handle your trailer.

My old JK with my tow:
View attachment 30308
Wow, I would never imagine a jeep being capable of pulling a large trailer like that..Sweet.
How was it on the Hwy to Pull? did you use a WD Hitch or just pull from the Normal Ball setup?
What's the weight on your trailer, I bet it's a big difference in pulling from your JK to Your 392.
Anyways nice setup
 
Wow, I would never imagine a jeep being capable of pulling a large trailer like that..Sweet.
How was it on the Hwy to Pull? did you use a WD Hitch or just pull from the Normal Ball setup?
What's the weight on your trailer, I bet it's a big difference in pulling from your JK to Your 392.
Anyways nice setup
Airstreams are all aluminum thus very light. My 2010 is 3500# dry.

I always use WD/SC + brake controller when towing. Here's a similar set-up like mine: https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Reese/RP66083.html?

The JK was fine on flat terrain and modest inclines. However in the SW we have massive, never-ending grades, so I was right there on the slow line with the 18 wheelers. Haven't towed with the 392 yet, but this is one of the reasons for which we got it - to go places with the Jeep and the Airstream.
 
Back
Top